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How long are these flats on the hull? Is there enough for a 13 inch fairing block with the transducer? My boat is in the water and I can only see the top.

The hull is a 1996 and the engones are 2002. The weight difference in the two strokes and four strokes really is not that much and I think the transom should support it. I'll probably drill a few small holes to check the wood. I'm trailering the boat again next week so I'm going to mark the...

OX66 is about 540 pounds and the F225 is about 600 pounds. The boat is rated for a maximum of twin 225 HP so it's already at the limit and that was before grady knew that the four strokes would come out. I'm not sure an extra 120 pounds makes a difference, but technically it's more weight than...

Actually the aluminum like Dennis said in your first post is basically the same idea.

That got geometric really quickly. I'm thinking like you said, run a support downward and forward at a 45 degree angle, through the thin fiberglass of the motorwell and tie it into the stringer on each side.this would basically help take the weight off of those pressure points. Or just shore...

I was kind of thinking something like that. Currently the engines sit on the transom which doesn't have any triangular joints. It doesn't take an engineer to know that right angles aren't the strongest, and this is right where the cracks have appeared.

Sorry for the cold sweat! So, I used a leather mallet and thumped the entire transom. There are no hollow spots. I used a camera on the inside of the hull and all appears normal. I tilted the motors about 50% and had a friend put his full 220 pound on the lower unit and bounce it up and down...

Ok, Ill stand on the cavitation plate (is that the correct word?) and bounce up and down. The thought kind of scares me, but i guess this shouldn't be too much since the engine weighs a lot already. Should i have the engine trimmed down or a little bit of an angle?

So I should put some weight on one of the engines and see if there are any noises or obvious movement?

I'm replacing the electric primers with the manual bulbs on my 272 Sailfish. One of my primers stopped working which left the engine dead... To me it isn't worth it to have an electric pump when I can just prime it by hand and know it is likely to never fail again. I added two Yamaha OEM Primer...

Is your tank itself damaged? Seems like a lot of work to replace if you could just give it a good cleaning and replace the lines. The lines are usually where the "gunk" comes from which clogs filters and injectors.

By fuel pump do you mean one of the old electric fuel primers? or a primer bulb?

So, I think it was a bad idea to google this before asking on this forum. I also read a few threads on here, and none had the same issue as me. But, now i'm pretty freaked out. I guess it's similar to doing an internet search for your health problems... Anyway, I have some deep cracks to the gel...

I haven't completely diagnosed an issue with my starboard engine (2002 Yamaha F225) yet, but it seems to not be getting fuel. My port engine runs great, but the starboard one turns strong just won't come on. I have read that these boats (1996 Sailfish 272) have fuel primers which I think I have...