Dual Battery Switch on Adventure 208

Putting a good battery in parallel with a dead (unknown condition) battery by switching to "both" is not a good idea. If it is shorted you could end up with high current loads and really cause some major problems. Try charging the dead battery with an external charger before using it. If it recovers, the "both" position should charge both, but a better idea is to use an isolator to charge both separately. Most Yamahas have a separate lead available to charge a second battery, regardless of the switch position. That rigging is more complicated than can be explained simply here.

Run on "1" only...get battery "2" checked, and if it's dead, replace it. Don't take a chance on getting stuck.

Jonah said:

Hello,

I'm new to boating, and recently purchased a 1996 Adventure 208. It has two batteries under one of the stern seats, and a round switch marked "Off" on the bottom, "1" on the left, "Both" on the top, and "2" on the right. (I've read that I should never move the switch to the 'off' position which the motor is running.)

Battery 2 is pretty dead. It's so dead that if I start the motor on "1" or "Both", and then switch to "2" while the motor is running, my gauges all turn off, and I can't even adjust my trim. So here's my question: can I run the boat on "Both" (so that all of my electronics work), and will that slowly re-charge Battery 2? Or do I need to have the switch on "2" in order to re-charge Battery 2?

Thanks!

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Something is not right. Your electronics should work on either batter 1 or 2 or both assuming the batteries are not dead. If battery 2 is dead but your electronics don't work when the selector is set to battery 1 then something is broken or wired incorrectly. The feed for the accessories buss is wired to the output of the battery switch. That way, they are powered using 1 or 2 or both.
Here is what to do: Make sure that there is a battery cable connecting the negatives of battery one to battery 2. Often this cable is left unconnected.
Assuming battery 1 is good, start on 1, run for 10 minutes and then switch to both. The motor or and electronics should still work.
After running either at speed or at a fast idle (1200 rev or so) switch to 2. If the motor or electronics die, you either have a bad battery or a wiring/battery switch issue. If everything works on 2, run for 10 minutes more and turn off the motor. With the battery switch on 2, try to start the motor. If you can't crank the motor either the battery is kaput or as mentioned there is a wiring issue.
If you need to buy a new battery, it is important to match it to the existing battery.
Let us know what you find.

If it's a lead acid battery, don't forget to check the water level in it. Top it off if necessary and then charge it. You might be able to save it.

The battery in my lawn tractor went dead a few years ago. After adding distilled water to each cell and fully charging it, it's been going strong every since.

I would think once started, all electronics (gauges, trim, etc.) would still work with a dead battery as long as your alternator is working. I am no expect so maybe I am wrong? If your battery 2 ground wire was corroded or not connected well, that may cause the problem. Try taking battery connections off, clean up with a wire brush, and reconnect. If your gauges have a volt meter, check the voltage of each battery one at a time (switch 1, then 2). They should be around 12 volts when not running. When running at 1000+ rpm, you should get 13+ volts if your alternator is working.

i agree with seasick. check the wiring of the batteries and make sure you understand them and put a trickle charger on #2.

also #2 may be a deep cycle "house" battery in which case it will never be able to start your motor even fully charged. a deep cycle is intended to power accessories when the motor is not running. it discharges slowly but it has minimal "cranking amps" to start a motor,

be sure you have figure this out before any more testing while running the motor. if battery #2 is not connected and you switch the battery to #2 while running you could fry your outboard electronics very quickly.

Jonah said:

Captnobs said:

I would think once started, all electronics (gauges, trim, etc.) would still work with a dead battery as long as your alternator is working. I am no expect so maybe I am wrong? If your battery 2 ground wire was corroded or not connected well, that may cause the problem. Try taking battery connections off, clean up with a wire brush, and reconnect. If your gauges have a volt meter, check the voltage of each battery one at a time (switch 1, then 2). They should be around 12 volts when not running. When running at 1000+ rpm, you should get 13+ volts if your alternator is working.

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Thanks Captnobs. This raises another good question: if the motor is running, what does it matter that Battery 2 is a deep-cycle? Why doesn't the alternator power the accessories just fine? You also raise a good point about the ground wire on Battery 2. In fact, when I took the batteries out, I noticed that the negative terminal on Battery 2 did not have a normal grounding wire, but instead was wired directly to the negative terminal on Battery 1. Battery 1 did have a grounding wire coming off of its negative terminal. (I should have taken a picture. Let me know if this is clear.) Is it normal for a second battery to share the grounding wire of the first battery?

