CJ7Rob
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Thru Hull Hose Replacement
- Thread starter Sdfish
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SirGrady226
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This is what I used for all but two, the two bilge fittings were for 3/4" hose and all others 1" hose. The two very front floor drains have a grey PVC elbow that the through hull fitting has to screw into, so the hose nipple gets cut off down to where the threads start. The threads on these new fittings are ever so slightly larger, I wrapped sand paper around them and rotated it to slightly reduce the size. They will only thread in around four turns, but I used thread sealer to insure a sealed fit. It was a very big challenge doing these, if it were not for my problem solving, and never give up attitude, I don't think it would of been doable. I actually made my own spanner wrench out of 1/4" plywood for the retaining nuts, there just isn't enough room for a big Cresent wrench or other tool.
A couple very important things to note, first is that it's very easy to cross thread the big retaining nut since there are two flat notches at the end of the threads for a wrench to be used. These notches make it easy to cross thread, trust me when I say you don't want this to happen. Second is the barbs that the new fittings have really hold, once the hose is slid over these, it will not pull off even with soap or grease in there. So make sure you have everything correct before attaching the hose. Third is the hose clamps, one of the hardest things to do is get a wrench, nut driver, or screw driver on the clamps. It is all done by feel and the clamp always wants to spin when you need it to stay in a certain position. You have to tighten the clamp just enough to slide over the hose and still be a little snug. Not one part of this job is easy, if someone offered me a few grand to do their boat, I'd pass!
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CJ7Rob
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This is what I used for all but two, the two bilge fittings were for 3/4" hose and all others 1" hose. The two very front floor drains have a grey PVC elbow that the through hull fitting has to screw into, so the hose nipple gets cut off down to where the threads start. The threads on these new fittings are ever so slightly larger, I wrapped sand paper around them and rotated it to slightly reduce the size. They will only thread in around four turns, but I used thread sealer to insure a sealed fit. It was a very big challenge doing these, if it were not for my problem solving, and never give up attitude, I don't think it would of been doable. I actually made my own spanner wrench out of 1/4" plywood for the retaining nuts, there just isn't enough room for a big Cresent wrench or other tool.
A couple very important things to note, first is that it's very easy to cross thread the big retaining nut since there are two flat notches at the end of the threads for a wrench to be used. These notches make it easy to cross thread, trust me when I say you don't want this to happen. Second is the barbs that the new fittings have really hold, once the hose is slid over these, it will not pull off even with soap or grease in there. So make sure you have everything correct before attaching the hose. Third is the hose clamps, one of the hardest things to do is get a wrench, nut driver, or screw driver on the clamps. It is all done by feel and the clamp always wants to spin when you need it to stay in a certain position. You have to tighten the clamp just enough to slide over the hose and still be a little snug. Not one part of this job is easy, if someone offered me a few grand to do their boat, I'd pass!
View attachment 9911
Thank You, this is great advice and info. Did you also change the hoses too or used your originals?
SirGrady226
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I changed the hoses on the live wells and bilge pumps, the floor drain hoses were very good condition and still flexible so they stayed.
SirGrady226
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After having a few of the old fittings just snap off by putting just a little tug on them, it became clear to me that this problem could overwhelm a bilge pump in the right circumstances and sink the boat. I found that the black hose that was used to connect to the fittings in my boat had held up very well with no signs of failing, it is was very high quality for obvious reasons. The two front floor drains most likely saw the least amount of use over the 33 years, thus the hose was still flexible and almost like new. The cooler / fish box drains and live well drains needed the black hose replaced simply because it was so stiff, you had to slice it to get it off the nipples on the fittings. I also replaced most of the clamps, two were actually rusted through and falling apart. I'm so glad to have this finished, the worry that any of them could fail at any time is gone. It is one of the last concerns I had with a 33 year old boat, well, other than my 33 year old relic outboards that still run very impressively
. Fuel economy is my only complaint. 
A palm ratchet may be the answer to some of those hard to reach hose clamps.
Got her done! Double clamped all. The original hoses were in great condition, replaced all anyway. Feel much better now!
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Darn Seasick.... I don't have it in me to fix that. I'm going to pretend you I did not read your post.
When replacing the hoses, how did you end up reconnecting the hoses to the internal connections? On my 228, the external connection points are easy, but I don't see some of where the hoses connect to in the iceboxes, etc. Did you just pull up those drains, reconnect the hose, fed back through and reseated them?
I only did the supper hoses and the bilge hose. I haven’t got into the livewell or fish box yet