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That looks like an air void from initial glass layup at the factory. I've seen it plenty of times. As noted above, first step is to grind away till you get to solid glass... the final repair will depend on how big the actual void/hole is... which you won't really know till you start grinding...

Try googling for "side mount" fishing rod holder.

Huh? I think we need a better description of what you're talking about. Actually, pictures would be good, too.

Did you try reaching out to Bennett directly? If not, start there.

The cylinder is screwed to the transom. There is an extension nipple (on the inside) screwed into the mount that attaches to the hull. The hyd line is screwed to the other end of the nipple.

That's good. That means the issue leans towards the probability of just having a bum battery.

Keep in mind, that to fully help, we can only use the information that you provide :) Did you have good charging voltage from both sources?

Checking a battery for voltage doesn't (definitively) tell if it's bad. Charging it fully and then load testing does, however. Just seeing low voltage doesn't tell the whole story (see my post above).

When I mentioned checking voltage, above, I meant directly at the battery. Need to first figure out if the issue is upstream or downstream of the batteries.

This can be a fun project - but I don't think it's something you want to try and create before having the existing panel in your hand. Nothing against any of the guys here, but to make this look GOOD, your dimensions need to pretty much dead-on and you don't want to rely on some guy's...

Easier solution.... Check for charging voltage (via both battery charger and engine running). If good, disconnect the cables at the batteries and load test each battery. Replace the bad one... and the other one unless it's recently replaced.

What does it cover?

A scothpad or a stiff bristled brush will work. It doesn't take much to get the wax off. Always always always do multiple tests/trials with gel coloring - like paint, the dried color is different than the wet color. Label each test with exactly how many drops of each color you use and the...

It sounds like you pretty much have it figured out. Was there something specific you were curious about? For places like hard top feet, that's a great place to use butyl rubber tape. BRT puts silicone/caulks to shame :)

I did - it's getting awful close to the "need" to do it. But it also depends on how the boat will be used - if it will end up being trailered, then it's less of an issue. If it will be going in a slip, I'd change it for piece of mind.

No, I don't. I've only ever sent the compass back to Ritchie and it comes back looking like new. It was a while ago that I did that - don't recall price. But I know there have been plenty of others that have done it, too. Call them and ask them before you go too far?

No, not at all. You weren't incorrect in any way. But often people read these threads and I only wanted to add some extra clarification. I guess using the term "correctness" was meant more in a very general way... but maybe it wasn't the "correct" choice of words... ;)

Well... for the sake of "correctness" :) it can be used on any boat with a thru-hull pickup, regardless of style of boat. An inboard/v-drive ski boat... a v-drive/inboard cruiser... a sterndrive boat with a B3 that was reconfigured to thru-hull... a generator... air conditioning...

For "tilt" suppose ideas... sometimes you can simply use a 2x in the right spot :)

The anode is doing it's job - that's what they are designed to do. That is a GOOD thing. It's still "decent" - but it's getting close to replacement time. The trim pump - it happens - pretty normal. It starts at the crack between the top cap and body as that's a "hard" edge that doesn't hold...