Yamaha Corrosion F250

Hi,
Had my 2 engines scoped today. Tech indicated there was corrosion starting but this year would be fine. He indicated I should considering having both done over next winter, possibly later depending on how they look at the end of the year.
I'm waiting for the pics but assuming he is on the mark, I'd like to start saving and assembling my position of a discussion with Yamaha.
I've run 7 seasons (entering number 8 this year), approx 450 hours. 2005 year engines on a 2006 hull, didn't buy until early 2007.

I'm looking for input how to proceed from anyone that has successfully been through this. I understand the parts have been offered at a lower price than normal. I'd like to understand what the parts cost per motor, the parts list (if you have), the discount and anything else Yamaha is doing to make this easier to swallow. I'd also like to know what the labor and all in charge is for the entire repair. I'd like to know if there is anything else I should do to the motors at this time? Should have take the engines off the boat to look at the transom as well as ensure they are resealed up (assuming all is ok)?

Thanks....

Hi,

Thanks for the input guys. I think I have a few months to enjoy my boat this season and then it will be time to do the rebuild.

My understanding:
This issue can happen to pre-mid 2006 outboards, largely F225 and F250s. These motors are very similar in design and thermal profile. There was a coating change in mid 2006 that hopefully will make the parts more robust, but not sure if this will make them bulletproof but it should be sufficient for balance of the lifecycle of my motor. In the end, time will tell. I understand it is only a saltwater issue and it is more time dependent (versus hours on the motor). I don't think other motors are affected as much, probably since these run cooler. Flushing after each use does nothing for this issue. This problem is in the exhaust and by design, this is a dry exhaust. Reports indicate the problem is worse in areas with warmer water, thus engines run in Florida are seeing it more frequently than engines run in colder Maine water.

Flushing is important as well as routine maintenance for the (4) internal block zincs (most DIYers may not know these exist and they need to be changed). Flushing should be done after every use in saltwater, when the motor is warm. I would say best to do it as soon as you dock. I always do this because I always am cleaning fish or putting things away in parallel. You want the engines warm so the thermostats are open and the flush water rinses the t-stat housing. If cold, the t-stat closes and even though you flush, the water does not get behind the t-stats and corrosion can occur here over time. If breached (and I've read several reports of this happening) salt water sprays everywhere under the cowling and you risk doing a lot of damage.

Anyone that has these engines should have the lowers dropped every year or two (prob every year if older) to baseline the engines and watch for corrosion. They use a camera on a flexible shaft and basically scope the inside. This is not 100% conclusive, the best way is to pull the powerhead, but this is not practical. I believe once the corrosion starts, the process will speed up as less of the coating is left in place. Left unchecked or let gone too far, you will trash the power head and you will require a much larger repair - like $6K more.

I'm told the repair is approx. $2.8-3.0K per engine (parts/labor), with $1.2K (parts only). I don't believe this covers the other suggested parts (oil pump, speedy shaft sleeves, (4) internal zincs, t-stat area). If you get all the suggested parts it is near $1600 (estimate) for the parts only. So my guess you are in the $3.7Kish range for all parts and labor. Add all the incidentals and my guess is $4K a pop all-in.

Look, I know my motors are 2005 models and this is 2014. That being said, the boat didn't see the water until spring of 2007 as it was a non-current model. I have 7 full New England seasons (mid May to mid Sept most years) with 450 total hours on them. I religiously flushed the engines after every use as the boat is slipped. My 2006 model boat is pristine as I am super anal keeping the boat perfect. It is 100% dealer maintained with money not being an object. If the boat or engines needed anything - they got it.
In addition, I do a lot of extra work on the boat. Personally, I believe there should be some help from Yamaha on this repair. I'm not expecting everything to be covered, but if it is all on me I will not be a happy man.

Anyone that has other info or wishes to correct my understanding - fire away.

I agree you look pretty good there and that you need to monitor. It has started, but is early in the cycle.

My understanding is this is a progressive condition that it will get worse overtime as more of the coating is affected. Best to have your engines scoped to establish a baseline and then periodically repeat to see how things are progressing. I don't think there is much data out there how fast it occurs or once it starts does the condition worsen (I would think so) as more of the coating is gone. So it could start slow, but once started pick up in intensity up to the point you really damage the power head if not acted upon.