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It’s pretty tough material. Now that I got the nut off, I can’t even remove my wrench from the Delrin socket. I used a metric size wrench and it fit perfectly. Maybe too well. Thought I’d leave it till I re-install and then wrestle with separating the wrench and Delrin socket.

Even with the nut driver and a big wrench, the nut was a bear to remove. Would have been tough with a crescent wrench.

Here’s what I found to remove the nut. Once it was off, the wheel came right off without a wheel puller.

This is an old thread that explains it is the threaded nut that holds the wheel in place, not a cosmetic cap. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/steering-wheel-cap-removal.33381/

Mine is definitely original equipment. Would that make it Edson or Lewmar? Good idea on utube.

No idea whether it's an Edson wheel. I just assumed it was a cover nut that would screw off. It would be nice if it is a pop off nut. I thought I might try a plastic razor blade or stronger non scratching piece and try to create a gap to where I could try to pop it off with a screwdriver.

I cut some plastic pads, taping them in place, but the heavy duty crescent wrench was just too large and cumbersome preventing me from tightening it down on the plastic pads. Once I find the correct size crescent wrench, I'll try again.

My steering is sucking air from somewhere in the helm. It's leaking fluid slightly from underneath the tilt button housing as well as from the backside. My mechanic said the remove the housing to inspect, thus the need to remove the wheel.

No way to do it with your hand. My crescent wrench's opening is about 1/4" too small. Have a large heavy duty one, but's just too cumbersome. I tried vice grips with a rag and left a few marks. Am looking for another crescent wrench to try again.

LoopyO, in my 2011 225, as stated by Hookup1, the drain tubes attached to the bow cup holders run through the carpet holes into the bilge.

Does anyone know how to remove this cosmetic steering wheel hub nut without scuffing it up? I need to access the real nut that holds the steering wheel in place to remove the wheel to check a fluid leak.

GW started using XL Greenwood in ‘97 or ‘98.

I have a 2011 225.I’m 6 feet and when standing at helm, I believe I’m looking over windshield. Sitting in helm seat, I’m behind the the windshield. I’m very happy with the boat.

Greenwood XL plywood started in 97 or 98, I believe. It’s no rot wood, not composite. The wood itself has a lifetime warranty for the wood itself, no labor or other materials, warranted by Greenwood, not Grady.

I've ground it down to bare metal best I can, coated with epoxy primer and will top coat it with matching Imron.

Armstrong bracket rep says paint it because continuity flows through the attachment bolt secured with a nut and star washer on inside of bracket.

Good point, but I don't understand why it was painted at the factory.

The bracket had factory paint under the zinc. Note the picture. The old corroded zinc still retains the original size and very close to the weight of the replacement.

I have a 2011 model Freedom 225 with an aluminum bracket/platform. I bought it new in 2013 and have always kept it out of the water on a JetDock. Boat probably has less than 200 total hours on it and is seldom left in the water overnight. During recent servicing the motor, I noticed the zinc on...

I have a Freedom 225 with a 250 and don't know the exact top speed, but it's plenty fast even with the added weight of a hardtop. I'd think a 225 would be adequate. A 200, maybe.