installing radio on grady

Your post title says "installing", but the content talks about it already being installed? I'll respond, below, based on it already being installed because that's what it sounds like. In general, though, most things should not be installed direct to the battery. Only things like bilge pumps and ECM's, along with some stereos... but just the "station memory" feed.

A lot of this (well, ALL of this), depends on how everything is wired and whether or not anything has been altered over the years. Best way to check is to do it. Since it's your boat, what happens when you leave the key in the OFF position? Does your key turn one click CCW? Some key switches have an accessory position. At the very least, when you turn the key to ON, you are turning on more "things", such as gauges for example.

Often times, fuel pumps only run for a few seconds with the initial turn of the key, then they turn off and won't run again till the engine starts. I have no idea how it is on whatever engine you have. Like above, though, it's easy enough for you to check.

Some key switches have an ACC position... turning the key CCW. Again, check that.

To the best of my knowledge, a fuel pump should NOT run (continuously) unless the engine is running. This is a safety thing to avoid emptying your fuel tank into the bilge and the water. But, it's VERY easy to check... Just do it! Then you'll know 100% for sure. Even if it's not "supposed" to, there's always the question of what a PO did. And, of course, how the radio was wired up - which is hard to say on an X-year old boat (again, possibly changes along the way). But the same way to find out holds true... Do it!

The way it "should" work... able to hear radio without activating other accessories or gauges, etc. But I have seen some boats wired such that it is not the case. But you wouldn't want the radio to be able to be turned on without doing something with the key, otherwise it could be left on. Just like your car.

Your welcome.

cool change said:

I just thought when u hear the fuel pump go on, you had to start the boat ,or the pump will always run and burn out.

Click to expand...

So, in contrast to how you start your boat, I turn the key to ON and then ALWAYS wait till I hear the pump stop - on any and every boat that I can hear it run. I'm not saying your way is bad - not at all - just making note of a difference to better explain things.

The Kenwood radio I installed, and most radios have 2 positive leads for positive power hookup.
The main lead powers the radio for normal use and the other will provide power to maintain presets for time and audio. It has minimal draw.
The main lead can be hooked to the panel carrying power from the battery switch so that it is killed with everything else. The second lead needs to be hooked directly to the battery (before the battery switch) like the auto bilge pump.
Note both leads have to be fused and fused close to the power source.
The main power IMO would not involve the ignition keyed switch. I'd connect to the busbar that provides power the the anchor light.
Mike

Just adding my 2 cents worth....my 2003 Gulfstream has a mechanical pump that runs off the engine. There isn't an electric fuel pump in the tank hence the primer bulb. The radio does run with just the battery switch on-key off.
Hope this helps.

Bumpye said:

Just adding my 2 cents worth....my 2003 Gulfstream has a mechanical pump that runs off the engine. There isn't an electric fuel pump in the tank hence the primer bulb. The radio does run with just the battery switch on-key off.
Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Just for your own future reference, there should still be a high pressure fuel pump, in addition to the LP pumps that feed the HP pump - usually located right on the engine. This is, of course, making an assumption about you NOT having a dinosaur of an engine! :mrgreen:

As stated the pump should not continue to run unless the pressure switch was bad or leaking, the pump should prime and stop when it gets to pressure limit. I wired my radio to its own on/off switch with the accessory. Works better than wiring it to the ignition switch, on some engines the hours meter keeps ticking with the key in ON pos..