Performance Trailer Rebuild in Progress

Tmbrwuf

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Hey Bob, John, Dave, and anyone else familiar with trailer issues,

As some of you know, I'm in the process of getting my 2006 228G Seafarer in shape. While I had it in the shop for some rather minor touch-ups, I decided to do a "little" trailer work. I didn't want my polished up and refurbished Seafarer to come home to a less than optimal ride... well, the rewiring of the lights turned into a more detailed check of the trailer in general.

The bearings on the integrated hub assemblies looked fine, rolled smoothly and quietly, but the inner castle nuts on all four "replaceable" spindles are completely rusted to the spindles and beyond repair. To the point I couldn't get any of them to budge, they didn't look very good at all and were crumbling. The Kodiak 225 calipers were sorta rusty, the pad brackets were very rusty and crumbling and the rotors were pretty bad. So, I thought since I wasn't around for the first ten years of the trailer's life and don't know it's complete history, I would just replace both torsion axles and put on new, integrated hubs, stainless brakes and new brake lines while I'm waiting for the boat to be ready.

I just got the new Goodyear Endurance tires for the trailer. It has two new Marathons on it, but they are now made in China and I've seen some less than good reports of the inconsistent wall thicknesses and other problems with them. The new Endurance tires are made in the USA and are 8-ply, D rated, look great, and cost less than the Marathons. I think Goodyear is trying to get as many of these on the road as possible after the USA startup a couple months ago. Not too many reviews on them yet but I, and the shop that installed them on new rims for me, have been impressed by the apparent quality of the tire. Time will tell.

I got the axle and brake items delivered from Expediter in Palm Beach, who was recommended by Dexter, who bought out Tie Down's axle division. So far so good... then I started looking more closely at crossmembers and thought, ya' know maybe I should replace the two 80" ones while I'm at it since the rear one had been damaged by someone hitting the guide pole, which cracked the outside couple inches of the underside of the crossmember where the guide pole is attached by the U-bolts.

The bunk brackets are attached by galvanized U-bolts which we know have the potential to eat into the crossmember due to the dissimilar metal corrosion and some evidence of that may be apparent without removing the brackets. For those not familiar with the Performance trailer, at least on mine, the crossmembers are not hung by U-bolts, but bolted through only the topside of the crossmember through the I-beam frame flanges. To further weaken the area, holes are drilled through the bottom of the crossmember so you can access these bolts with an socket and extension from the bottom of the crossmember. Then add the four smaller holes to mount the guide pole U-bolts and you can see the potential for a weakened area on the rear crossmember, which holds much weight, considering the overhang of the motor bracket and motor aft of the bunks.

So, now my question is... should I replace the crossmember and drill the same holes and mount the new one in the same way (it has held up for ten years), or mount with stainless U-bolts. I would still have to drill the smaller holes in the bottom of the crossmember for the guide pole bracket, but feel I could only drill two and just use one U-bolt for the guide pole. I would then drill one more hole in each flange of the I-beam on each side for the U-bolts to hang the crossmember, not too big a deal. But now there would be a little more downward force at the very aft section of the I-beam flange since the rear portion of the U-bolt will be just aft of the crossmember and pulling down on the last couple inches of the I-beam as you tighten the U-bolt down and then when the weight of the boat is supported on the crossmember.

My engineering and physics background may be causing me to overthink this, but I need to get my trailer back on the road to go pick up the boat, so I want to move on getting the trailer in shape. I will have some delay in getting the new crossmembers due to the Memorial Day weekend and Monday probably being a holiday for Sturdy-Built, which seems to be the best source for the hardware I need.

The other option would be to finish the axle job and pick up the boat with the trailer as it is and wait for my next chance with the boat off the trailer to complete the rebuild. Of course I know that some may say just get a new trailer, but I have some investment in the trailer already and am still coming in well under the price of a new, comparable trailer with quality components, SS brakes, etc.

Any thoughts on the crossmember attachment are greatly appreciated, especially from anyone who has replaced one on a Performance Crew II trailer or similar.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
 

Ky Grady

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Wish I could help you out Steve. I was faced with pretty much the same issues as what you are experiencing, so I guess I chose the easier way out. Slid a brand new Loadmaster trailer under mine for $4800, which included trading my 11 year old, saltwater dunked Loadmaster in on the new one. Very happy with my choice to do this.

Bob (SmokyMtnGrady) has just gone through his trailer doing much of the same work, minus the cross members. He'll chime in here shortly. He's preparing for road tripping to Florida with his 228.

Yamaha mechanic is finished with the exhaust and such as of last Thursday, fiberglass guys are picking it up this coming week to get going on that. Hope to go get her in a couple of weeks.

Thoughts on crossmember and mounting. We have a lot of weight/downforce on the rear of the trailer, especially with the motor hanging out there and bouncing down the road. I'd be inclined to mount as original for the support in the way the trailer was designed.
 

