slow pee stream coming from motor

cool change

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hello all... soo.. I hook up my earmuffs to my motor, because i just put in a new water pump and i wanted to test it before i go in the water.. I turn on the hose with muffs on ,and start engine . I notice the pee stream took alittle time to come out about 15 to 20 seconds [is that ok]... when it did start to pee the stream was alittle weaker than when the boat is in the water.. Is that normal or should the stream be just as strong as when the boat is in the water.. pressure on my hose is good.. my motor is a yamaha 200 V6 2 stroke OX-66 as always thank u
 

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The time it took to start peeing is NOT abnormal. Sometime it will start much quicker, but what you experienced is not at all out of the ordinary.

When you say you have good pressure... can you quantify that? Both pressure and GPM? For example, I have approx 72PSI and 9GPM at my hose.
However, no hose can supply as much water as actually being in the water.
 

cool change

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I really dont know the exact water pressure, but it seems strong when it comes out of the hose
 

DennisG01

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That's OK. GPM is more important, anyways. You can figure that out real easily by timing how long it takes to fill a 5-gallon bucket But if you wanted to know your pressure, you can get a cheap gauge at just about any hardware store and screw it onto your outside spigot.
 

cool change

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presure seems ok.. im more concerned with the slow peeing
 

seasick

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On muffs, my motor takes about that long for the pee stream to start.
 

cool change

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Hi seasick.... but is the pee stream alittle weak.. i saw some other engines on muffs and stream seem to be stronger
 

Ron Semenza

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I have a Yamaha 200HPDI. I was told not to use muffs by Dealer shop. I use a small cattle tank and get a good stream right away.
 

seasick

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cool change said:
Hi seasick.... but is the pee stream alittle weak.. i saw some other engines on muffs and stream seem to be stronger

I can't really say. The stream on muffs makes an arc just like when in the water. It might be a tad weaker but not by a lot.
Note that if there is pretty decent water pressure and volume, the pee stream will start even with the motor off but it may take a while for it to start. If you start the motor and don't see the stream withing 30 seconds, you should shut off the motor.
 

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Cool, it's going to be extremely hard to compare your pee stream to any of ours without quantitative information. Otherwise, we're just comparing opinions. That's I why I offered the ways to check, especially, GPM. As I mentioned, though, it's not uncommon AT ALL to have a weaker stream on a hose, compared to in the water.

Regardless of that, the most important things are:

- How does it pee on YOUR hose now, compared to before the impeller change.
- Was there any scoring on the housing/plate and what was the condition of the old impeller?
- How does it pee when in the water, now? If it's weaker in the water, then something went amiss during the install.

You have to compare your setup to your setup.

Also... have you tried again? Maybe you didn't have the hose on full blast or there was a kink.
 

cool change

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pressure in hose was good, no kinks, when i changed water pump impeller and internal parts were in decent shape.. Im putting her in the water friday, im praying stream is strong, if not :huh
 

langski93

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I have the exact motor as you. My motor suffered weak stream (not late stream) both in and out of the water. Eventually it cost me a total rebuild. I a have a tenuous understanding, but talk to a good mechanic! There is a "poppet valve" that regulates stream at idle and underway. More rpms mean more heat by motor, means more powerful evacuation of water through motor, so cooler water is passing through very fast. Slow rpms will get you a slower "weaker" stream as its slowing water thru put, but motor not generating same amount of heat. I have always used muffs in tandem with rinse hose at mid engine. There is and should always be a stream present before firing up engine. I was instructed not to try and blast too much garden hose pressure through motor.

If you are in NH or close by I can recommend a very good mechanic. I've paid for his retirement.

langski
 

seasick

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langski93 said:
I have the exact motor as you. My motor suffered weak stream (not late stream) both in and out of the water. Eventually it cost me a total rebuild. I a have a tenuous understanding, but talk to a good mechanic! There is a "poppet valve" that regulates stream at idle and underway. More rpms mean more heat by motor, means more powerful evacuation of water through motor, so cooler water is passing through very fast. Slow rpms will get you a slower "weaker" stream as its slowing water thru put, but motor not generating same amount of heat. I have always used muffs in tandem with rinse hose at mid engine. There is and should always be a stream present before firing up engine. I was instructed not to try and blast too much garden hose pressure through motor.

