Drain fuel two tank gulfstream

pessacake

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Hello everyone,

Lot of unexpected life this summer. I still have fuel in my boat from last october and want to drain it all out before I wrap her for the winter. Anybody have recommendations for easiest way to do this? I have a gulfsteam with 2 tanks.

Thanks,
Greg
 

seasick

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Easiest?
If you need or want to get all the gas out, you need to remove the sender flange and sender and pump out the tank. You also need to have the hull slightly angled towards the rear of the tank. Since the pickup tube sits a 1/2 inch to an inch above the tank bottom, just using the fuel pickup line will leave gas in the tank.
Using a hand held mechanical pump will work but it is a slow and tedious operation. If you are going to try an electric pump you must make sure it is rated for gasoline. Most of the less expensive ones aren't. You need a fuel transfer pump.
You need somewhere to dispose of the old fuel also; legally that is.
Trying to siphon the gas using the fill hose may not work. It can be impossible to get a siphon hose into the tank.
There are risks to pumping the gas; You may create leaks in the sender fittings especially if the screws are corroded or the flange id corroded.
Using an electric pump is dangerous if gas leaks or spills. Vapors in the tank are highly explosive
So my advice if you insist on draining the tank is to have a proper company do the job ( can be pretty expensive) or...
Treat you current tanks with the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer, preferable before the last trip to help mix the additive and treat the engine parts, Then add fresh gas in the spring.
I have done this on my boats for many years without issues in the spring ( boats are in NE area) .
 

Hookup1

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Not clear why you think it's a good idea to drain the tanks.

I have a fuel transfer setup made from a automotive fuel pump. Hoses and a long wire wired to a lighter plug. I disconnect the primer bulb and hook up there.

This setup will get you most of the way there. As SEASICK said it's getting the last bit out that is difficult.

Be careful using the fuel in your car or truck. They have small fuel filters and may even be in your tank. If you crap one of those up or an injector it will be a expensive way to get rid of the fuel.

My advice would be to get as much out as you can with a pump. Treat the balance. In the spring fill tanks up and keep a close eye on the primary and secondary filters. Keep draining them until the fuel cleans up. You have to take the boat out and run it to get the water stirred up and have the filter pick it up. My boat sits all summer in NJ. When I take it to FL in the winter this is what I do.

I have had water in fuel problems is the past. Phase separation, water in fuel from fill o-rings. As much as I wanted to start fresh nobody want's the fuel. I haven't found anyone at any price. Best advise is to dilute with new fuel and burn it! Monitor your filters carefully. It's possible you could flame out both engines so bring everything you need to drop filter cans and re-fill with clean fuel.

This is what came out first trip. Afterwards everything was fine.

Water fuel 2.jpg
 
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seasick

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Not clear why you think it's a good idea to drain the tanks.

I have a fuel transfer setup made from a automotive fuel pump. Hoses and a long wire wired to a lighter plug. I disconnect the primer bulb and hook up there.

This setup will get you most of the way there. As SEASICK said it's getting the last bit out that is difficult.

Be careful using the fuel in your car or truck. They have small fuel filters and may even be in your tank. If you crap one of those up or an injector it will be a expensive way to get rid of the fuel.

My advice would be to get as much out as you can with a pump. Treat the balance. In the spring fill tanks up and keep a close eye on the primary and secondary filters. Keep draining them until the fuel cleans up. You have to take the boat out and run it to get the water stirred up and have the filter pick it up. My boat sits all summer in NJ. When I take it to FL in the winter this is what I do.

I have had water in fuel problems is the past. Phase separation, water in fuel from fill o-rings. As much as I wanted to start fresh nobody want's the fuel. I haven't found anyone at any price. Best advise is to dilute with new fuel and burn it! Monitor your filters carefully. It's possible you could flame out both engines so bring everything you need to drop filter cans and re-fill with clean fuel.

This is what came out first trip. Afterwards everything was fine.

View attachment 27601
Just want to point out that if you have actual phase separation, there is no way to get the alcohol to remix with the gasoline to make ethanol. At some point you could be burning pure alcohol and that can be disasterous.

Another point is that bad orings on the fill caps in my opinion is a much more common cause of water in the tanks at least in my neck of the woods. There part of winterizing should include inspection and/or routine replacement of the o-rings.
 

Hookup1

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A gallon of E10 suspends FOUR (4) TEASPOONS of water per gallon of fuel before phase separation. That's 0.41%. About 1/2 gallon water for 100 gallons of E10. That is not much.

The alcohol/water will drop out and go to the bottom of the tank. Not sure if this mix will even burn let alone run a motor. The fuel floating on top in the tank will now have a lower octane. There is no way to put it back together.

Water separating fuel filter do a good job separating the fuel out but you can't let the filter fill all the way with water and spill over into the engine filter. I use a Sierra filter with a clear bowl so I can see what is going on.

 

SeaVee

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You could polish the fuel before next season and then fill them up with fresh new fuel for next season.
 

seasick

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You could polish the fuel before next season and then fill them up with fresh new fuel for next season.
If it phase separated it is shot. Polishing won't help.
Also, I am no expert on polishing but I see its value for diesel fuel but not so much for gasoline.