fischer panda

ttles714

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Can someone explain how the cooling system works on the 4KW Fischer Panda Diesel Generator ? Any quirks? with this unit ? spare parts to keep handy ?? Thanks
 

Fishtales

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basically it is a closed fresh water cooling system. There is an internal loop with water and antifreeze and an exchanger that has saltwater pulled in and circulated around the closed loop system. The saltwater comes in and out. If you want details, contact FP. They are actually very good at explaining theory of operation and what may be needed if you have a breakdown.

tx
 

ttles714

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Thanks ... I am not sure why I was told not to leave the sea cock open when the gen is not running .. I could understand that if it were not a Fresh water cools system ... Another question, please .. is there a gauge for the diesel tank ?? somewhere ??
 

everwhom

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I believe the newer ones are closed loop with a heat exchanger, but the older ones (like on my 2003 330) are raw water into the engine cooling passages. For what it’s worth I’ve forgotten to close the seacock several times when running full speed in sporty conditions and never had a problem, but I do try hard to remember. I even replaced my deck hatch with a twist off one so it would be easier to get to the seacocks.
 

everwhom

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Sorry - to answer your original question, I have a spare relay which I’ve never used (bought it because I thought my starter relay was faulty — turned out to be corrosion on the fuse on the back of the control panel), but otherwise mine has been trouble free since I acquired the boat 3 years ago.

I had to replace the “Water Connection Piece” which acts as a sacrificial anode for the raw water system, but otherwise I’ve just done routine winterization and service every year.

I think Fischer sells some maintenance & repair kits... I contacted them about the electrical problem I had (generator hard to start) and they were very responsive, so I’d certainly suggest emailing them.
 

Fishtales

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Hi,
I was told never to run the boat with the generator seacock open unless the generator was running. I was told you could flood the generator - although this never made sense to me. I've run the generator while the boat was running (started at a stop position) and never had a problem.
 

wspitler

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The latest version of the 4200 with the coolant system and heat exchanger still uses raw water to cool the "wet exhaust." That means it is possible, albeit highly unlikely, that raw water could be forced into the exhaust system of the engine with it not running and the sea cock open. Worst case, the raw water could get into the cylinder if the exhaust valve was open. It could corrode the internals if the intake scoop forced raw (salt) water backward into the exhaust system. The generator shuts down automatically for four reasons: high exhaust temp, high engine (coolant) temp, low oil pressure, and high generator winding temp. Here how I learned: Mine (2007) recently shutdown for the later due to a continuous excitation boost caused by a failed solid state relay. It was producing 130+ volts and caused an alarm in the cabin at 130.1 volts. There is no indication on the panel when it shuts down for the winding overheat. The replacement solid state relays are now 50 amps versus the 25 amps that were installed in 2007. FP said it won't usually overvolt, but mine did. Took a couple days to figure it out and the guys in Fort Lauderdale with FP were great and helped troubleshoot the problem.
 

ttles714

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HMMMMM !!! Mine is a 2007 .... I have only run the gen a few minutes.. BUT .. I could swear I saw 129VAC on the panel ... could you elaborate a little more on the relay you spoke about ..Do you have a part # or location ?? ( are these the 2 square relays in the front left of the gen ?? )Thank s
 

wspitler

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There are two solid state relays in the large stainless steel AC voltage control box located (in my 330) port side aft cabin behind a panel with the air conditioner, water system pumps, and trim tab reservoir. Those relays provide a boost and excitation to the field windings using 4 capacitors (two for excitation and two for boost) to boost the voltage when a load is applied, for instance the air conditioning compressor starts up. They also have varistors attached across the relays. They smooth out surges and prevent voltage drops. There is a printed circuit board in the control box that monitors voltage and closes the relays when required. One of the relays was failed closed on my boat providing a continuous boost which caused high voltage. I could bring the voltage down by loading up the system with the AC and the water heater, etc. but that overheated the windings, causing the generator to shut down after a while. I replaced them both when I learned the replacement ones were higher ratings (50A versus 25A). The generator runs at 3600RPM to provide constant frequency (60HZ) The more common relay failures are the ones on the generator itself which activate the fuel pump, starter and fuel solenoid. They are simple plug in types, easy to change.
 

ttles714

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THANK YOU !! learning slowly !! Does anyone know where the box is installed on a Marlin ???
 

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Thanks for the cogent explanation. My FP suddenly will not start. I'll have to find the relays you mentioned on the genset. Are they both the same part?
 

wspitler

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I believe they are identical and you might try exchanging them to test which one is bad. Don't have the manual handy, but they are easy to get to and swap. Call FP in Ft. Lauderdale and talk to Alan. He'll tell you and can provide parts advice. I carry a raw water pump impellor, belt, fuses, spare relays, filters, etc. FP sells two different parts kits that have most everything you might need. It is really a simple one cylinder diesel engine.