1978 Hatteras 204-C Restoration

Hatteras204-C

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Hello Grady owners,
I am new to this forum and appreciate your Grady guidance! I am in the process of restoring a 20' 1978 Hatteras Overnighter. This is my first big boat project and I am really enjoying it. For a 44 year old boat, the hull is in great shape. She seems practically bullet proof. But, the transom (wood core) is rotten and the stringers have seen better days. My plan is to separate the deck from the hull using a crane/pully system to replace the rotten wood structures. My question is, am I going about this the right way? Is there a better way...aside from buying a new boat? :) Thank you in advance for your insight.

Cheers,
Brad
 

Hatteras204-C

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Hmmm.....so, anyone have experience lifting the deck from the hull? My assumption is that they will separate. But, if they don't, my next COA is to cut out the deck to expose the transom and stringers. Thoughts?
 

Hatteras204-C

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Hatteras204-C

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Sorry, Hatteras "Overnighter". I am still in the early stages of the project. But, I am getting close to the real work.
 

Hatteras204-C

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Any thoughts on my proposed CAO to separate the deck and hull? I am a little concerned that there maybe some extra resin that sealed the deck and hull together. But, I can't tell. I guess, I will find out when I try and do the lift. I appreciate any comments and or helpful hints.
 

coldpizza

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Sorry, can't help but thanks for sharing the cool pictures of a vintage GW. I always like a 'lapstrake' looking hull. Good like with the restore.
 

seasick

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I don't know what Grady used to bond the deck mold to the hull back then. These days an industrial 'super' glue' adhesive is used and it is very difficult if not impossible to just separate the parts. In your case, you need to remove any rub rail and then any screws that hold the deck to the hull. Then you need to chip/cut/scrape out ant sealant or caulk that you see on the lip of the deck where it lays over the hull. Then the fun part starts. You will have to see if you can get any sections of the deck mold to separate. You can try hammering blunt wooden wedges up under the lip of the deck and see if there is any movement. You may in some areas be able to drive wedges into the seam from inside the boat.
The deck mold will be a lot heavier than you expected. You will need block and tackle to lift it assuming you can separate it.
I admire your optimism and enthusiasm but be ready to find more issues as you dig deeper.
Is it worth it? That depends. In all likelihood you will spend a lot more than the final product is worth so if you are going this route to save a few bucks, you may be in for a nasty surprise. On the other hand, if you passion is restoring an old boat just for the love of a restoration, then go for it.
 
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Hatteras204-C

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Thank you for the feedback and tips! I have the rub rail, screws and caulking all out already. The wedges are a great idea! I will make some. After the screws and caulking came out, the bow dropped about 2 inches. So, I am optimistic that is will separate. The crane is ready and so is the block/tackle. I paid $500 for the boat, trailer and motor. The trailer is a 2009 Loadrite (in good condition) and the motor is a 2003 Evinrude and it runs. So, I figure, if I can do the restoration for 15-20% of the cost of a new Grady, I am winning. Also, I have an affinity for vintage stuff.
 

seasick

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That sounds promising. Good luck with the job; keep us posted.
 

Hatteras204-C

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Thank you! more pictures to come, as I unpack this hull! :)
 
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Hatteras204-C

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Progress!

Overall the fiberglass hull is in solid shape. No delaminating or soft spots. They stringers were nicely foamed in and resin was dumped all over the place. However, the transom needs to be replaced as well as the bulk heads that make up the gas tank compartment. The stringers are damaged and maybe repairable. But, I will likely replace them as well.

I was pleased to find that the gas tank is an RDS 7/2010 aluminum model and not the original 40 year old tank!
 

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Halfhitch

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Now that's the way to repair a boat! I like your well thought out double gantry crane to separate the liner. Well done.

I have wanted to do that on boats in the past but was afraid I would open a can of worms. My hat is off to you for having the gumption.
 
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Hatteras204-C

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Thank you! This is going to be an adventure, for sure. But, I am really enjoying it. The temps are dropping here. So, I won't get to the glass work until spring. That said, I have plenty of hull clean-up to do, before I get to the actual repairs.
 
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Deconstructing that hull, removing and replacing stringers, bulkheads, etc., while walking around in it for months, could cause some deflection that you may not see until you try to put the liner back on. I would suggest making at least 10, the more the better, sets of corresponding numbers down each side of the hull top, take carful measurements across, and write the distance beside each number for quick reference as you work.
 
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Hatteras204-C

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Deconstructing that hull, removing and replacing stringers, bulkheads, etc., while walking around in it for months, could cause some deflection that you may not see until you try to put the liner back on. I would suggest making at least 10, the more the better, sets of corresponding numbers down each side of the hull top, take carful measurements across, and write the distance beside each number for quick reference as you work.
Very good idea! Thank you!
 

Hatteras204-C

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Unfortunately, I haven't had time to really work on the boat project in November or December. But, I was able to put a few hours in last Sunday. I pulled out most of the transom and I have a nice section to use as a template. I am going to use coosa board for the rebuild. Slowly chipping away...literally.
 

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loubeer

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i really admire your efforts to restore this classic. Good luck and keep those of us, that wouldn't dare to tackle this project, informed.
 
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