Getting Ready To Splash, My Routine, Tips and Rant...

Fishtales

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I decided to look a little harder and clean a bit more this year before spashing as she is get older. I removed the mid cockpit deck panel (never pulled it to this point) and inspected the fuel tanks, sending units, hoses to fills and motors and clamps and was pleasantly surprised. The tanks looked in great condition and all was as it should be down there. I like to use Zep Mold and Mildew Remover (sold in gallons at HD), let soak a few minutes and thoroughly wash it all away out the garboard plug hole. The only thing I found was some sort of growth on the fuel lines to the motor. I tried hitting them with water but no luck. I sprayed it all down with the Zep (including the growth) and simply washed it all away - must have killed it. Did the same to the backside of deck panel and all look awesome. I crawled in and inspected the areas under the mid beth and aft bilge area, I clean these every year with the Zep, wash and let gravity drain it all out. The storage lockers under the V berth, mid berth and rest of the bilge looks almost like the day I bought her. Re-caulked decks with GE silicone almond color caulking at HD and replaced some of the inspection port O rings from Beckson.
I find the zep works great prior to washing after removing the shrinkwrap. I sometimes get little spots of dirt or mold in the rough surface nooks and crannies of the rough gelcoat and hardtop after being under the shrinkwrap all winter. I see guys using power washers and scrubbing. The zeo works great on the underside edge of the hardtop and hatches where dirt and mold like to start to grow as well as the underside of the hardtop and zipper storage piece.
Changed out all the zincs (seem to do them all every year) including the thruster center and touched the bottom paint up. Held up well since last year. I always hit the water line to mitigate the scum line.
I like to use a metal cleaner to hit all the ss pieces of the engine, thru hulls, props, brass tubes and ss hardtop & bow rail piping. For the hull and top side areas I like to machine clean with Colonite cleaner and wax with Meguiars liquid marine wax. Check the registration sticker and also make sure I have a copy with the paperwork.
Enclosure is washed before putting away. I use a 3 step on the glass before putting up in the spring - Meguiars cleaner followed by Meguiars polish and then finish with Plexus. They come out very clear, all pipe burn is removed on the corner pieces that come in contact with them over the hot summer and the glass is very pliable. I've had to re-sew many of the pieces over the last few years, the OEM thread didn't last a well as the white stamoid and strataglass. I sprang for a new fold down rear seat this year. Almost as cheap as a re-uppolstering to replace the entire unit (new stainless pieces, rack, cushion and fabric) direct from the manufacturer. Makes it a simple bolt on.
About a day left before I release to the dealer to do their summizeration and splash. I recommend checking wipers and if need replacing get from your automotive store - anco fillers, wiping the windshield with rainx. Inside if you have access to power the West Marine cabin circulator is great as it moves the cabin air and has a small heater to keep moisture away.
I review my 2 ditch bags and ensure all safety equipment (epirb batteries, plb, flares) are all within date. If you don't have it, get some Stay Afloat for your ditch bag and a handy location on your boat - this stuff can be a life saver. I check and replenish any first aid items. I check that I have the washers in the Yamaha washdown lines. It seems one falls out every year. Also check all trim switches. Seems like I get a one of the helm switches doesn't work until it hit it with WD40.
I check and remove and replace caulking if needed where the motor well meet the transom, around those white corner pieces. Finally, remember to treat your head, flush your water system well and if needed add a little bleach or the freshner you can get at any marine store to purify the system. Hopefully, you'll have a good year!
 

Ky Grady

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Nice write up. A lot of good info. Will look into the Zep as I'm pulling the gas tank panels as soon as I get it back.
 

Tmbrwuf

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Hey John,
When I checked my fuel tank inspection ports, it didn't look like the previous owner had ever cleaned or flushed the area at all. I have made a slight attempt at cleaning/flushing the area, but I do need to pull the deck plates and do a full inspection and cleaning. I have used ZEP, but Simple Green can work well also, but the regular type of Simple Green is corrosive to aluminum and some other metals, so be sure to get the aircraft or extreme type of Simple Green for prolonged use on those areas. Sometimes it is called Simple Green Pro or HD, but it will state that it is safe for metals. It is made for getting oily grime off aluminum cooling fins, radiators, etc., and is easy on the aluminum, but does a great job at cleaning. I use it on the motorhome's diesel pusher radiator/CAC stack. Dawn detergent is another available alternative and is a little gentler. I have just been a little afraid to pull the plates and get started, I can see a big potential project in the making. I guess I'll just keep my head in the sand for now and pretend all is good under there until I get a chance to get into it. New fuel tanks could be a rather big job (I have the aux tank also). I got a text yesterday evening that she is ready to pick up from the shop that did the cowling and gelcoat. Of course, my vehicle is in the shop today, so when I get it out I'll go get pick her up. It may be tomorrow. (I just went out to the garage and checked the Simple Green, it is the "Extreme" for "aircraft and precision cleaning" and it states "non-corrosive".)
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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Two things I learned from this thread are the ZEP product for mold and regular simple green ain't that simple when it comes to metals. I think I will give the mold stuff a whirl on the bilge after work today. Thanks Fishtales for sharing.