Adding acr an 3rd battery bank

[southernstyle995]

I'm adding acr's and another battery bank to my 265 so I have a dedicated battery for each motor and 2 group 24's in parallel for the house. This stuff is like Chinese arithmetic to me so I had my cousin make me a schematic. Does this look rite to yall

 

[Sdfish]

You should call Blues Seas Tech support, they provide great service on these technical questions. I had some questions on my install and they were great.

 

[southernstyle995]

You should call Blues Seas Tech support, they provide great service on these technical questions. I had some questions on my install and they were great.

Okay thanks

 

[SkunkBoat]

Very similar to what I did except I used the Aux charging wires from the Yamaha instead of ACRs. You've seen my thread.

You moved the 4/0 wire that was going from the original switches "1 to 1". You have it going to the new switch...Was it long enough or are you replacing it?
My setup left the original "1 to 1" and "2 to 2" wires between the original switches in place. I used the new "House & STb Motor on/off" to switch the STB motor wire to the "feed" of the old Starboard switch.
The wire from the motor reaches the gunnel.
Your way works but I don't think the original 4 gauge "1 to1" wire will reach to the spot under the gunnel...if thats where you are going.

There are several ways that work but I found my way used the least amount of new wire.

 

[southernstyle995]

Very similar to what I did except I used the Aux charging wires from the Yamaha instead of ACRs. You've seen my thread.

You moved the 4/0 wire that was going from the original switches "1 to 1". You have it going to the new switch...Was it long enough or are you replacing it?
My setup left the original "1 to 1" and "2 to 2" wires between the original switches in place. I used the new "House & STb Motor on/off" to switch the STB motor wire to the "feed" of the old Starboard switch.
The wire from the motor reaches the gunnel.
Your way works but I don't think the original 4 gauge "1 to1" wire will reach to the spot under the gunnel...if thats where you are going.

There are several ways that work but I found my way used the least amount of new wire.

I haven't wired it up yet just getting an idea of what to do cuz I have no idea.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Your existing battery switches already have a wire from 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. Leave them there and move the Starboard motor wire from "FEED" to the new switch and run a new wire from the STB new switch to the STB "FEED"
Your old switches will remain in position 1 for the STB and position 2 for the PORT. Other positions will do various combining or switching of starting batteries but you don't need to do that.
The new switches in the gunnels will turn on/off.

 

[ocnslr]

Sorry, Skunk, but that is far too complicated. Bottom left switch not needed. Bottom right on-off switch goes in house lead to the 40a fuse.
Both top switches have an OFF position, if isolation needed.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Sorry, Skunk, but that is far too complicated. Bottom left switch not needed. Bottom right on-off switch goes in house lead to the 40a fuse.
Both top switches have an OFF position, if isolation needed.

You miss the point...bottom switches are outside, under the gunnel so you don't have to open the hatches and take the bins out to switch Motors and House on/off.
Top switches are all existing stock Grady. Just moving the on/off function outside with the new switches.

 

[southernstyle995]

You miss the point...bottom switches are outside, under the gunnel so you don't have to open the hatches and take the bins out to switch Motors and House on/off.
Top switches are all existing stock Grady. Just moving the on/off function outside with the new switches.

Got it all wired up, gota take original port batt switch off an clean. My port motor would not come on traced it down to bad connections at the original switch. Skunk did you put in any extra gauges so you could monitor the other batteries

 

[SkunkBoat]

Funny, when I did mine I broke the port switch from all the twisting and loosening and tightening and twisting. Replaced with a Marinco that has all wires attach from the FRONT!!! Genius!

Did not add volt gauges. All of your electronics will read the HOUSE and your Yamaha gauge will read the Starboard Start Battery (I have to look to see if that is switchable...hmmm)

 

[ocnslr]

You miss the point...bottom switches are outside, under the gunnel so you don't have to open the hatches and take the bins out to switch Motors and House on/off.
Top switches are all existing stock Grady. Just moving the on/off function outside with the new switches.