Or, maybe this is, as I though above, an issue of to which battery each accessory is directly wired.

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The wiring is correct. Battery two can have only one cable, connected to battery 1 neg. The cable needs to be a regular heavy gauge. Battery one may have three cables, one large gauge to the motor, one large gauge to battery 2 and one smaller gauge that connects to the fuse block. Make sure the cable connecting both batteries is the correct size and not corroded.
I would assume that a deep cycle battery would start the motor if everything else was in order.
Whether or not the 500CCA for battery 2 is enough is a question but it should be if fully charged and all cabling is correct.
My trips are relatively short, usually about 40 minutes to the destination and then a few hours of navigating between fishing spots.
I use one battery for the out trip (I randomly alternate which one that is) and I often switch to BOTH for the trip home. That tops off both batteries. I have been doing this for a long time and my last set of batteries ran 7 years before one started to show signs of weakness.

Jonah said:

seasick said:

The wiring is correct. Battery two can have only one cable, connected to battery 1 neg. The cable needs to be a regular heavy gauge. Battery one may have three cables, one large gauge to the motor, one large gauge to battery 2 and one smaller gauge that connects to the fuse block. Make sure the cable connecting both batteries is the correct size and not corroded.
I would assume that a deep cycle battery would start the motor if everything else was in order.
Whether or not the 500CCA for battery 2 is enough is a question but it should be if fully charged and all cabling is correct.
My trips are relatively short, usually about 40 minutes to the destination and then a few hours of navigating between fishing spots.
I use one battery for the out trip (I randomly alternate which one that is) and I often switch to BOTH for the trip home. That tops off both batteries. I have been doing this for a long time and my last set of batteries ran 7 years before one started to show signs of weakness.

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Thanks seasick. I wonder if you have any thoughts on my second-to-last post, above? About why the accessories don't work on Battery #2?

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There are a few possibilities.
The first is that the battery is dead or very run down. Many new electronics will not power up on low voltages. A voltmeter at the electronics or fuse block should identify that issue

It is also possible that your battery switch or the cable from battery 2 that connects to it is bad. That is also pretty easy to test. Switch to battery 2 and connect a voltmeter or a test lamp to battery 2 ground and the OUTPUT of the battery switch. There should be voltage. If not, measure the input terminal for battery 2 at the switch. If no or low voltage, check the voltage at the battery itself. In addition measure the voltage between the pos term of battery 2 and the negative term of both 1 and 2. They should be the same, if not there is a problem with one cable that ties the two negatives together.

For your problems, it should be quite easy to identify the problem.
Note that for problems like yours, I prefer a test lamp (that device with a pointed tip and a ground wire ) over a digital voltmeter. The lamp draws a bit of current whereas the digital meter draws very little. The extra draw helps locates bad connections that may have a lot of resistance and therefore voltage drop.

Not to sound like a broken record double check that all battery terminal connections are clean and tight.
In my opinion the average battery can expected to last 4-5 years at best and a weak battery can shorten the life of a starter.
For charging and testing a drained battery I use an old Sears battery charger I bought some 30 years ago. It looks like hell but works great! What I like about it is its fully automatic. I'll flip the switch to 10 amps and walk away. Next morning I'll check on it. If its showing 12-13 volts good, but it has another trick, if the battery took the charge and is good it will beep once every seven seconds. If its bad you're greeted with beep, beep, beep, etc.... not what you want to hear but it removes doubt on it's condition.
I took a look on Sears site, wow way to many choices but upon reading the full description this one looks to do same thing.
http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-6 ... ockType=G9

For winter storage of batteries I remove the boat batteries and set them on a block of wood,(not on the floor) I'll then hook up a "Battery Tender" and every few days rotate them out.
http://www.amazon.com/Deltran-Battery-T ... us+charger
I use this one (Plus) for the bigger batteries and the Battery tender Jr for my motorcycles and tractors.Those have leads permanently hooked up to plug into.
Never hook up a manual charger and walk away for any length of time because you run the risk of cooking the battery.
Get a battery tender plus. Its fully automatic, affordable, everyone I know with collector cars and boats use that model like me and no one I know would ever part with it.
Get it and next spring you'll thank me!