Wiring run advice from helm to bow. New Windlass.

First question is did you check first to see if you already have the wires running to the bow from the transom for a windlass? Mine already had them installed by the factory. Look up under the Port Gunnel and around near where the batteries are. They had a yellow plastic tag zip tied to them advising they were windlass cables.

Pic where I added the rocker switch. I can stick my finger just under the cover without too much trouble, but like it under so it stays protected.

tgr23 said:

I sent an email to Grady and their response was that the Adventure was not wired for a windlass since they didn't offer it as an option.

Another question. Since I'm running 6awg wire how do I connect it to the 10awg coming off the windlass? I've poked around for a step-down butt connector but found nothing at that size. I guess i could go with a busbar. What have others done?

Thanks

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what kind of windlass is it? Before i did anything I would contact the windlass manufacturer and ask them. any connections should be inside a box so it maybe a good idea to install a disconnect in the bow. There are known issues in a salt air enviroment with disimiliar metals causing problems so any connector used should be marine spec and properly made with the correct tool as well as the wire itself. You don't want to be in a bad situation and find your windlass won't work, it could be a matter of life and death especially if your like me and run single handed much of the time. Tough to pull an anchor up and control the boat in heavy seas or storm conditions even with help. I had a close call with a freighter once. Ended up releaseing the bitter end with a life preserver tied to it in the hope i could retrieve my ground tackle after the frieghter went by. All ended fine. Please don't argue right of way with container ships :bang

Your wires coming from the windlass will connect to the solenoid as well as the wires coming from the battery all connect together at this location. So crimping on ring connectors of correct gauge will be used to secure to the solenoid.
Check your windlass wiring schematic and installation instructions and you should see how all this connects. You will also need the remote up and down switches to consider.

When I installed the windlass on my Sundancer, I used a power post connector in the anchor locker to connect the windlass' wire with the heavy gauge. Be sure to use a rubber boot. I also took an extra step and used adhesive-lined shrink tube and Tef-Gel on all (open, such as ring terminals) connections.

Here is a good pic link of how it all connects. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Goldd ... wiring.gif

For the bow connection of different gauge wires, I use these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AWP7OG/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend you run dedicated power all the way from the source (battery) to the reversing relay, and on to the windlass. Grady White pre-wired some models from the helm to the bow, but recommended taking power from the regular house feed to the helm. This is foolish, as the main power run is only a 40-amp breaker. You will need a breaker for this dedicated feed, located aft within a few feet of the batteries.

I have done several windlass installations this way, and it works best.

Brian

ocnslr said:

For the bow connection of different gauge wires, I use these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AWP7OG/ref=oh_details_o06_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend you run dedicated power all the way from the source (battery) to the reversing relay, and on to the windlass. Grady White pre-wired some models from the helm to the bow, but recommended taking power from the regular house feed to the helm. This is foolish, as the main power run is only a 40-amp breaker. You will need a breaker for this dedicated feed, located aft within a few feet of the batteries.

I have done several windlass installations this way, and it works best.

Brian

Click to expand...

Not only is it foolish and unacceptable, you will find out that every time you use the windlass your plotter and or FF may reset
To be fair though, there are smaller windlasses that will run on a 30 amp breaker so tying into the 40 amp feed is not a safety issue but still can result in low voltages at some accessories and that may cause low voltage resets of some plotters etc.

Agree with Brian. Put my breaker next to battery. I added 2 house batteries tied in parallel and added aux. chargers from motors to keep them up. I start the motors when using the windlass and so far, no issue with power to HDS units with this method.