Ah, well on our Islander 270 all the batteries, switches, and feeder breakers (house, windlass, inverter) were easily accessed under the aft seat in the cockpit. No bins.... so no need for additional cost for additional switches, cables, etc.

 

[southernstyle995]

Funny, when I did mine I broke the port switch from all the twisting and loosening and tightening and twisting. Replaced with a Marinco that has all wires attach from the FRONT!!! Genius!

Did not add volt gauges. All of your electronics will read the HOUSE and your Yamaha gauge will read the Starboard Start Battery (I have to look to see if that is switchable...hmmm)

10-4. Just ordered one of the marinco switches

 

[southernstyle995]

So I got everything all wired up and every battery is being charged while underway but I have noticed today after I unhooked my inboard battery charger that with the old switches in positions 1 and 2 and new switches off somehow I still have power to my engines. How is this so, I took the positive leads from the acr off the house batteries an it works fine. Do I need to put another wire from the feed on original switches to new switches. I dont understand this please help

 

[SkunkBoat]

but I have noticed today after I unhooked my inboard battery charger that with the old switches in positions 1 and 2 and new switches off somehow I still have power to my engines. How is this so, I took the positive leads from the acr off the house batteries an it works fine.

Please explain further the "unhooked inboard battery charger". Are you saying that while the charger was plugged in the motors had no 12V?

I don't have ACRs. I suppose it is possible that they are sensing less voltage on the motor side than the house side and so they are closing (ie they are working in reverse).
That would mean that your ACRs are still connected to the motors(at the old switches) when your new switches are off.
You would need to have the new switches on the motor's cable before it goes to the old switch.

A diagram of it as it exists now would help.

look at my diagram. The starboard side switches the Stbd crank lead between the motor and the old switch. That is what you want.
Like you, my port side new switch switches the port crank lead after the old switch. I don't have an acr so it is not effecting me.
To fix it in my diagram, you would --
move the port crank lead from "FEED" to the new switch
move the wire from the new switch that goes to "2" to the "FEED".
add a wire from the port start battery to the "2"

basically, the new switches have to disconnect the motors from everything else.


ps...I reserve the right to revise my statements after staring at them for a while

 

[southernstyle995]

Please explain further the "unhooked inboard battery charger". Are you saying that while the charger was plugged in the motors had no 12V?

I don't have ACRs. I suppose it is possible that they are sensing less voltage on the motor side than the house side and so they are closing (ie they are working in reverse).
That would mean that your ACRs are still connected to the motors(at the old switches) when your new switches are off.
You would need to have the new switches on the motor's cable before it goes to the old switch.

A diagram of it as it exists now would help.

look at my diagram. The starboard side switches the Stbd crank lead between the motor and the old switch. That is what you want.
Like you, my port side new switch switches the port crank lead after the old switch. I don't have an acr so it is not effecting me.
To fix it in my diagram, you would --
move the port crank lead from "FEED" to the new switch
move the wire from the new switch that goes to "2" to the "FEED".
add a wire from the port start battery to the "2"

basically, the new switches have to disconnect the motors from everything else.


ps...I reserve the right to revise my statements after staring at them for a while

I plugged my battery charger in an it charged the batterys now while it was charging I did notice that the combine light was on on the acr. I unplugged battery charger an with new switches off an original switches on I had power to both motors. I attached a schematic of how it is rite now. I had it wired like you said with the starboard cranking lead going to new switch but with switch off I still had power to both engines

 

[SkunkBoat]

If the stbd motor was connected to the new switch directly and it was off, there is no way it could have power unless there was another wire on the same terminal of the new switch with power.

