My ap11 ia playing up again. After getting the pump rebuilt the ap worked for a couple of oputings and now has starting veering to the right after turning on. There are no alarms or error codes just doesn't do what it shouls. Capt Bill I believe you had some issues with an ap11 some time ago. Or anyone else with advice. From what i've read they have some issues. thanks.
ap11 woes
- Thread starter jekyl
- Start date
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
Do you have virtual feedback or a feedback device mounted on ur outboard?
- If virtual make sure its set up proper
- If you have the device(They tend to go bad after a few years) confirm that its working proper. If you turn the wheel there should be a bar that fills up on the screen according to the way the engines are facing. ITS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THIS WORKS.
If you confirm the above is working the next thing I would check is where the compass is mounted.
- make sure there is no metal in its immediate area. Including metal frame nets, metal cages, life rafts, tool boxes..etc.
- If you know how, recalibrate the compass.=> you must go into setup menu (dockside)to do this.After you get the "confirmed" message there is a way to offset the heading. On a VERY calm day steer the boat straight for a few minutes and get a heading from ur GPS and compare it to the heading from the AP. While still in setup you can tweek the AP heading so they are the exact same.
As long as everything else is working, the compass setup and the feedback are in my opinion the most important when it comes to keeping on an accurate heading.
Good Luck.
2005 300 Marlin w/F250's
- If virtual make sure its set up proper
- If you have the device(They tend to go bad after a few years) confirm that its working proper. If you turn the wheel there should be a bar that fills up on the screen according to the way the engines are facing. ITS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THIS WORKS.
If you confirm the above is working the next thing I would check is where the compass is mounted.
- make sure there is no metal in its immediate area. Including metal frame nets, metal cages, life rafts, tool boxes..etc.
- If you know how, recalibrate the compass.=> you must go into setup menu (dockside)to do this.After you get the "confirmed" message there is a way to offset the heading. On a VERY calm day steer the boat straight for a few minutes and get a heading from ur GPS and compare it to the heading from the AP. While still in setup you can tweek the AP heading so they are the exact same.
As long as everything else is working, the compass setup and the feedback are in my opinion the most important when it comes to keeping on an accurate heading.
Good Luck.
2005 300 Marlin w/F250's
I have the device on the outboards. how does the virtual one work? off the GPS?
I have read about trouble with the outboard mounted device due to it's location.
I will try setup procedure again and see if that helps.
I have read about trouble with the outboard mounted device due to it's location.
I will try setup procedure again and see if that helps.
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
Yes, you are right; my AP11 didn't work when I bought the boat. I traced the problem to the RFU, and Teleflex was just coming out with a newly-designed unit called the SmartStick. I installed it, and haven't had any further problems with the AP since then.
Gmans info is good; check the rudder position indicator on the display, and see if it is following the position of the engines. There is also a loop test that you can do at the J3000 junction box, to be sure the there are no problems with that. (The J3000 has built-in test led's for the loopback test).
If you have the old style (mechanical) RFU, I would definitely replace it with the new magnetic SmartStick. No internal moving parts; so it is reliable.
Gmans info is good; check the rudder position indicator on the display, and see if it is following the position of the engines. There is also a loop test that you can do at the J3000 junction box, to be sure the there are no problems with that. (The J3000 has built-in test led's for the loopback test).
If you have the old style (mechanical) RFU, I would definitely replace it with the new magnetic SmartStick. No internal moving parts; so it is reliable.
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
jekyl said:
Virtual is avail on the AC 10 and 20 that has an algarithem built in to the computer that eliminates the need for the device on the outboards.You would have to buy a new computer(about $900)to get the virtual.
Just keep in mind if the AP is not tracking like it should, it could be as simple as an inaccurate compass caused by the things I mentioned.
2005 300 Marlin w/F250's
Gman25, seems like you know Simrad upside down. I will send you a PM. I installed my AP28 and i can not get it to track staight and the set up menu still up when i power on. Need help. I have the virtual rudder and i did set it up for virtual.
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
Thanks for suggestions guys. Bill the smart stick is made by whom and roughly how much? Is it easily fitted ? sounds too good....
Gman the ap compass is in it's position under the helm deck and has not had any nearby changes, I think this ap is 10 years old so I 'm expecting probs with some parts.
Gman the ap compass is in it's position under the helm deck and has not had any nearby changes, I think this ap is 10 years old so I 'm expecting probs with some parts.
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
SmartStick is made by Teleflex, and sells for about $250. Here a link to just one of many vendors that come up when I googled it: http://www.hodgesmarine.com/ProductDeta ... I&click=19
It's pretty easy to install, if you are reasonably handy, although I had to fuss with the brackets to get the positioning correct. It comes with a strong magnet and a clamp,to mount it to the hydraulic cyclinder. When the engines turn, the magnets position changes with regard to the position sensor (a long, slender, sealed coil), and sends a signal to the J-box. That fixed my A/P, and it works like a charm, and should prove to be reliable.
