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Provide your dealer with your results. Give them max RPM with a light to normal load when you have trimmed up as far as possible before ventilation or speed no longer increases. Speaking of trimming - did you do that, similar to what I mentioned?

This is a thread about steering - if you can start a new thread, it would be better. What you've done is affectionately called "hi-jacking" :)

I would assume a dealer could get that... maybe have it in stock? But besides that... what type of "pull" is it? Is it a solid pull like would be available at Lowe's? Or is it a "pop-out" style? If it's a pop-out style, maybe it's made by Hafele? I had that style in my Sea Ray.

While I can't help with your actual question, I think you're on the right track. I'd be worried about CO, as well - especially with someone possibly sleeping in the cabin - along with some other issues that come with portables - but that's not a discussion for here... just that I agree with...

If it's original, it will absolutely be glass. Do any boats with regular windshields actually use Plexi? But, since it's many years old, it could have been replaced - you'll have to ID which one it is - it's not hard to do - you'll figure it out. A razor blade will work if it's glass. A...

At nearly 30 years old, there could any number of styles wiper arms on there. Replacements depend on the arm/connection you have. We would need that info or a pic.

In many windshields, there is a rubber-ish-type gasket material in a channel along the base of the windshield. If you have that, simply pull it out to expose the screws. Be careful! You got lucky and didn't break the glass causing many thousands of dollars of damage... and possibly not even...

I totally missed that little, important, part when I read his initial post!

I should clarify, though, that MOST systems are a reverse-cycle. I don't know, but I "suppose" there are systems out there that are not - there by only being AC only. I can't say what's on the OP's boat at this point. But, yes, they do a nice job with heat... until the water gets too cold of...

Same as a home's heat pump - pump always works - basically, the compressor just goes into reverse.

Ah, that makes sense why a "temporary" latch type thing is used. Good point.

At this point anything is a possibility - you'll know more after some further investigation. Truthfully, anything else would be guessing right now.

Was water flowing out the thru-hull? Did you open the seacock? It's a heat pump - basically the same as a heat pump in a house, but it uses water as the medium instead of of air.

Could you use a barrell latch? It would be more secure in pounding seas. But I honetly don't know if the existing type of latch is/isn't secure enough to start with.

Thanks, Shift. Good luck - reparing electrical connections often becomes a 3-times bigger project than you initially think ;)

A more exact statement is that it's a fuse holder for a (currently) inoperative float switch ;) Please don't take this as offensive as it's meant as preventative... but you have A LOT of "ugly" going on there (which happens over time). There's a bunch of bad looking conenctions/wires - it...

I "assumed" when he said "manually" moved the engine he used the release valve... but good point - maybe he just pushed the engine really hard! :) But, yeah, more detail is important otherwise we end up just typing for no reason or going around in circles :)

Chris - he stated he only gets a clicking noise... no motor noise is made.

Go boating. Hammer down. As noted, a break-in procedure doesn't apply here. It's mostly about your gear set - making sure they mesh nicely.

If it "wasn't" a click like you get when starting an engine... what WAS it like? That would help more :) Did it then trim down fine? Where did you check for V? Need much more detail. Sounds more like a relay issue, though. Check for power on both sides.