1983 Seafarer 226 Restoration

UCPA111

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Hey All...new to this forum. I recently purchased the boat in the subject line. It has the notched transom. I am currently restoring the boat (father son project with my dad and son). It has a nice hard top, new canvas, good hull. Boat came with al trailer - tandem axles. Price was right.

I am redoing the transom and making it a full height. I purchased coosa board and the supplies to glass it in. So, that should take care of the strength of the stern and yes...it had a wet transom (plywood is wet).
I am looking to repower it. The 225 2 stroke yamaha that was on it was grendaded. It's the reason the guy sold the boat. So, I am looking at Honda BF250 and Yahama F250 offshore. Wanting to go light and 4 stroke and drive by wire. I know it's crazy to hang this $$$ on a 1983 vessel, but it's worth it to me to have a new motor on it.
I intend to install a floatation style bracket from Armstrong or competitor on this boat. They say it offers 300# of floatation.

I am putting in a new gas tank and moving it forward in the boat (removed the old one -it's pitted. Bought a new one from a great guy - http://www.patriotmarinefab.net/ with a great price and quality.). Gas tank is 93 gallons.
So, I think I should be ok with going 4 stroke and balancing the boat (lighter stern material vs 228, floatation bracket, moving gas tank forward).

Anyone have experience with the Honda/Yamaha on this vintage of boat and performance? Any opinions on either motor? Curious how slow it will go (for trolling - can I be below 2 mph)? Top speed and cruise? Fuel burn?

I am replacing all thru hull fittings for safety sake....new fuel and vent lines...and looking to install new updated switches (maybe these guys https://newwiremarine.com/custom-marine-switch-panels/ ). Anyone use them? I want to make this a reliable, updated vessel. When done - new motor, new controls, new gas tank, new electrical switches, new canvas. I know that's a lot for a 1983 boat, but it will be "like new" in most aspects. I think a new one is going to be over $90,000, correct?

Anyone done this before? Any thoughts or advice? Other than "don't do it" which is too late...I'm committed :) LOL!

I have a younger family (8 and 10 year old kids) and want something safe, something that provides protection from the elements, has a lot of space for fishing and messing around, and can be taken to the ocean for a trip annually. It will be trailered (not kept on water) and used primarily in Lake Erie. I grew up on Lake Erie with a Tiara and then a 34' Luhrs...so I know the Lake can be nasty...

Thanks in advance!
 

gw204

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Check the stringers too. I bet you have more work ahead of you than you think...
 

Finest Kind

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Congrats on your purchase, restore it, customize it and make her yours.
An old Grady is like a woman, treat her right and she will give you lots of pleasure. Neglect her and she will ruin you.

If you are going to install a bracket, look into the Hermco fiberglass flotation bracket. I've had mine for ten years and am very glad I installed it. The deep V improved the ride in rough water, improved fuel economy and the flotation lifted the scuppers up out of the water. The integral swim platform is great to have as well.
http://www.hermco.net/

Also, if you are re-powering, check out this site and watch the videos before you decide if you really want go with a four stroke:
http://www.chooseyouretec.com/en-us/
 

Doc Stressor

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Here are a couple of things to keep in mind when you restore that old Seafarer:

1) That hull was designed for an engine weighing no more than 400 lb. Regardless of whether you go with a V6 4-stroke or 2-stroke, your weight distribution is going to be greatly changed vs the original design considerations. Moving the tank forward is the way to go. My 1986 Seafarer had 2 tank compartments, each with its own access panel. The forward held a 72 gallon auxiliary tank and the rear held the approx. 96 gallon main tank. There was a big difference in ride and handling depending on the distribution of fuel between the 2 tanks. Moving a 93 gallon tank into the forward position should account for the added weight of the modern engine. But unless you are a marine archetype who can calculate the balance point, understand that you are sort of flying on a wing and a prayer.

2) Definitely get a transom bracket like the Hermco that extends the bottom of the V hull out to the motor. I've been on an older Seafarer where the guy had just closed off the transom and used an original Armstrong bracket without flotation. The ride was squirrelly and the boat had trouble staying on plane at lower speeds in any kind of chop.

3. Speaking of chop, I've only been on Lake Erie a couple of times. As I recall, it typically has a short period chop similar to what he get in the Gulf of Mexico. With any seas much over a foot, you are going to hate that hull. It will pound no matter what you do to correct the trim. The hull can handle it, but you probably can't if the run is for more than 30 minutes or so. Grady went to the SV2 for a reason.

4. You are going to need a kicker motor if you expect to troll at typical lake trolling speeds. With a 17" prop, the slowest you can expect to go at idle speed is about 4 mph. You will need to add the weight of the kicker to your engine weight considerations. Plus, you will need to consider how you are going to mount a kicker when you choose your bracket or transom extension.

Good luck with your project. I liked the old style hull for its stability and seakeeping ability, despite the rough ride. But be aware of its limitations for your area. If you do right, your project won't be cost effective relative to getting a latter model boat. But there is a lot of reward in building an old one up by yourself (or with your son) that goes beyond the cost.
 

