1997 Marlin 30 balsa core moisture

Graybeard

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My wife wants a bigger GW that we and grandkids can sleep on. She likes the Express 330 and We went to NJ to see 3 used Express 330’s we saw in a local boat sale publication. The one my wife liked was a 2003, but it had the F225 Yamaha’s known for their dry exhaust corrosion problems. The engines scared me but the bank made the decision for us. Now I’m looking at a 1997 Marlin 30 that was repowered with F250’s in 2011. My offer was accepted and my loan application was approved, so I thought it was all good. Then I learned it was under contract before but it fell through because the survey found a broken plastic through hull fitting that allowed water to get in and create moisture in the balsa hull core. The broaker is a local boat builder that was up front with the moisture issue, but said he’s seen it before and doesn’t think it’s extensive or problematic on this boat. The dealer where I bought my current GW said it’s a known issue and would be an expensive gamble. I sort of want this boat, my wife says it’s too small for the grandkids..........and now the moisture in the balsa core......HELP!!
 

seasick

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Did you have a survey done on the vessel? Don't sign anything until you have one done and make the sale contingent on the survey. The boat needs to be out of the water for a surveyor to check moisture levels in the sides of the hull. I don't think the lower hull id cored. I believe it is solid glass. Get a surveyor who is familiar with that hull.
 

DennisG01

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I agree with Seasick. There's a good chance the issue could be minor... but it could be bigger. You don't want to guess when it's your dime that would have to fix it. Make sure you get a surveyor that TRULY knows how to read moisture meters.

On the other hand.... Ummm, your wife said she wants a bigger boat. Why are you arguing? This is a perfect time to say "You're right, honey" :mrgreen:
 

Fishtales

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I'm going to say go into this with a 'not happening' just because of age. 20 year boat at this point. I wouldn't even bother, but if you are going through with it, you need a survey by a qualified surveyor. I'd ensure the surveyor is all over the stringers and transom as well. The last thing you want is a major problem boat that you have a note on IMHO.
 

Graybeard

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I haven’t arranged for a survey yet, but a survey is one of the conditions of my loan approval. So the survey results could resolve the buy or not to buy delimma for me. The boat is out of the water and the faulty plastic through hull was removed and the hole left open. It looks like it may have been damaged while docking. The thing is the F250 engines are only 2 years older than the engine on my Freedom 225 and have less hours on them. NADA says the engines are worth as much as the hull. The Hull Truth has some threads on the same type of hull balsa core moisture problem, if not bad it’s fixable, but it’s not inexpensive. The GW rep said the stringers and transom are encapsulated plywood and not balsa cored, so they should be solid. The survey will cost around $800, but that’s the price of admission. I want this boat for the price, but it sounds like a gamble at best
 

Andrew93

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The sides of the hull should be solid glass. If a through hull was broke and allowing water in, it should just be draining into the bilge. If the glass is solid around the damaged through hull I don't see how it could have a water intrusion issue unless there was a secondary issue with the stringers or bulkheads where the water entering the broken fitting was then impinging on the secondary damage, but that seems unlikely.

Soft decks are usually from improperly mounted aftermarket hardware it seems. THT can be a dangerous place to ask questions about an "older" boat especially a Grady, a lot of nay-sayers. Also an "old" boat is also perception, I started with a 1986 and my "new" boat is a 1999. I have the typical issues here and there but I am happy with it for the perceivable future. The occasional transom issue on Grady's and every other manufacturer have some hypersensitive to rot issues where they may not apply, such as the sides of the hull where I believe are solid glass.

Good luck, sounds like a nice boat with the newer power

Andrew
 

Graybeard

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LOL......the broker just told me he was misinformed and my offer on the Marlin wasn’t accepted. But the broker and owner are both out of town until Monday so everything is on hold.
 

Fishtales

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Fire93Medic said:
The sides of the hull should be solid glass. If a through hull was broke and allowing water in, it should just be draining into the bilge. If the glass is solid around the damaged through hull I don't see how it could have a water intrusion issue unless there was a secondary issue with the stringers or bulkheads where the water entering the broken fitting was then impinging on the secondary damage, but that seems unlikely.

Soft decks are usually from improperly mounted aftermarket hardware it seems. THT can be a dangerous place to ask questions about an "older" boat especially a Grady, a lot of nay-sayers. Also an "old" boat is also perception, I started with a 1986 and my "new" boat is a 1999. I have the typical issues here and there but I am happy with it for the perceivable future. The occasional transom issue on Grady's and every other manufacturer have some hypersensitive to rot issues where they may not apply, such as the sides of the hull where I believe are solid glass.

Good luck, sounds like a nice boat with the newer power

Andrew


Hi, The newer Marlin does have balsa coring on the sides of the hull above the waterline. Not sure about 97, but I'd guess they do as the model has not changed all that much over the years.
 

journeyman

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Graybeard said:
My wife wants a bigger GW that we and grandkids can sleep on. She likes the Express 330...

Happy boating wife, happy boating life! Who are we to argue? I say make her HAPPY!!! :dance

The Marlin is a great boat. We love ours and it was a mutual decision to buy it over the 33 Express. The 30 Express didn't fit our needs. But for you, your wife and grandkids, it would seem to me that a Marlin could become a bit crowded to weekend on one. Just my 2 cents...
 

