Remove cabin dome light, 282 Sailfish

LouisR

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Hi All, I am after some help removing the Perko dome light in the cabin of my 2002 282 Sailfish.
The light was working intermittently, but now not at all, and I think it is the press button switch or a loose connection.
I have removed the clear lens cover and unscrewed the two base plate screws, but I can not remove it. It seems really solid.
I have read elsewhere on this site that there is a bezel. I can see an eighth of an inch black plastic base around the outside of the white metal base. Is that the bezel and is the metal base held inside the black plastic base? If so how do i pop it out?
What am I missing? Thanks for any help. I am refurbishing what is a great fishing boat; now upgrading many of of my electrics and this little problem has me stumped.
LouisR
 

rpc

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I had the same problem with my dome lights. Needed to replace the switches. Mine were held up with just 2 screws in the base of the light. I took the lens off and the 2 screws inside. Yours might be held on with some calking.
 

LouisR

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Thanks RPC for your feedback. That's exactly what I am afraid of. If it is glued to the roof liner (which is otherwise in as-new condition), the liner will be ruined if i try to apply more force. Let's see if I get anything else that's helpful. From there I will need to innovate!
LouisR
 

DennisG01

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I'm not familiar with your exact light, but..

Try using a plastic putty knife or fishing line between the light base and the headliner. It may just be "heat stuck". It would be kinda strange for someone to use some type of adhesive when two screws are more than enough to hold a little light. Unless there was somehow a leak through the light and a previous owner did a "bandaid" fix.
 

LouisR

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For the record, I got the light off; it was 'heat bonded' onto the roof liner after the boat's many years in the sun. I could not believe how much twisting force was required to pop it off. A small spot of damage to the roof liner behind the light fitting where it was most stuck. The power problem was actually corrosion in a connector, not the switch itself. All fixed now. Thanks for the advice because without the knowledge that I was on the right track, I would not have been prepared to apply so much force to break it free. Cheers, LouisR