Search results

Hi guys. I posted in tips, but figured there may be more traffic here. I'm doing the dreaded task of tank and fuel lines on my 1993 24' Explorer. I've done a search and read about some of the pitfalls I'm about to incur. For those that tackled this task on similar boats, how much fuel hose was...

Hi guys. I'm doing the dreaded task of tank and fuel lines on my 1993 24' Explorer. I've done a search and read about some of the pitfalls I'm about to incur. For those that tackled this task on similar boats, how much fuel hose was needed for the fill and vent? When pulling and running the new...

Hey Robert. That speaker idea is great. What did you use to seal them? Have they survived the elements? How difficult was running the speaker wire on port and starboard sides? Thanks,

I'm thinking about tackling the thru hull fittings and replacing with stainless. Do you guys typically replace the plastic drain fitting at the bottom of the 3 fishboxes as well? Is there a suitable replacement part for these plastic drains? Thanks,

Yes. If I wanted to spend the money, and add the extra weight.

I just picked up a Lumitec Caprera 2. A little more coin, but looks mint. Dual color white/Red too. I really like the idea of the red light option.

I don't have a bimini. Essentially I have a hard top, except the top is not 'glass. Its sunbrella canvas. An arch is not a possibility.

Hey Guys! My 24 Grady has an aluminum hardtop frame thats finished with a dark blue sunbrella softtop. How can I go about mounting accessories ontop of the canvas, without compromising its integrity. First off, I want to install an LED mast/anchor light, and possibly radar. How do you go about...

I have a 93 Explorer w/pulpit. Who has their windlass on similar boat model mounted to the puplit vs mounted to the locker door. Any issues with the rode buncking w/ the windlass mounted to the pulpit. I know theres more room if its mounted to the locker door, but I'd hate loosing access to the...

OK, thanks, if mounted in the location of the lifting eye, are you able to install a structural cleat forward of the windlass. I would like to be able to tie off and feel confident that I can drive out any hung anchor with unreasonable stress on the boat. thanks,

I'm trying to determine where to mount the windlass. Where are they mounted at the factory, on the Explorer, Overnighter, Chase, Sailfish, etc - on the pulpit, or aft of the pulpit on anchor locker door. For simplicity sake, it seems easier to mount on the pulpit, but I don't like the idea of...

I'm trying to determine where to mount the windlass. Where are they mounted at the factory - on the pulpit, or aft of the pulpit on anchor locker door. For simplicity sake, it seems easier to mount on the pulpit, but I don't like the idea of loosing the lifting eye? Where are yours mounted??

Hey Adam, so is the windlass mounted right on top of the door? Thanks,

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if the cleat is still tied into the bow hook, or just bolted thru the pulpit. Is the anchor locker door still in place?

I also see that we are from the same general vacinity. Have you contacted Raybo for quote?

I'm dealing with the same dillema on my 24. I would prefer to leave the forward ring/cleat as that is a structural component. Theoretically you are still supposed to cleat off the rode even with the windlass. I think I am going to reinforce the locker door with some 3/4 ply and go from there.

It should have a forward bilge with seperate pump.

On my old seafarer the doors were teak. The cockpit side of the cabin wall was that fake stuff. Got real dull and looked horrible. I rubbed in the oil portion of two part teak refinishing system. It actually worked pretty good and lasted for a couple years.

I would like to add the lemar profish 700 to my 93 explorer. The boat is already equipped with a pulpit. I would like to keep the bow cleat in place as it is structurally tied into the bow hook and I would still like to cleat the rode off while using the windlass. Has anyone done this...