Anyone know this part number?

RussGW270

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So, finally pulled the fuse....no part number. The screw threads are broken off for the cap, so need to replace.

tried to get the part number for the one next to it. I saw a brand name looked like it started with a “S” or “Sh”? But rubbed right off. The rest are white.
Looks like I need a few, others are broken, just not falling off like the button this was covered by.

anyone have a name this may be or link to good replacement with threads on it?

thanks guys

Russ
 

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RussGW270

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Ooohhh scrapped it more and this came up! I am all over it like white on rice;).

here is a picture of the side now (have not found the maker)

Russ
 

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RussGW270

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Okay, finding lots of choices...I am not an electrician...so, are these a/c or d/c or does it matter?

i think it does, and not all say which, but one did. I think this is a 10-amp, but not positive.

not a lot of details on these things.
Sorry for all the questions. I also forgot to take the main toggle breaker off in the cabin, the toggle is broken.
Need to see what that one is as well so I can replace it too.

R
 

RussGW270

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It is the circuit breaker on the dash panel. The manual says N/A for the fuel switch...which is where it goes, hence why this is a pita to figure out. Will look at your thread, thanks.

R
 

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I was reading this thread yesterday, about new switch covers, and I remembered that pics of KY Grady and cbau50 did not have a breaker above their fuel switch. Probably why the manual said N/A.
Was it wired, or was it just holding a place in the panel?
 

RussGW270

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Thanks. I figured what the switch was, just wish they had printed the part numbers. That link, however, gives me the idea to call that place today and see if I can order the breakers, thanks;)
 

RussGW270

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Okay, so my goal today will be two of those breakers and a replacement for this main one.

I may look at the cost of a whole new panel heh

Okay, the e-panel builder will not let me build one the same size etc. It is being a pain. I also noticed that the horn and the wipers do not have a circuit breaker, so.. will see what I have available. Do not want to do fiberglass work to fit a new custom panel in, but am okay if it is a little taller. I think I can add another inch to the height and maybe half inch to the width to make more room. Currently, the panel is 11" wide x 6.5" tall.
 

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seasick

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Okay, finding lots of choices...I am not an electrician...so, are these a/c or d/c or does it matter?

i think it does, and not all say which, but one did. I think this is a 10-amp, but not positive.

not a lot of details on these things.
Sorry for all the questions. I also forgot to take the main toggle breaker off in the cabin, the toggle is broken.
Need to see what that one is as well so I can replace it too.

R
A breaker will usually have two ratings: one for AC applications and one for DC. In both instances, your actual requirement and situation dictates what specs to verify. So if your application is 12v dc, the breaker should list at least a 12v or higher DC rating. ( some may have a 12v and a 24v capacity listed.
Note that a switch with an AC rating of say 120v/3 is not rated at 3 Amps at 12v DC unless it says so and usually the amperage will be different for AC and DC.
 
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RussGW270

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ok, so I think I found what I need. These appear to be 10amp, not 15, so was looking at the Blue Sea 7054 plus the rubber caps that screw onto them.


And also these:


That should fix the two I know are broken and I know I saw 10amp on them, before the writing wore off.. heh

R
 

RussGW270

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Actually, just found the breakers and boots for $5 each, plus $3.3 in shipping, on New Wire's website... so, 2 new breakers inc ;)

Some day, may spruce the boat up a bit with a new flashy dash, but it already has the carbon dash.. so.. eh.. 10 bucks :p

R
 

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Not exactly on topic but related...

Might be a good idea to coat the terminals/exposed metal on the back of the switch panel with No-Ox, dielectric grease, etc. my panel was original when I got the boat; nothing was used to protect the bare metal on the backside which likely led to premature failure of the breakers/switches. I figure it’s cheap insurance to keep new stuff working like new for as long as possible, especially if the boat will see saltwater use.
 
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