Well today I got down to the warehouse to visit my new-to-me 1988 Grady 190 Tournament. One of the projects on my list before splashing it for the first time is to replace the brass thru-hull transom drain tubes. All of my past boats have been Whaler's and they like Grady-White have brass thru-hull transom fittings, and they are know to fail causing the transom to rot. When looking at Grady's many warned me to have the transom inspected as Grady's have prevalent transom failures. I now can understand why it can be more of a problem with Grady's. Unlike Whaler, Grady-White does not use O-rings or any sealant between the flared ends of the drain tube and the gelcoat to seal it against water infiltration. They also do not use any sealant around the drain tube inside the transom. This is a problem because if the flared end ever fails (the most common failure point), it exposes the wood core of the transom to water. From there the wood swells and forces the flared ends to fail completely. Now the wood is going to get really wet. As it happened, there was a Grady-White 192 Tournament just down for my 190 with failed thru-hulls and you can see the wood core becoming exposed. This is going a be a problem if not unattended to.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1813_zps3f5f554d.jpg?t=1363478062
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1814_zps89d3b792.jpg?t=1363478076
Fortunately, My boat's transom checked out fine on the inspection. I am sure spending it's life only in freshwater and on a trailer, not sitting in the water helped the lifespan of the tubes. That said, like all of my other boats I just wanted to redo mine to be sure they were sealed tight and were not perforated inside the tube. It also gives you an opportunity to get a peek at the condition of the wood core.
I figured since I was going to do this process and others will likely be doing it to, I may as well fully document it. I am sure someone will find it helpful.
So for the project you are going to need the following:
1) Moeller Drain Tube Flaring tool. You will then need to get a 6 or 7 inch x 1/2 bolt to get the extra length needed to get through the transom.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=107434
2) I just bought two 14" Moeller Drain Tubes. Expect to waste some on redo's if it's your first time.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=42845
3) Rubber O-Rings
Sourced at Home-Depot
4) A tube of 3m 4200
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=7091
First step is to remove the old tube. I use a large flat bladed screw driver and a hammer to work the flared end of the tube in toward the center. Once it is worked in, you need to them hammer it out the other side. This can be a process if you have a really bedding in tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1774_zps56a006d1.jpg?t=1363477779
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1775_zps9ebdc084.jpg?t=1363477797
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1776_zpsfbfbe65d.jpg?t=1363477793
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1778_zps1ccc7d17.jpg?t=1363477805
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1809_zps9476a567.jpg?t=1363478035
Now that the out tube is knocked out, check the wood core. Mine was dry and rock solid. Relieved!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1780_zpsd59f0d2f.jpg?t=1363477818
Next step is get the first flared end. I measured and cut (with a tubing cutter) a rough length.
Now to flare. To get the brass tube to flare and flare without splitting, you have to anneal brass. I use a plumbers torch myself and get the tube GLOWING red hot and quence it in water.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1784_zpsaaea849d.jpg?t=1363477838
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1785_zpsf3fefac9.jpg?t=1363477858
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1786_zpsefd8284c.jpg?t=1363477864
Once quenced you, use the flaring tool set up with one of the die's facing in and the other flipped over to the flat side. This works force the die into the other end to start the flare on the other end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1791_zpsbfe32c53.jpg?t=1363477880
Tighten it down and keep going until the one end is FULLY flared.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1792_zps196f7582.jpg?t=1363477898
Now that you have a flared end, put an o-ring on the flared end and dry if the tube into the transom.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1794_zps11a54e96.jpg?t=1363477916
Once in, install 2 O-rings on the other end. This will give you the exact length you need to accept a flare on the other end. Mark the tube
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1798_zps6ef9053e.jpg?t=1363477950
Cut the tube with your tubing cutter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1799_zps9aa7712e.jpg?t=1363477953
Now anneal the other end to flare it (repeat the process above).
Installing the new tube.
I like to coat the entire wood core with 3m 4200 prior to putting the new tube in. You really do not need to do this but, I like it because it seals the wood and will keep it from ever getting wet, ever if there is a failure. The only problem is, if you have to take the tube out later down the road, it takes a lot more hammering to get it out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1800_zps00533a38.jpg?t=1363477964
Now I put a bead of 4200 along the flare and install an o-ring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1802_zpsd3cdb807.jpg?t=1363477978
Now, force the tube back into the hole. To get it all the way in you may have to put a die from the flaring tool into the end and hammer it through. Once close to all the way through, I install another bead of 4200 in front o-ring to provide a perfect seal against the gelcoat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1803_zps88e92095.jpg?t=1363477989
Now on the other end, install a bead of 4200 around the tube and the gelcoat. Install an o-ring and put another light bead around the front of the o-ring. Install the die on the inside, run the bolt through, put the nut on the other side to secure both dies in place. Now, start turning your wrenches. The inside will start to flare. Keep going until you get a complete flare and plenty of squeeze out of 4200 to ensure a water tight seal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1804_zps6115cd26.jpg?t=1363477990
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1805_zps89c65f98.jpg?t=1363478005
Besure not to over-tighten. If you do, you will force the o-ring out.
