What type of livewell pump do I need?

I use the RULE pumps they do fail. But if you call them they will send you a new one? Three year warranty

I think the original pump screwed directly on top of the seacock. Thats how ours was anyhow. We mounted a Jabsco Cyclone on the bulkhead. Its quiet, smooth, and is off the seacock. No issues in 2+ years. Great pump.

HBSteve, I've also acquired the jabsco cyclone, which has a stainless pump housing and 3/4 NPT input and outputs. Looking forward to having a better arrangement than the OEM mounted plastic pump, will be installing this summer.

Did you run new hosing to your live well, or did you find 3/4 NPT to 1 1/8" hose adapter? Our boat is a 2002 and it looks like the installed hose from the pump to the live well is 1 1/8", which is a pretty odd size for fittings.

Bob.

We ran a new hose from the seacock to the pump then adapted from the pump to the existing hose that ran to the livewell. The existing hose looked fine and I can't imagine the job of trying to get a new hose to the livewell. We mounted the pump on the bulkhead forward of the seacock. It's worked great. Fairly easy install too. You'll really like it.

So here's the full-photo, no holds barred, my BS opinion follow up to this thread, probably relevant to bait tank conversion considered for any 265, 282, or larger Grady Model

Pump is Jabsco 50840 Low Pressure 12volt pump (can be had just about any marine retailer or online)
Around 1ft of 1 1/8" wire reinforced wet exhaust grade tubing
3x 3/4NPT to 1 1/8" hose adapters (this is a weird size, I couldn't find bronze, but found plastic via MarineEast.com)
6x 316 stainless hose clamps (good opportunity to go from single factory clamps to doubled up, don't re-use the old clamps)
various electrical connections (adhesive lined shrink tube style preferred)
In the 282 variety, 30ft of 10ga orange and 30ft of 10ga black tinned wire

You'll need to bulkhead mount it because the pump is a beast (heavy)
In a 282 you'll have to rotate the pump housing so the out put is pointing in the right direction
And then because of rotating the pump housing you'll need a mounting plate to offset the pump from the bulkhead
The factory fuse and wiring are too small, so you'll need to pull new 10ga wire and ground (don't attempt to break into the factory wiring bundle)
Pull a string first, and then when you pull your new wire through, pull a new string and leave it there with the ends neatly in a convenient spot at the end of the rigging trunk

You're going to be doing bilge yoga for a good while, and your camera (or phone) should be used liberally to track what goes where

Shark, that's SO MUCH better than having the pump attached directly to the seacock. Honestly, I never understood why that was done to begin with. It's a much safer/secure installation having the pump on a bulkhead.

Rumford... take note to where Shark said "fiber reinforced" plastic fitting. Use ONLY bronze or fiber-reinforced plastic (such as Forepsar Marelon). DO NOT be tempted to save a few bucks and use PVC - don't use SS, either.

wouldn't you want the hose to go up past the water line on the outside of the boat to stop any siphoning action? My hose comes out of the seacock up and down onto the pump, stops the flow it theirs a leak.

Freddy I have to admit I don't know enough about boat plumbing to fully grasp what you're saying about siphoning.

On the 282, both the raw water wash down pump and livewell pump are fed by high speed teardrop strainers on the bottom of the boat . . . aka they're basically ram-fed if the boat is moving forward. Enough so that if the seacock is open for the livewell (oem or my setup), the livewell will try to fill itself with water.

Back to what I don't know . . . All I know is that the Grady factory setup for the washdown pump seems to work fine, so I've nearly copied that arrangement for the livewell pump. I did go with the biggest hoses I could find adapters for, and I'll let everyone know how that plays out once the boat is launched in April.