UCPA111

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Thanks Guys.
I'll checkout the fiberglass bracket. I definitely want a floatation one, and have one quoted from Armstrong. And, I intend to replace the scuppers. Between the lighter coosa board transom and moving the tank forward, it should have a dramatic effective in balance. I may move batteries forward as well.

I know this is a lot of money into an older boat. However, I looked at newer models and while I can pickup something from the late 1990s for $25K-$30K....it still had a used motor and potentially similar issues (pitted gas tank and wet transom). I figure I can have less than $30K (trailer, boat, motor, improvements) in this boat and it's then like new with a motor and warranty.

I didn't know this model pounded in waves. Lake Erie is a tight chop for sure. I was thinking with the tank moved forward and the V of the hull and flare that I'd be in good shape. Can't be worse than a Tiara (we ran a Tiara pursuit from 1985). Solid boat but pounded. This has more of a Carolina flare.

I am already enjoying time with my Dad and son working on it. Thanks for all the insight!
 

Finest Kind

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Another option when you shop around for the flotation bracket:
http://www.dusky.com/parts/outboard-brackets

One of my Fishing Buddys had a 22 Seafarer, and we never cancelled a trip due to weather unless it was so bad that all the boats under 40 feet were not going out either.
(we fish in the Atlantic off the coast of NJ)

Just take your time in a head-sea, adjust the throttle to the slowest speed you can maintain on-plane, trim the motor down to it's lowest position, and apply "bow down" to your trim tabs. The fish will wait for you. ;)
"you cant' do more than the seas will allow"
 

Ky Grady

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UCPA111 said:
I didn't know this model pounded in waves. Lake Erie is a tight chop for sure. I was thinking with the tank moved forward and the V of the hull and flare that I'd be in good shape. This has more of a Carolina flare.

The SeaV2 hull didn't come about till 1992 on the Seafarer. I've fished a buddy's 1988 226 Seafarer that did the same thing closing in the transom and adding a bracket but didn't move the tank. It's not bad, but you can tell a difference. He doesn't have tabs, which you do, so a plus on your side.
 

Doc Stressor

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The old style hull really only pounds with a short chop. I used to run my old Seafarer down from Tarpon Springs to the Keys. Running out close to the Gulf Stream on the Atlantic side in 3-5 ft seas was no big deal. But on the way down and back, if the seas in the Gulf got to 2', we would run the Inter coastal.

The hull does a good job in keeping the spray down with the Carolina flair, but the impact point when running into or quartering head seas is right under the drivers feet. The hull doesn't have much deadrise at that point and in combination with the reverse chin, your legs take quite a beating in short period waves. Sometimes on long runs we would use the autopilot and stand behind the pedestal seats to reduce the impact. With longer period seas the hull would lift over the waves just fine and wouldn't come down as hard as long as we weren't going too fast. The trick is to have enough engine torque to be able to keep the boat firmly on plane at 18-20 mph in sloppy seas.

BTW, the old type hull is great with a following sea. It doesn't wallow at all. It also tracks very straight at trolling speeds, even with an offset kicker motor and has very good docking behavior. I can't imagine trying to troll using a kicker with the SV2 hull. They wander all over the place at low speed, which makes trolling and docking a challenge.

One more piece of info: The older hull requires significantly less hp than the SV2. With less wetted surface, my old Seafarer ran fine with a 200 hp 2-stroke, even when hauling up to 4 divers with tanks. The newer hull need at least 250 hp for proper performance. I used to get 42 mph at WOT in my old boat with 200 hp. I don't get much more that that with my newer boat with 250 hp.
 

UCPA111

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Great feedback guys. I had always heard good things about this hull. I know they went to the new design to address some things...

The 1985 Tiara Pursuit my Dad had was a rock solid boat but always pounded. This boat looks like it should do fine for my needs. I have no intention of beating myself and my family up. I do want to make sure it's solid in case I ever get stuck in a blow. Lake Erie is notorious for going from glass to 5 footers with short period in less than 30 minutes. It can be insane.
 

UCPA111

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Some pics of the boat.
 

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Doc Stressor

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That boat appears to be in amazing shape! Certainly worth the time and effort to bring the old girl back.
 

UCPA111

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I agree. I am excited to rejuvenate this boat. It has a lot of life left and when I'm done with what I intend to do....she should be fantastic.
 

RTNEPTUNE

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Congrats on your new project . I recently picked up a one owner 1990 Seafarer 226 . I just bolted an Armstrong bracket on it and will rig her with an GEN 1 E-tec 250 . I was seriously considering a Yam 4 stroke 225 or 250 but I got lots of advice that the weight may be a little too much , I have only owned Yam 4 strokes so it took a lot to convince me to go with a 2 stroke , but after a lot of research I chose the E-tec they seem to be very nice motors . I am redoing a bunch of things to the boat too luckily my transom is in good shape , so I have money to spend on other things . I am moving my batteries forward to the aux fuel tank hatch and will eventually install a freshwater tank in the same compartment , I will redo all the electrical switches and dash area . Can't wait to get her on the water .
My advice to you is , look at all your engine options and carefully consider your engine weight , I think all modern engines today 4 stroke and 2 stroke are worth considering .

