Looks Like I'm the Newest Member to the Club-Transom Restoration Begins

Late Again Grady

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The rebuild your transom club...Noticed the transom cap moving back and forth about and inch last Wednesday while coming in on the ICW. Upon further inspection, it appears the transom is rotten. Just had the boat repowered in May and the service manager at Marshall's Marine in Georgetown, SC assured me the transom was solid when he took off the old engines. Oh well, break out the sawsall.

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jcdubs58

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wow good luck what year and size is the boat
 

Paul_A

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Looks terminal. Surprised the installer didn't notice anything. The rust stains in the third picture look old to me.

From what I've seen here anytime someone repowers the bang strip should come off and a thorough inspection should occur.

Good luck!
 

glacierbaze

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I would expect to see large backing washers on the inside of the transom, not counter sunk bolt heads. Do they do that on purpose, to get through the chop, and down to the plywood
 

PointedRose

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I’d agree you’ve got some work ahead of you. I’m surprised the place doing the repower said the transom was good. Any of that in writing from them? Otherwise looks like a nice boat, so probably worth getting the work done.
 

Late Again Grady

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It's been a slow process but engines have been removed and fiberglass guy is starting to remove parts and pieces. I guess the sawsall comes out next.
 

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Paul_A

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Sorry you are going through this but as said it will be worth it when it's done.
 
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jmain

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Sorry to see that you are having to go through that. I am almost afraid to ask... how much is the estimate?
Also, are they putting new plywood in it, or are you going with a different (non-rotting) material?
Good luck!
 

Late Again Grady

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Sorry to see that you are having to go through that. I am almost afraid to ask... how much is the estimate?
Also, are they putting new plywood in it, or are you going with a different (non-rotting) material?
Good luck!
I don't mind telling. Estimate is $5K plus about 1500.00 for engine removal and replace. Going back in with coosa board instead of wood.
 

seasick

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What motors were mounted originally and what hp are the new motors?
 

seasick

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What was the HP rating on the originals. I ask because if you went up in horse power and with the added weight of 4 strokes, the transom may not have been strong enough. In the photo it looks a bit thin but it's hard to tell for sure.
 

Late Again Grady

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What was the HP rating on the originals. I ask because if you went up in horse power and with the added weight of 4 strokes, the transom may not have been strong enough. In the photo it looks a bit thin but it's hard to tell for sure.
Originals were 200 hp. Added roughly 250 lbs to transom. Transom is about 2" thick.

BTW...I installed the only engine Grady said would work on my boat.
 

jmain

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I don't mind telling. Estimate is $5K plus about 1500.00 for engine removal and replace. Going back in with coosa board instead of wood.
I guess that could be better or could be worse. I am fearful that I am going to have to do the same thing in the not too distant future.

Good luck! I hope it goes well.
 

ScottyCee

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Boat is rated for 500hp, at least the 1998 is. Mine with heavy old 2005 F225s has all the power it would ever need.

I was wondering if any of the "pourable" products would make an appearance. Those seem really appealing. (I too will probably be doing this job in the next year or two...)


 
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seasick

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It is very difficult to remove all rotted coring without opening up the transom. It is also difficult to get the pourable compound to spread into all the nooks and crannies.
Coosa would be my choice.
 

ScottyCee

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From what I read, a lot of guys open up the transom for removal of the rot and then close it back up prior to filling. Stinging the "pourable" products like concrete in a form (with a DA sander or something like that) is supposed to do a good job of distributing it. I guess some of them can be mixed pretty soft for good flow as well. But I haven't tried it yet - only studied...
 

Byram

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Its an interesting product for sure. If you were able to dig out the rot without removing the outside glass and pour, how does the new transom tie into the hull sides ? It seems the outer glass would be the only thing holding it in ?? Will continue research as I will probably join the club