265 Express Fuel line replacement

max366

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I have a 2004 265 with twin F225s and love it. It's closing in on 20 years so I'm going to replace the fuel lines from the tanks to the engine and everything in between. The lines from the selector valves are easy- it's from the tank to the valves that concern me.
If you've replaced these, please let me know if there are clamps, zip ties or other restraints that will prevent me from using the old fuel line to pull the new line into place from the tank to the valve. It's a spring project (I'm in Falmouth, MA) so I'm just getting prepared for the project.
 

Halfhitch

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Max, You didn't say whether you are the original owner or not but if your boat has had previous owners, there is no way to know what type of restraints or the positioning of the restraints on the fuel lines. Even different riggers in the same factory will put hangers, supports and ties in different locations. The best way to tell if you can use the old line to pull the new is just to remove all the restraints you can find, remove the line from its' barb and see if you can work it back and forth. An exploratory look with a flexible camera scope under the cockpit sole can tell you a lot. The cameras are cheap and plug right into your cellphone.
 

DennisG01

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It's a good idea to pull the floor hatch, anyways. Along the lines of what you're thinking about the hoses it's also a REALLY good idea to check the condition of the tank.
 

max366

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Thanks for the responses. The camera is is excellent but (if I can round up some help) I'll pull the tank hatches and check out the tanks and do the fuel lines
 

max366

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BTW I've had the boat for 11 years and I'm the 2nd owner. The 1st owner didn't do much to the boat so the fuel lines are likely as they were rigged at the factory.
 

seasick

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Pulling the floor panel off may not tell you the whole story about how the fuel line to the fuel selector valves is routed and possible secured to a bulkhead. You are going to have to disconnect the ends of the fuel line and see if it can move freely and go from there. One piece of advice is to not try to measure accurately the length of the hoses but rater estimate how much total hose length need and buy a box of bulk hose. Cut to length after pulling it through the bilge area. Buy good quality hose too.
 

SeaVee

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We did mine and it wasn’t bad, but we pulled the floor b/c we had just bought the boat. Checked the tank and replaced the senders while we were in there ( be careful with the sender nuts!).
 

max366

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SeeVee - did you find any clamps or other restraints for the fuel line under the fuel tank panel?
Seasick - I estimated 40 ft and Carolyn at Grady sent me the hose list for the boat and it shows 41 ft. I bought a 50 ft roll of Shields A1-15 hose for the project. Should do the trick.
I'm going to "scope" it on Friday.
 

SkunkBoat

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SeeVee - did you find any clamps or other restraints for the fuel line under the fuel tank panel?
Seasick - I estimated 40 ft and Carolyn at Grady sent me the hose list for the boat and it shows 41 ft. I bought a 50 ft roll of Shields A1-15 hose for the project. Should do the trick.
I'm going to "scope" it on Friday.
I would pull the deck. It will all make sense when you see it
 

eppem

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We replaced all the fuel lines on our old 265 like 8-9 years ago. Just pull the cockpit deck and its all in front of you, ezpz. Just rechalk when done.
 

drbatts

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You will need to pull the floor. Also do it on a warm day, it will make it so much easier to work with the new hoses.
 

max366

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Thanks for the replies - it's a consistent message- pull the floor! That's what I'll do in the spring.
Can anyone provide an estimate of what the floor panel weighs?
 

Sea Shift

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I hate to admit it but I just ran a metal tape from the hatch back to the rear trough and then pulled new lines with it. I didn't feel like pulling the deck. Seems fine so far. What problems did I introduce?