Recent content by seasick

On brass plugs, I apply a few turns of tape. It make tightness easier to judge and more importantly, it makes it easier to pull the plug in the off season.

The legacy plumbing for plumbing is a real pain to use especially when, as mentioned, you have two motors close to each other. One of my previous boats had Mercs and the flush quickconnect flush fitting was on the back side middle of the engine. That was so much easier to work with.

To be totally honest, Not all 'bad' drops will kill the network. When the tap or the connected equipment corrupts or shorts a data lead on the drop, all devices will be effected.

try whacking the pump motor housing a few medium taps with a hammer. Try that all by it self as well as while pressing the tilt switch. That wont fix your issue but it may get the pump to run a bit, enough to lift the unit.

Just curious. Does the pump make any noise when you try to activate it?

A bad drop can cause all drops to be bad ( no communications). Try breaking down the network into small sections of say one device at a time and see if you have any communications. Of course it is important to always have the power drop connected. Don't fotget to add terminators on the ends of...

I like the 'rope' explanation. First of all, salt water doesn't eat away paint that applied to the composite material that the cowling is made with.. If the damage is chaffing due to dock lines, I would think that aft lines were crisscrossed against the motor. The upper cowling must have been...

I couldn't find a exact match for that year but in early 2000 and later the seat was similar but not identical. https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2002-grady-white-sportsman-180-10258297/ Hopefully you have the cushion.

Knowing the dimensions of that tank isn't going to help make the gauges readings more accurate due to the fact that the tanks is rarely sitting level and even if it sat level with no-one on the boat, the reading will change when you climb aboard, add load or even walk aft. All of those actions...

You can see the list of components and part numbers on the CPC web site at https://www.cpcworldwide.com/Portals/0/Downloadable-Content/COR/Literature/Spec-Sheets/CPC-HFC35-57-Spec-Sheet.pdf I see that some of the CPC products are listed on Amazon, I found only a few and don't know if those are...

What to use depends on a few factors, the main one being how bad/deep the oxidation is. The goal is to use the least abrasive product that will remove the oxidation. Don't wet sand if you can remove the oxidation with a less aggressive compound.. Experiment with a medium grit compound and see...

If you are near a camping/RV shop, you can get many products that will work for your situation. In general RV supplies are less expensive than a marine store. Amazon is also a source. Here is an example...

I am not sure if you are asking about the actual cleat or if you are asking about where to mount the cleat. In either case Denis's answer is sound advice.

Don't know about colors. I have a blue hull and went with blue fenders and blue lines. As to line size, the 'correct' diameter depends on the cleat size (length). A rule of thumb is that the length of the dock cleat in inches times 1/16 inch. So an 8 inch cleat calls for a 1/2 inch line...

Great to have you posting on the board!