If you are in NH or close by I can recommend a very good mechanic. I've paid for his retirement.

langski

If your stream was weak but you didn't overheat ( assuming your alarm worked) than the weak stream had nothing to do with the failure of the powerhead. No water at all could do a lot of damage since the sensor needs some water to alert to high water temps. In plain air it will eventually trip but that takes a while and a really hot motor.
You can have a weak pee stream but plenty of cooling water. In theory, you could have a strong pee stream but a blockage in a cooling chamber. Point is that the pee stream by itself does not tell the whole story.
The poppet valve is an interesting item. It can be in three different states: Closed, open or partially open. Normally at lower revs it is closed and at higher water pressure it opens to allow some water to bypass the heads to reduce excessive water pressure. If it is stuck open, the motor may overheat at lower revs or when the water pump is weak. In those cases, once again, assuming the overheat alarm is working, an alarm will sound.
If the valve sticks closed, it can affect the water pump due to excessive back pressure but that case is rarer than it getting stuck open.
One of the main causes of cooling issues other than weak pumps is crud buildup, often salts, in the cooling chambers. It is wise to inspect the t-stats and the t-stats housings for excessive buildup. Buildup can lead to local hot spots but may not trigger the alarms. Best measure to reduce buildup is fresh water flushing after every outing.
 

cool change

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thank u guys ,but here is the whole story... boat ran beautiful all of summer and fall. took her out and winterized her. came spring i changed water pump with yamaha kit ,changed poppit valve and spring and the 2 thermostats .. started her up with the muffs, and got slow stream.. Is there somrthing i did wrong when i changed the water pump ?? thanks
 

seasick

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cool change said:
thank u guys ,but here is the whole story... boat ran beautiful all of summer and fall. took her out and winterized her. came spring i changed water pump with yamaha kit ,changed poppit valve and spring and the 2 thermostats .. started her up with the muffs, and got slow stream.. Is there somrthing i did wrong when i changed the water pump ?? thanks
Possibly you did something wrong. Common mistakes are : wrong impeller kit, impeller preloaded in the wrong direction( can cause early failure). poppet installed backwards. water tube between power head and LU installed wrong or a missing gasket.
All that said, nothing may be wrong, you may have low water pressure and/or volume. When you turn on the water with the motor not running does water come out of the pee stream, prop hub, LU vents?
 

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cool change said:
thank u guys ,but here is the whole story... boat ran beautiful all of summer and fall. took her out and winterized her. came spring i changed water pump with yamaha kit ,changed poppit valve and spring and the 2 thermostats .. started her up with the muffs, and got slow stream.. Is there somrthing i did wrong when i changed the water pump ?? thanks

Possibly. But you'd know better than us. Maybe just replay the install in your head?

As far as the weak stream, we're still at the same place we were earlier in this thread. How does it compare to prior times on the hose... how does it pee in the water. We can't really do much more till there's new information. Do the GPM check I mentioned - that will help us here in interweb land in understanding what you have going on.
 

cool change

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OK... So i launch my boat yesterday, figuring i wasnt getting enough water on the muffs causing week pee stream.. Well sad to say i am still getting weak stream.!! but motor is running great .. I did not keep her running long enough to make her over heat ,so i shut it down within a coupe of minutes [dont want to damage anything] .. I just dont know what could have happened. I used all the right parts, and the parts i replaced looked fine...actually looked great no corrosion or anything. I even checked pee hose for clogs all clear.. I am 95 % sure i did everthing right with the water pump change, is it possible i installed one of the parts wrong ? I could sure use some advice thanks
 

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Shoot, that's a bummer. If you are POSITIVE that nothing is clogging the pee hole, then I think you have to backtrack and drop the lower again. On the plus side, it's a simple job so it at least won't take much effort/time. Given that it sounds like the work you did is the only variable, it makes the most sense that that is where the problem lies. I think that is the first step.

I don't have my motor in front of me to look, but on many engines, you backtrace the peehole and disconnect a hose further "upstream" to verify flow. In other words, a clog may not be only at the exit hole in the motor housing. It could be before (upstream) that.
 

seasick

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I would normally tell you to run and see what happens but I understand your concerns on overheating.
In that case, you could use an IR contactless thermometer with the cowling off. Run at idle and check the temps of both t-stat housings every few minutes. From cold you will see the temps rise and then (if everything is OK) steady out at about 145 to 160 degrees or so. If the temps level out ( it could go as hing as about 180 in some cases) go for a run and every 5 minutes or so measure both t-statss. The temps shouldn't go much above what you saw at idle when the temperature leveled out. If both temps are high, you probably have a water pump issue. If one is way off from the other, you have a blockage or a bad t-stat.
You can but a contactless IR thermometer at HD or Lowes for under $40. You can get one even cheaper at Harbor Freight. This tool is really handy for motor cooling issues, hot spots in wiring and for checking trailer bearing temps among other things. You don't need the more expensive models , the basic will do.
 

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I started to type it, but went back and deleted it since it sounded like you are very worried about it and I didn't want to try and convince you of something you didn't want to do it. But since Seasick mentioned it...... I agree with him about going for a run and seeing what happens. Obviously, monitor your temps - at least on the dash gauge. You might not have an actual problem. You surely might... but you might not. As Seasick talked about previously, the pee hole is a different "circuit" than the water that goes to the engine. Meaning, you could have ZERO flow out of the pee hole, yet still have plenty through the engine. Again, you may very well ALSO have limited flow through the engine - but running it again will help you figure it out.