Tmbrwuf

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Thank you sir,

Yep, I'm sorta leaning towards replacing as it was, even though I've found a couple failures reported due to the way they mount the crossmember and because they drill the six holes in the bottom of the crossmember and only use the top surface for attachment.

It looks like they drill all of their 80" crossmembers the same way because the forward one has all the holes in it too, but obviously no guide poles there. I can get by drilling fewer holes, so maybe it'll be OK. I'll try to post some pics later today. I appreciate your response, waiting for Bob to chime in. I'm jealous, still haven't got her in the water, 92 degrees here today, should be on the water. Trailers suck... anyone have a Performance they've been upgrading or repairing? Do other manufacturers do the same, bolting through the top, or do most others use U-bolts to attach the aluminum crossmembers?

Steve
 

Parthery

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The mass produced manufacturers typically bolt the crossmembers to the I-Beam. The custom guys weld them together.

I don't like galvanized crossmembers because they (A) rust from the inside out and (b) have to be galvanically isolated. That said, they do offer extra weight to the trailer and are less expensive than aluminum.

A 22' 7K trailer is going to set you back close to $5K if you do 50/50 brakes, and another $1000 if you do all stainless. You have to do the math. $2500 on a 10-12 year old trailer may not make sense if you can get $1000-$1200 for it on CL or on trade. It's a tough call.

Like Bob, John, etc... I don't skimp on the trailer. I've spent too much time broken down.
 
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Tmbrwuf

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Thank you sir,

Yep, agree with doing the best I can with the trailer. I've had boats for 50+ years, but haven't needed to trailer quite as much as I do now. Between the house on the NC coast, the house in GA and the inlaw's place in FL. My new-to-me 2006 228G just calls to be taken on many of our trips, so I want it to be road worthy.

I am going to go ahead with the two new aluminum 80" V crossmembers and mount them as the originals were, with the exception of the extra holes for the guide poles. I will replace the bunk bracket U-bolts with stainless. The galvanized hat brackets and 2x2s for the forward bunks will now be aluminum with stainless U-bolts. That way the only steel frame members will be the new galvanized torsion axles, which I have isolated from the aluminum. I have even used Noalox on the bolts and washers, so we'll see how it does.
I have been working on the new Kodiak SS brakes and hubs today, going well so far. I did need some new bolts and lock nuts for the flange brackets however. The old ones just didn't look good enough to trust. If I can get the other parts tomorrow, with it being a holiday for some shops, I'll be moving along. Otherwise, I'll have a slight delay.

Speaking of the holiday, please remember our fallen comrades and their families tomorrow, Memorial Day. I served 41 years, 7 months and 16 days in the Marine Corps and saw many good men lost. Let's all make sure it wasn't in vain.

Steve
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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Steve,
First I would not do integrated hubs and rotors. I bring spare hubs fully loaded and ready to go for quick recovery on the road. The integrated hub makes this more costly . Hubs fail , rotors not so much.

Second, I have 2007 Magic Trail Aluminum trailer that I bought new in 09 with my boat from then Lockwood Marine . In 2013 I took the trailer in extra early before a vacation to Florida.two months pass I call the trailer guy and he says he has forgot about it. Two days before I depart he says I need new brakes. One of the UPF calipers seized. So, I did a Clak Griswold and bought a new trailer to save the family vacation. I did not think it through and bought a Venture from the Grady dealer in Charleston.

So, now I have a lightly used Magic Trail in need of a new home. The axles are fine, the bunks are in great shape the tires are virtually new. It needs brakes . It only got dunked in saltwater maybe 3 tines a year when it was in operation. It can be yours for $1,400. Take off the crappy UPF brakes and add Deemaxx or Kodiak and voila a great trailer.
 

Tmbrwuf

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Hey Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I already got the integrated hub/rotors on, oh well. I can just carry an extra though. My axles have removable spindles and I have an extra one of those too. Maybe that'll be enough preventative overkill to avoid problems... Anyway, your offer on the trailer may be a good option for me. Having a spare never hurts and I have another boat in need of trailer work that it may work with also. The Kodiak 225s I took off my trailer for the rebuild aren't too bad. I just wanted the stainless and decided instead of rebuilding the others it would be quicker to just put the new ones on. I could rebuild those Kodiak brakes and put them on the Magic Trail trailer. What size rims/tires are on it?
I heard you were heading to FL this week and I'm waiting for the additional parts to come in to finish getting this one on the road so I can rescue my boat, but if you have time could you PM me a pic of the trailer? I think I've already got too much into the rebuild to scrap it now, but am still very interested in your trailer. Have a great trip!
Steve
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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Steve,
If I am getting to Fla it won't be for two weeks then I am towing the boat to fish out of the port. However, if my magic trail trailer seems to work, I will gladly head south to Titusville and deliver it that far. The wheels are 14 inch with 5 lug hubs. I think the spindles are tapered bolt on . I need to check.


The Magic gas 14 inch 5 lug