That is your original drawing. Let me see what I can do with that... give me some time.....
ok real quick changes

Ok so a quick explanation..
the motors are connected thru the new switches to the FEED of the old switches. When you turn off the new switches the motors are completely disconnected from the batteries and old switches.
There are jumpers between old switches 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. (This is the original configuration)
The old switches should be STBD in position 1 and Port in position 2

The ACRs connect to STBD start battery thru the "1" jumper and to the PORT starting battery thru the "2" jumper. This is ALWAYS connected regardless of any switch positions

I think your ACRs should connect to the House bank only on one terminal because they are in parallel and so you want them to be seen as one battery...I'll show that in a drawing...but I gotta run...

 

[southernstyle995]

If the stbd motor was connected to the new switch directly and it was off, there is no way it could have power unless there was another wire on the same terminal of the new switch with power.

That is your original drawing. Let me see what I can do with that... give me some time.....
ok real quick changes

Ok so a quick explanation..
the motors are connected thru the new switches to the FEED of the old switches. When you turn off the new switches the motors are completely disconnected from the batteries and old switches.
There are jumpers between old switches 1 to 1 and 2 to 2. (This is the original configuration)
The old switches should be STBD in position 1 and Port in position 2

The ACRs connect to STBD start battery thru the "1" jumper and to the PORT starting battery thru the "2" jumper. This is ALWAYS connected regardless of any switch positions

I think your ACRs should connect to the House bank only on one terminal because they are in parallel and so you want them to be seen as one battery...I'll show that in a drawing...but I gotta run...

Aight I'll give that a try sometime I'm bout to head to work. Thanks

 

[SkunkBoat]

OK I went back and re-did the diagram using your colors for Port & Stbd and ACR connections(+12V ) I used black for ground (-12V).

You can trace the blue line with your finger to understand how it goes from STBD start battery to STBD motor and the red(sort of pink) shows the Port motor.
Remember, the old STbd switch is in position 1 and old port switch is in position 2

You show a 2 Bank Charger. I would connect them to the start batteries. They will also connect to the house bank thru the connections of the old switches to the ACRs.
I did some research on ACRs used with multi-cycle/multi-bank Chargers. Here is a link to it. https://www.bluesea.com/resources/504
On that page you will find links to other pages that describe problems that "could" occur when using ACRs with shore chargers.
The short version in english is... Some chargers have multiple cycles and the voltage levels that trigger those cycles may or may not trigger the ACRs to open or close at the appropriate time.

If you have problems caused by cycling, you may have to disable the ACRs when you are on shore charge. The website shows adding a relay powered by the AC power....but you could just put a simple on/off switch on the ACR ground wires.
When the ACR has no ground it stays open. Unfortunately, this would then make the connections that I show to the charger not charge the House bank(since it went thru the ACRs).
With your 2 bank charger you would have to use one for the House bank and one for one start battery and the other start battery would not charge when on the shore charger.

I would have gone with a 3 bank charger since you have 3 banks.

 

[southernstyle995]

thanks skunk I really appreciate this. I do have a 3 bank battery charger its the same one you have. I didn't do the schematic my cousin did, he didn't know I had a 3 bank charger

 

[SkunkBoat]

thanks skunk I really appreciate this. I do have a 3 bank battery charger its the same one you have. I didn't do the schematic my cousin did, he didn't know I had a 3 bank charger

In that case, the 3rd +charge wire goes to the same terminal as the ACR yellow wires. The -charge wire goes where the ACR black wires go.
I know it seems like splitting hairs but for the charger to properly charge the house bank as one battery it should be connected that way.

oh, the diagram does not show the motor grounds(-12V). Ideally, they connect to the neg terminals of their respective start battery.
I did not do that with the stbd neg in this case because it would have to cross over to the port side.
I connected it to the House neg terminal which is already connected to the stbd battery by the pre-existing neg wire that crosses from stbd to port.

I'm interested to see how the ACRs work out with the charger. The problem is if the charger is cycling different batteries at different times the ACRs will feel that charge and possibly connect the charge to the House even though the charge is not trying to charge the House on its charge wire. This is not unique to your new configuration. Anybody with multiple Banks and ACRs and a multi-bank/multi-cycle charger will have this dilemma.