Search results

I upgraded RA70 to RA770 and it was plug and play. Different side unit though. Used a faceplate.

Which switch did you activate pump out? Mine is on a small panel in the head. It has a fuse, push button and a few tank level lights. Also a green power indicator. The fuse on this panel will pop if there are pump problems. No other circuit breaker. The tank is behind the toilet. Remove screws...

The real value in a survey is protecting you from the big expenses not the silly stuff. Transom integrity, fuel tanks and hull condition. They don't usually do engines. These are the big "latent defects" that will cost you down the road. You really should listen to surveyor. Watch him and look...

As ShunkBoat says mask things to control where the epoxy goes. Don't make more work for yourself with a mess. Masking tape is ok for paint but epoxy sticks to it. Plastic film is good - just tape in place. I also use a fabric release film to make a moldable dam for epoxy in place. Tear it off...

Could be the vented fuel fills. Most time I climb up the ladder to get on the the boat up on the trailer I smell gas as I pass the vent.

All the circuits he is having trouble with are on the panel not on the fuse block and buss bar. Maybe ground wires are there.Here is a rough diagram of the panel. It was intended for my use so it's a little rough but it may help. Lots of wires but the diagram will help you understand what you...

My strip came loose by the tower. I Put a few screws with finish washers in it. Maybe someone found the material - I thought I saw a post about it.

Like you I'm running the old ones. SeaShift didn't say why he can't use the old ones. I didn't look but is it possible to open them up? Maybe it's just an o-ring rebuild.

No it doesn't make sense. The old style doesn't seem to be available. You may be able to put 90 degree connectors on it and make it work. I'll bet handle can be removed and re-indexed to make it work.

Don't panic just yet! I have an identical panel to yours on my 268 Islander that I'm currently rebuilding. There is a RED main power feed to a ORANGE buss that feeds all the breakers. Sounds like you may have some corrosion issues. Test things by wiggling the connectors on the breakers and...

Excuse the dirt. They have since been cleaned up. My original GW fuel valves. First question is why are you changing them? Second is what do your old ones look like (photo please)? They look like they are out of the boat. What you are saying about 90 degrees makes no sense. Maybe the handle is...

Which colors did you select? Does it light the panel up like this? I'm really trying to avoid all the light leaking out from under the switch. I did see a Carling VM6-01 mounting panel. Puts the switches next to each other and wraps the edge. Mounts in switch panel. May be a better open for me.

Can you get underneath it from inside the boat? Any wires? SIRUS antenna is a good call. My antenna isn't mounted and it's sensitive about having a good sky view. Put foil or a frying pan over it and see if your SIRIUS radio still works.

Could be a bumper. What is the stainless thingie in front of it? Boat model please.

The single position switches wire the "on" light in. The dual position switches leave the wiring to you. Top and bottom row are lighting. Top row is used for backlighting. Typically the gauge and panel lights are tied into the NAV lights. When the NAV lights...

I'm undecided on blue vs. red. I rarely use the boat in the dark. No canyon runs. No lighting on my oval switches now. I could live without lighting but I like the etched Contura V switches and the lighting is "free". Maybe what I'll do is go red. Do you think I'll need a dimmer?

Were the fill and drain plugs really tight?

My Islander interior rod holders. Original GW factory. Excuse the mess. They work great. 6 rods on port side. 2 on starboard. You can jamb more in with velcro straps. Port side has 2 more I use for short kite rods. Some pics of the holders..

They are not difficult to make. Can be done on a regular sewing machine. Hard part is the parts. You need a strip with snaps attached (Sailrite has it) to attach to the track. Don't wash them unless you do it by hand. They will fall apart. They are lined but you can make them double sided. They...

The motor is original GW part. The wiper is probably an Ancor automotive black anodized aluminum. Originals were stainless "school bus" type. The lid does flip up and is part of the wiper arm. The arm attaches to the splined shaft and has a setscrew to retain it. I removed my wipers and horn...