Remove the bolt and dies and clean the squeeze out of 4200 up with acetone. You are now done and should have a sealed tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1807_zps5f8ca286.jpg?t=1363478022
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1811_zpse36aaf91.jpg?t=1363478051
Now that this is done....I am one step closer to the water. Can not wait to get my first Grady on the water. Come one Spring!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1812_zps2ba36520.jpg?t=1363478066
Hope this helps..
Cheers,
Jeff
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1813_zps3f5f554d.jpg?t=1363478062
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1814_zps89d3b792.jpg?t=1363478076
Fortunately, My boat's transom checked out fine on the inspection. I am sure spending it's life only in freshwater and on a trailer, not sitting in the water helped the lifespan of the tubes. That said, like all of my other boats I just wanted to redo mine to be sure they were sealed tight and were not perforated inside the tube. It also gives you an opportunity to get a peek at the condition of the wood core.
I figured since I was going to do this process and others will likely be doing it to, I may as well fully document it. I am sure someone will find it helpful.
So for the project you are going to need the following:
1) Moeller Drain Tube Flaring tool. You will then need to get a 6 or 7 inch x 1/2 bolt to get the extra length needed to get through the transom.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=107434
2) I just bought two 14" Moeller Drain Tubes. Expect to waste some on redo's if it's your first time.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=42845
3) Rubber O-Rings
Sourced at Home-Depot
4) A tube of 3m 4200
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?process=checkout&part=7091
First step is to remove the old tube. I use a large flat bladed screw driver and a hammer to work the flared end of the tube in toward the center. Once it is worked in, you need to them hammer it out the other side. This can be a process if you have a really bedding in tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1774_zps56a006d1.jpg?t=1363477779
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1775_zps9ebdc084.jpg?t=1363477797
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1776_zpsfbfbe65d.jpg?t=1363477793
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1778_zps1ccc7d17.jpg?t=1363477805
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1809_zps9476a567.jpg?t=1363478035
Now that the out tube is knocked out, check the wood core. Mine was dry and rock solid. Relieved!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1780_zpsd59f0d2f.jpg?t=1363477818
Next step is get the first flared end. I measured and cut (with a tubing cutter) a rough length.
Now to flare. To get the brass tube to flare and flare without splitting, you have to anneal brass. I use a plumbers torch myself and get the tube GLOWING red hot and quence it in water.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1784_zpsaaea849d.jpg?t=1363477838
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1785_zpsf3fefac9.jpg?t=1363477858
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1786_zpsefd8284c.jpg?t=1363477864
Once quenced you, use the flaring tool set up with one of the die's facing in and the other flipped over to the flat side. This works force the die into the other end to start the flare on the other end.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1791_zpsbfe32c53.jpg?t=1363477880
Tighten it down and keep going until the one end is FULLY flared.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1792_zps196f7582.jpg?t=1363477898
Now that you have a flared end, put an o-ring on the flared end and dry if the tube into the transom.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1794_zps11a54e96.jpg?t=1363477916
Once in, install 2 O-rings on the other end. This will give you the exact length you need to accept a flare on the other end. Mark the tube
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1798_zps6ef9053e.jpg?t=1363477950
Cut the tube with your tubing cutter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1799_zps9aa7712e.jpg?t=1363477953
Now anneal the other end to flare it (repeat the process above).
Installing the new tube.
I like to coat the entire wood core with 3m 4200 prior to putting the new tube in. You really do not need to do this but, I like it because it seals the wood and will keep it from ever getting wet, ever if there is a failure. The only problem is, if you have to take the tube out later down the road, it takes a lot more hammering to get it out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1800_zps00533a38.jpg?t=1363477964
Now I put a bead of 4200 along the flare and install an o-ring.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1802_zpsd3cdb807.jpg?t=1363477978
Now, force the tube back into the hole. To get it all the way in you may have to put a die from the flaring tool into the end and hammer it through. Once close to all the way through, I install another bead of 4200 in front o-ring to provide a perfect seal against the gelcoat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1803_zps88e92095.jpg?t=1363477989
Now on the other end, install a bead of 4200 around the tube and the gelcoat. Install an o-ring and put another light bead around the front of the o-ring. Install the die on the inside, run the bolt through, put the nut on the other side to secure both dies in place. Now, start turning your wrenches. The inside will start to flare. Keep going until you get a complete flare and plenty of squeeze out of 4200 to ensure a water tight seal.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1804_zps6115cd26.jpg?t=1363477990
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1805_zps89c65f98.jpg?t=1363478005
Besure not to over-tighten. If you do, you will force the o-ring out.
Remove the bolt and dies and clean the squeeze out of 4200 up with acetone. You are now done and should have a sealed tube.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1807_zps5f8ca286.jpg?t=1363478022
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1811_zpse36aaf91.jpg?t=1363478051
Now that this is done....I am one step closer to the water. Can not wait to get my first Grady on the water. Come one Spring!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...n tubes/DSC_1812_zps2ba36520.jpg?t=1363478066
Hope this helps..
Cheers,
Jeff