Recent content by duconce

Sims sells drain pain for 16 dollars, works great. You may want to buy your filters there also, @22ea.

you might also check the o-rings on the fuel caps , they crack and leak

At the stern on both sides lift the hinged doors on top, take the trays out see batteries

I replaced mine with a Norcold DE-0740 AC/Dc that switches automatically, it is not as quiet as I would like, but it works great. Would probably find a quieter model, on a do over.

If you get no replies, call Ken at PropGods

It would be more helpful to give the current motors and props, you have.

The f150 yamaha I had on another boat came with a 14 1/4x 17 SS prop, I would, as pointed out, think that trim or elevation or both might be the problem.

I put 2 31s and a 27 in mine so they fit, put AGM on the port and deep cycle on the starboard. Hope I never have to take that AGM out, that sucker is heavy and a tight fit going in.

Is the steering wheel and throttle in the back for the kicker?

I am adding a lewmar vent, the heads really should have a better setup with hatch window.

Regardless if you spend $50 each, it's better than 500-800 for new and you get a better chrome job.

I thought I would mention that this fuel situation is not just with boats. New Corvettes where having problems with the fuel tank gauge, it just quits working, the problem was the floats quit working because of sulfur and other materials [ e fuels]. The cure was a can of Techron or Seafoam...

You might also want to look at a product called Sharkhide Metal Restorer, way less involved as taking top off.

Personally I would buy the kit, it comes with everything you need. I would also change the 2 seals below the pump if they are 4 yrs old. It only requires removing the 4 bolts that hold the seal housing in place. The water pump sits on top of these and they are the most likely to leak. As far as...

Forward fills the main tank.