'99 272 Sailfish Cockpit Base Molding

Tucker

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#1
Searched and didn't get anything, which really surprises me. All the older Sailfish seem to have problems with this. Mine is pretty bad. The inside radius between the live well base and the rear seat base not attached anymore and I need to replace all the molding. Does anyone know a source besides Grady??
 

ROBERTH

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#3
A pic would help to understand and then might generate more feedback. Is this the aluminum painted trim or the stick on vinyl trim?
 

Tucker

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#4
Sorry, this is the vinyl/plastic/rubber trim that goes around the cockpit where the sides meet the deck. The inside corners are going from 90deg to 45deg pulling away, looks like the trim is shrinking with age. Looks like they are glued and screwed. All the older Grady's that I've seen have this.
 

Tucker

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#6
DennisG01 said:
http://greatgrady.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22343&p=136669&hilit=trim&sid=5055ad7626721de6838f3467f333d37c#p136669

You can also add a new piece to an area that is not as noticeable (to try and hide the seam).
Yep, that's the exact same problem I'm having. It would kill me to drill a hole in the glass and hold it with a washer and screw. Going to continue to research this. Even if I decide to replace the molding with new, it will be a huge PIA job because I'll have to remove the old adhesive which will be very time consuming and require gallons of acetone.
 

ROBERTH

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#7
Interesting conversation here. I just removed my old aluminum trim that Grady installed with rivets. The walkaround to deck mount was loose and moving around so I had to remove some coring and epoxy and remount the hardtop stantions. Also replaced the 90 degree aluminum brace to keep the walkaround to deck joint elevated as it was wearing through the deck.
In doing this work, the trim choice was the Grady vinyl trim. I had looked at a lot of newer Grady's and they all use this stuff now and it was the only thing I could find that would make the bends and look good.
So, here is a pic of the install. In the 90 degree bend, it left a gap at the top, so I filled that with 4000UV to keep dirt and excess water out. There is one screw that is a snap for the canvas and at the other end, it is overlayed with the gunnel trim which is starboard for now.

I really do like this trim, but expect it only will last a few years.

Removal is best once it is peeled off, use a rag and coat the adhesive with Mineral Spirits and let it soak a bit, then carefully use a razor blade to scrape it off and wipe clean with more mineral spirits. Then use acetone to clean the mineral spirits residue and it is ready to install more trim.

To date, there is no other alternative that I can find that will do this type of trim. I could not even find the original aluminum strips in almond unless I purchased a 250' roll.
 

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Tucker

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#8
Roberth,
Good job on that molding, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Assuming you got it from Grady, did they sell just enough to do your boat or was it a stock roll size. What is the correct nomenclature when ordering? How did you hold the inside radius in place while waiting for the adhesive to dry? Thanks!
 

Tucker

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#9
Bringing this to the top because I've put this off long enough and need to do it this year. Robert, how did you get the vinyl trim to stick to this inside corners?
 

ROBERTH

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#10
Hi Tucker, after cleaning well, the adhesive was strong enough to hold on it's own. So far, still staying connected and no issues.