Graybeard

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My offer for the 1997 Marlin 30 was accepted yesterday. I’m happy but The wife still insists it’s too small and wanted an Express 33. But I had issues getting up to the bow for docking, it was a 2003 with the Yamaha F225’s with the dry exhaust corrosion problem and it was in NJ while we’re in Maryland. It was twice as a expensive so the bank said no. The Marlin 30 is local, being brokered by a local boat builder, is only a short cruise away from my slip at the marina and has 2009 F250’s that are 1 year older with less hours than the F200 on my current GW. The hull moisture is the only concern, the marine survey and sea trial will be next week and the surveyor will use thermal imaging to check for moisture. Everyone is telling me any 20 year old hull will have some moisture, but the issue is if the balsa core has crumbled anywhere. GW told me the stringers and transom should be fine. The broaker/builder said they did all the work/maintenacce on the boat and has no qualms about using it in the Chesapeake Bay. He did say it’s not the boat to run charter Tuna chunking trips 60 miles out in the ocean to the Baltimore canyon. The survey will be the desciding factor and If the boat is seaworthy it will seal the deal.
 

DennisG01

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"Everyone is telling me any 20 year old hull will have some moisture, but the issue is if the balsa core has crumbled anywhere. GW told me the stringers and transom should be fine"

100% true - all boats will show some moisture, even those with zero wood used. That's why it's important to have an EXPERIENCED person using the moisture meter. Not just some Joe Schmoe Survey guy.

GW is correct that the stringers and transom "should" be fine. But remember, "should be" is not "guaranteed".

Good luck!!!
 

Graybeard

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Thanks for all the input. The marine survey will tell the tail. If the boat is determined to be seaworthy the boat will be mine. If it’s determined not to be seaworthy, well then I’ll still have my Freedom 225
 

Punch53

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Graybeard said:
My offer for the 1997 Marlin 30 was accepted yesterday. I’m happy but The wife still insists it’s too small and wanted an Express 33. But I had issues getting up to the bow for docking, it was a 2003 with the Yamaha F225’s with the dry exhaust corrosion problem and it was in NJ while we’re in Maryland. It was twice as a expensive so the bank said no. The Marlin 30 is local, being brokered by a local boat builder, is only a short cruise away from my slip at the marina and has 2009 F250’s that are 1 year older with less hours than the F200 on my current GW. The hull moisture is the only concern, the marine survey and sea trial will be next week and the surveyor will use thermal imaging to check for moisture. Everyone is telling me any 20 year old hull will have some moisture, but the issue is if the balsa core has crumbled anywhere. GW told me the stringers and transom should be fine. The broaker/builder said they did all the work/maintenacce on the boat and has no qualms about using it in the Chesapeake Bay. He did say it’s not the boat to run charter Tuna chunking trips 60 miles out in the ocean to the Baltimore canyon. The survey will be the desciding factor and If the boat is seaworthy it will seal the deal.

Why wouldn't you take that boat to the canyons? I did one canyon trip this year in a 28 Rampage and 3 in a 24 Northcoast.
 

Graybeard

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It was the comment of the broker who also builds boats under the name of Composite Yachts, which are ocean going fishing boats from 26’ to 50’. He said he would have no qualms using the boat in the Chesapeake Bay, but it wouldn’t be the best boat for running charter Tuna chunking trips to the canyons. I don’t go in the ocean anymore anyway because I get seasick too easy out there
 

Punch53

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These builders never learn. Hatteras, Sea Ray, and others had huge problems with cored hulls. When you buy a boat it's not like buying a car. A well made boat will last a lifetime. I'm waiting for the inevitable transom on my Seafarer but thank G-d it's hanging in there.
 

Graybeard

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Balsa core issues are all new to me. My last boat was a 1989 Parker 21’ WAC and I sold it to my step son when I got my 2013 Freedom 225. Never had any issues with the hull or the Yamaha OX66 engine. Then my step son had to have a leaking gas tank replaced and he dropped a cylinder because of water in the ethanol fuel. I’m 3 days away from the marine survey and I’m almost afraid to hear the outcome. It needs to be “sea worthy” but the surveyor said that’s a relative term
 

gw204

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Steer clear my friend. The basla was put there to add strength to the hull sides. if it's rotten it's not able to serve it's purpose, the hull integrity is compromised. It would probably be fine for casual running around, but get caught in one of these nasty summer Chesapeake storms, or take a hit from a clueless blowboater/nut on a jetski and that's when you could have problems.

If it's just wet, it may be able to be dried out and sealed back up before the rot sets in, but why bother? Too many Marlins out there to settle for a soggy one.
 

Graybeard

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The marine surveyor I picked has 2 different moisture meters and thermal imaging equipment. Plus I’m paying him and he’ll be working for me. So I’m pretty confident i’ll Be getting the straight poop on the seaworthiness of the hull. I probed with my finger around the leaking through hull and it feels solid to me.
 

Punch53

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Why would anyone build a 200k boat and hinge it's entire integrity on a smear of life caulk and a $5 thru hull is beyond me. My Seafarer has some water in the transom but it's not rotted-yet. Where did the water come from? The 2 1/2" holes drilled through the transom for the deck scuppers. .50c in materials and 20 seconds in labor and I wouldn't have to even think about it.

My friends 30' has two holes drilled through the engine stringers that are completely submerged to pass the drains for the stuffing boxes through? Great planning.

A buddy of mine had 2 production boats built for him over the last 20 years. High end boats but he still went to the factory and inspected every inch of the construction. Needless to say the factory re-did a lot of work but in the end it was done correctly.