Hardtop Replacement Project

So I have started the process of replacing the hardtop with the new one that Grady sent me. First step was getting the old one off and that was a pain. But it makes a great template.


The boat looks pretty bare without the top on. Putting up the shelter was a great idea for storage. Make early season work a breeze.





We put the new top up and lined it up perfectly. We then drilled the new holes through the existing hardtop holes to make sure they are in the perfect spot and took it back down. It is in the basement where we can work on it. The foam core one ways much less than the water soaked balsa cored one. I will update as we make progress.

The holes in the hardtop were not sealed properly and the balsa soaked up the water. There is and extensive thread on my purchase and the hardtop saga here.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17135

You need to vigilant in the inspection of the top and how every hole in it is sealed. Check it with a moisture meter to see if any water has gotten in already. In the northeast where it freezes when the water gets and is not gone by winter an even worse issue occurs. It freezes and when water freezes it expands causing the top to crack and delaminate. Once that happens the top is on the way out.

Look for any cracks in the hardtop. If you have any then it could be a really big issue. If not then be vigilant on the sealing on the holes up there. And any new holes you drill should be epoxied which it the correct way I now know to seal a hole in anything that is cored. It is a time consuming process but can save your boat.

My new top from Grady is foam cored and I am still going through the epoxy process to make sure there is new an issue. The process that I am using is the following:
- Drill the hole
- Then remove some of the core from inside the hole. We use an allen wrench ground down with a point on a drill.
- Tape the bottom of the hole and fill with a thickened epoxy that is mixed with a filler.
- Let it cure
- Re-drill the hole and screw or bolt the device and I will still use 4200 or 5200 on the hole as an extra measure.

The epoxy creates a plug that also helps with compression while it seals so it truly is worth the effort. Most if not all boat installers never go to this length for some reason and it can be a real problem. Even the boat manufacturers do not do this. But all my research and talking to fiberglass guys says that I am approachin it the correct way. You can go the other routes but they can fail and I know what happens when that occurs.

I have a document that is a PDF that I cannot attach. I will try to find a way to get it up here. It is a great reference.

I use the west marine stuff. I bet some will say there are better brands but it is easy for me to get this one. I found the attached document on a site Bertram31 from a guy who has done alot of restore work and it outlines the process perfectly.

Progress is coming along

With the nice weather it has me motivated to complete this project. We have got all the holes drilled and sealed with epoxy. This should make her bulletproof this time. Have and interesting radar mounting that will reduce my clearance height while towing to below 13'6" is the hope. I was over last year.

Here are the updated pictures.

VHF Holes


Radar Mount Holes


Outrigger Holes

trophy25 said:

Hi,
I just started to take my hardtop off for a repaint. I took all the bolts out and then realized that it has some kind of caulk sealing it to the frame. I thought that with my sawsall I could just use a long blade and rip right through the stuff and pop the top off. Not so. Did you encounter the same issue and after getting the nuts and bolts out how did you break the seal with out damaging the top. I'm afraid if I try to pry it off I'll crack the top.

thanks for any help.

john

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Yes it was a total pain to release. The bolts were not what were holding it on. We used a utility knife and cut the sealant out with alot of new blades. The stuff is really in there. Then two of us worked it together with 2 flat bars and a knife each starting at a bow corner and working to and around the stern and then back to the bow. Be gentle with the bars and we just used them to pry and cut next one in pry and cut. Took an hour or 2 to free it and we swore GW the entire time. That thing was one with the hardtop. It is a suction situation once we freed the sides and stern up we had the leverage to break the front. Oh good memories thanks for reminding me of that nightmare.

Wish I had thought of that fishing line trick. I would try that first for sure. It will still be hard to get up I am betting. Also caouple of other tips the guy who helped reminded me of. Get new bolts or at least check all your old ones. Ours had some messed up threads.

Also the black rubber gasket under the top is important and make sure you replace it. It prevents the top from squeaking it is for dampening more than sealing. GW part # 25-005 and the vendor is Clean Seal, Inc (800-366-3682). The vendor item # is 1076H3-500DC DIE # 1076H3 . http://www.cleanseal.com/ribbed.htm It was $1.50 per foot and you split it in half to use the 2 sides. Get some extra it will handy to have around for other places on the boat.

And the GE Silicone II Door and Window Almond is a perfect match.

We got a bunch done today so I will post some updates.

Here is the progress so far we are getting some stuff mounted and sealed. Notice how well the caulking blends it is the GE stuff.

Here is some of the electronics mounting so far.

richie rich said:

Thats coming out nice...

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Just wait will post some pics tomorrow made a couple of customers plates. And working on some custom outrigger brackets will make sure they do not cause harm to the new top.
.

Almost done. Well finally got the outrigger brackets finished and mounted up. These should eliminate any issue of the outriggers mounted up there. Sent them out to powder coat today so should not be long.

Hardtop Replacement Project COMPLETE

Finished the project this evening after getting the mounts back from powder coat. I will say the mounts are the best way to go and they really strengthen the outriggers in that area. Glad I made them and took the extra time to do this. Here are the pictures on them.

Last 2 Pics Wide front shots. Looks like OEM equipment from this angle.