I hope you get to enjoy your Grady soon , I have only heard good things from owners of this model .
 

UCPA111

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RTNEPTUNE said:
Congrats on your new project . I recently picked up a one owner 1990 Seafarer 226 . I just bolted an Armstrong bracket on it and will rig her with an GEN 1 E-tec 250 . I was seriously considering a Yam 4 stroke 225 or 250 but I got lots of advice that the weight may be a little too much , I have only owned Yam 4 strokes so it took a lot to convince me to go with a 2 stroke , but after a lot of research I chose the E-tec they seem to be very nice motors . I am redoing a bunch of things to the boat too luckily my transom is in good shape , so I have money to spend on other things . I am moving my batteries forward to the aux fuel tank hatch and will eventually install a freshwater tank in the same compartment , I will redo all the electrical switches and dash area . Can't wait to get her on the water .
My advice to you is , look at all your engine options and carefully consider your engine weight , I think all modern engines today 4 stroke and 2 stroke are worth considering .

I hope you get to enjoy your Grady soon , I have only heard good things from owners of this model .


Thanks. I have the ETEC on my list. I just feel like the 4 stroke will be quieter, although the YouTube videos of the ETECs are intriguing. I'd like to go new with a warranty. I wonder what a new ETEC G2 costs?

Do you have pictures of the bracket you installed? Did you have is custom made? Swim platform or bracket only? I reached out to Armstrong today about adjusting the single bracket size to get more floatation when boat is at rest. They said it wouldn't be a problem.
 

RTNEPTUNE

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UCPA111 said:
RTNEPTUNE said:
Congrats on your new project . I recently picked up a one owner 1990 Seafarer 226 . I just bolted an Armstrong bracket on it and will rig her with an GEN 1 E-tec 250 . I was seriously considering a Yam 4 stroke 225 or 250 but I got lots of advice that the weight may be a little too much , I have only owned Yam 4 strokes so it took a lot to convince me to go with a 2 stroke , but after a lot of research I chose the E-tec they seem to be very nice motors . I am redoing a bunch of things to the boat too luckily my transom is in good shape , so I have money to spend on other things . I am moving my batteries forward to the aux fuel tank hatch and will eventually install a freshwater tank in the same compartment , I will redo all the electrical switches and dash area . Can't wait to get her on the water .
My advice to you is , look at all your engine options and carefully consider your engine weight , I think all modern engines today 4 stroke and 2 stroke are worth considering .

I hope you get to enjoy your Grady soon , I have only heard good things from owners of this model .


Thanks. I have the ETEC on my list. I just feel like the 4 stroke will be quieter, although the YouTube videos of the ETECs are intriguing. I'd like to go new with a warranty. I wonder what a new ETEC G2 costs?

Do you have pictures of the bracket you installed? Did you have is custom made? Swim platform or bracket only? I reached out to Armstrong today about adjusting the single bracket size to get more floatation when boat is at rest. They said it wouldn't be a problem.

If you are having a bracket custom built and going with a 4 stroke , I would say yes have them build it with more flotation . I don't know the price on the G2 Etec but I do know the weight did increase on the G2 . plus the G2 has a new integrated steering system which sounds great but if that thing needs to be fixed or changed ,it could be costly, not like picking up some seastar parts .
 

Finest Kind

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RTNEPTUNE said:
UCPA111 said:
RTNEPTUNE said:
..... I don't know the price on the G2 Etec but I do know the weight did increase on the G2 . plus the G2 has a new integrated steering system which sounds great but if that thing needs to be fixed or changed ,it could be costly, not like picking up some seastar parts .

Pricing will depend on your negotiating skills and the competitive situation with your dealers. Get quotes from at least 3 and go back to each and show them the lowest. Do business with the dealer with the best reputation for service, as long as he is in the ballpark with the others.
I'm sure you can get a new G2 installed for under 20K.

BTW, you can save thousands of dollars and over 60 lbs of weight on the transom (bracket) by going with a G2 TRAC model, which does not have the integral power steering and instead is built with the tried and true Evinrude classic mid-section which utilizes your existing seastar steering. These models DO have the new beefed up lower unit, and of course
still have the state of the art G2 powerhead with their fantastic fuel efficiency, torque and an FIVE YEAR FULL WARRANTY, the best in the business.
(the warranty is sometimes offered for longer periods as a special promotion and during boat shows, I got mine at TEN years which was offered for a limited time during the Palm Beach Boat Show last March)
 

UCPA111

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New Fuel Tank arrived!!
 

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RTNEPTUNE

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There are some coatings you can apply to that fuel tank that will help it last a lot longer than a bare metal one would .
or you could get it powder coated .