It's pretty easy to install, if you are reasonably handy, although I had to fuss with the brackets to get the positioning correct. It comes with a strong magnet and a clamp,to mount it to the hydraulic cyclinder. When the engines turn, the magnets position changes with regard to the position sensor (a long, slender, sealed coil), and sends a signal to the J-box. That fixed my A/P, and it works like a charm, and should prove to be reliable.
Bill there seems to be some variations of the Smartstick. Do you have the exact model number. And is there any other brackets i will need?
thanks haydn
thanks haydn
I fitted the smartstick and after going thru the dock set and the rudder test procedure it appeared to work ok at home however on the water nothing seems to happen .
Powers up , press auto and the boat drifts off course as tho' the a/p isn't on?
I have not done a sea set proceduree as yet, could this be it?
Powers up , press auto and the boat drifts off course as tho' the a/p isn't on?
I have not done a sea set proceduree as yet, could this be it?
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
Sorry I didn't get back to you with model numbers, but I only knew of the model that was sent to me, and it worked out ok wheile installing it.
If you have done the dockside test and setup procedures (and they went as expected), and if you do not see "No Data" on the display screen, indicating a problem with the NMEA 0183, then I would try to complete the rest of the calibrations.
Is rudder position indicator working, and showing correct rudder ()engine) position? Do you see any info displayed when you engage the AP? Is the pump hooked up and working? e.g. can you turn the engines with the < > buttons?
If you have done the dockside test and setup procedures (and they went as expected), and if you do not see "No Data" on the display screen, indicating a problem with the NMEA 0183, then I would try to complete the rest of the calibrations.
Is rudder position indicator working, and showing correct rudder ()engine) position? Do you see any info displayed when you engage the AP? Is the pump hooked up and working? e.g. can you turn the engines with the < > buttons?
Thanks Bill , I got it all on reasonably easily and yes the pump is working I went thru the dockside and rudder test and that all worked. I haven't done the sea set test yet and I believe there are other checks / tests that can be done at the control board? G man had some other ideas last time.
But it acts as tho' nothing is controlling it. Lights up but no-ones home?
But it acts as tho' nothing is controlling it. Lights up but no-ones home?
I have the same problem with mine, i did the rudder thingie and when is suppose to center the engines, it doesn't. The engines stop in an angle(towards port). When i engage the AP at sea, the boat turns to port ??????????
N.E.Matters ......did you replace your rudder feedback with the solid state unit as well?
I have just spent the afternoon with a friend who is more of a technician and can't get it to go thru the full rudder test without it going to far one way and then stopping. Just not sure which bit of gear is causing the problem? the code says "rudder test fail"
When moving the unit manually it will go one way easily but not all the other direction?????
Really confused but i don't know of a tech who will work with it without saying you need a whole new unit.
I have just spent the afternoon with a friend who is more of a technician and can't get it to go thru the full rudder test without it going to far one way and then stopping. Just not sure which bit of gear is causing the problem? the code says "rudder test fail"
When moving the unit manually it will go one way easily but not all the other direction?????
Really confused but i don't know of a tech who will work with it without saying you need a whole new unit.
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
jekyl and N.E.M.: when you turn on the A/P power, and look at the AP display, does the rudder position indicator work correctly, as you manually turn the wheel from lock to lock?
If that is working reliably, then it would seem the problem is with a NMEA data loss. If the display is not following actual rudder position, then the problem could be the magnet placement, the wiring to the J3000, or something not complete in dockside calibration.
If that is working reliably, then it would seem the problem is with a NMEA data loss. If the display is not following actual rudder position, then the problem could be the magnet placement, the wiring to the J3000, or something not complete in dockside calibration.
Ok I was uncertain as to the info coming from the smartstick as the head unit showed only bars going to starboard even as I turned the helm to port.
I have got a tech to ascertain that the smartstick is working properly so i think the problem is probably in the control box ,or headunit or connections .
Pump is working fine.
Where would you guys look next and what are my options re replacing units? As the whole thing is 10 years old i probably should start to consider replacement. Anybody with ideas? I'm not looking for anything fancy just something that will hold a course at cruise and trolling speeds would make me very happy.
I have got a tech to ascertain that the smartstick is working properly so i think the problem is probably in the control box ,or headunit or connections .
Pump is working fine.
Where would you guys look next and what are my options re replacing units? As the whole thing is 10 years old i probably should start to consider replacement. Anybody with ideas? I'm not looking for anything fancy just something that will hold a course at cruise and trolling speeds would make me very happy.
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
I don't know if this will be helpful, but just to be sure, I'll ask anyways.
You DID discard the original rudder ref interface box, and connect the new smart stik directly to your J3000? Those connections are Smart Stik RED to J3000 Black; Smart Stik White to J3000 White; shield to J3000 ground? Nothing else connected to the J3000 RRU terminals.
You DID discard the original rudder ref interface box, and connect the new smart stik directly to your J3000? Those connections are Smart Stik RED to J3000 Black; Smart Stik White to J3000 White; shield to J3000 ground? Nothing else connected to the J3000 RRU terminals.