Electric Reel Outlets 305 Express

Doberman

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In process of adding 4 12v outlets (2port, 2 stbd) in cockpit of 305 Express. Interested in approaches, planning on putting in 4 - 30 amp breakers, one per drop on 10gauge wiring. Any thoughts welcome if you done this.
 

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Don't know what brand you are using, but maybe some wiring info here.


If not, you can call, and probably have the owner answer the phone. Very friendly and helpful. Carl, IIRC
 

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There are a few options. Depends on the amount you want to spend and how "professional" you want it to look.
A professional install would use "marine" Hubbel 30A plug/socket in a weather-proof "marine" box mounted under the gunnel.
I've seen kits for $350 like this. There are Stainless Steel versions that are pretty.
1641515814164.png

If you have multiple $5k LP1200 reels thats the way to go

I have one $2k outfit (Banax Twin 1500) and limited oppurtunity to deepdrop for swords. It doubles as a tilefish rod.
I'm in NJ so its 90 miles to the edge.

I have the parts for this winter project.
My plan is to get rid of the gator clips which were really BAD.

I'm going to use these Marinco 2 pin 12V plug/socket-Amazon, one under each gunnel
Yes its cheap but...its also cheap... ;)
I will mount in a standard 4" square grey electric box from Home depot.
I will use a Bussman breaker-switch so I can leave them un-powered most of the time.
This will also serve as a plug for my "hang over the side" LED UW light stick
 

Doberman

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Appreciate the input, my gear will be mixture of Tanacom 1000 and assorted Electramates, more medium/heavy targeting tile grouper trigger etc. Agree on eliminating gator clips and go the route of locking plug under side gunnels, still debating where to hide breakers. To minimize salt spray, yet still get to without lifting panels. Also my winter project. Will also use of rear corner to manage dredge/ teasers etc
 

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Depends on what you want kind of fishing you want to do.

I use the Marino 12/24 volt plugs/sockets. They are smaller than the Hubble's which are probably overkill. For the Tanacom 750 or 1000's they are more than adequate. I use them mostly for kite fishing and occasional deep dropping.

If you want to fish LP's the Hubble's's are better. Dredge work and sword fishing. Also use Diawa MP3000's on tournament boat for dredge work on another boat.

I know nothing about Electromates.
 
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Mustang65fbk

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Not exactly an apples to apples comparison as I have a different model of boat and a different fishing application but this is where I drilled the holes for my Scotty downrigger outlets. I like that they’re out of the way, somewhat hidden and are in a spot where you can hopefully avoid getting a lot of water into them being underneath the gunwale. Not sure how a 305 Express is set up comparatively but it might help give you an idea or two.

C24275AF-24B7-4D8F-A759-84CB99A3C4C1.jpeg04452D54-5F86-44DE-BB24-CE71BA0A2425.jpeg
 

Hookup1

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My two Marino's connectors are mounted under the gunnels aft. Drilled thru, tightened from the back and anti-rotate cover plate installed. The cords on my Diawa TB1000's and TB750's are long enough that they can be in any rod holder.

They are wired to a fuse block that I installed for misc electrical like bait tank pumps and electric reels. You don't really need to go too heavy on the wire. Just go up one size based on the reel power cords. 10 AWG should fit the Marino's. You can also use inline blade fuses in a waterproof housing if you don't want a fuse block. You shouldn't be blowing fuses!

Reel 1.jpeg Reel 3.jpeg Reel 2.jpeg
 

Doberman

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Not exactly an apples to apples comparison as I have a different model of boat and a different fishing application but this is where I drilled the holes for my Scotty downrigger outlets. I like that they’re out of the way, somewhat hidden and are in a spot where you can hopefully avoid getting a lot of water into them being underneath the gunwale. Not sure how a 305 Express is set up comparatively but it might help give you an idea or two.

View attachment 24219View attachment 24220
Hadn’t thought of using the plate which houses the gaff, boat hook etc, but I like that approach and the 305 has very similar aft and mid cockpit. I was looking at using the locking Scotty downrigger plugs for the electric reels, size was good, they looked beefy, only question could not see any amp rating for them in writing, assume they could handle 30 amps. What gauge wire are you running to them. Thnx
 
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Doberman

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My two Marino's connectors are mounted under the gunnels aft. Drilled thru, tightened from the back and anti-rotate cover plate installed. The cords on my Diawa TB1000's and TB750's are long enough that they can be in any rod holder.

They are wired to a fuse block that I installed for misc electrical like bait tank pumps and electric reels. You don't really need to go too heavy on the wire. Just go up one size based on the reel power cords. 10 AWG should fit the Marino's. You can also use inline blade fuses in a waterproof housing if you don't want a fuse block. You shouldn't be blowing fuses!

View attachment 24227 View attachment 24228 View attachment 24229
So have that similar space
My two Marino's connectors are mounted under the gunnels aft. Drilled thru, tightened from the back and anti-rotate cover plate installed. The cords on my Diawa TB1000's and TB750's are long enough that they can be in any rod holder.

They are wired to a fuse block that I installed for misc electrical like bait tank pumps and electric reels. You don't really need to go too heavy on the wire. Just go up one size based on the reel power cords. 10 AWG should fit the Marino's. You can also use inline blade fuses in a waterproof housing if you don't want a fuse block. You shouldn't be blowing fuses!

View attachment 24227 View attachment 24228 View attachment 24229
My two Marino's connectors are mounted under the gunnels aft. Drilled thru, tightened from the back and anti-rotate cover plate installed. The cords on my Diawa TB1000's and TB750's are long enough that they can be in any rod holder.

They are wired to a fuse block that I installed for misc electrical like bait tank pumps and electric reels. You don't really need to go too heavy on the wire. Just go up one size based on the reel power cords. 10 AWG should fit the Marino's. You can also use inline blade fuses in a waterproof housing if you don't want a fuse block. You shouldn't be blowing fuses!

View attachment 24227 View attachment 24228 View attachment 24229
Agree with just using inline spade fuse in water tight connectors, in looking are your fuse black those red wires are running one separate one to each 12v outlet. Did you split these loads across different batteries ie 2 distinct house batteries, or was that not an issue. Thanks for pics, yes have a similar plate by shore power and gaff hole, that’s where I’ll drill out.
 

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Hadn’t thought of using the plate which houses the gaff, boat hook etc, but I like that approach and the 305 has very similar aft and mid cockpit. I was looking at using the locking Scotty downrigger plugs for the electric reels, size was good, they looked beefy, only question could not see any amp rating for them in writing, assume they could handle 30 amps. What gauge wire are you running to them. Thnx
Scotty recommends using a 30 amp inline fuse holder for their downriggers in case of snagging something or snapping off a downrigger ball. I believe you put it within 7" or so of your batteries so you don't short out anything else and it's much easier replacing a fuse as opposed to other electrical items. I used their own brand for the inline fuse holder, which is I'm sure just another brand that they labeled as their own. Same with the wiring, I also bought their brand of 12 gauge wire for connecting my downriggers to the batteries, which is nice because it's coated and helps to prevent water or moisture from getting inside the wiring. I've used my downriggers a couple of times so far and they work great and I like that Scotty has their own brand of accessories to use and are readily available for installation with their products. Neither the fuse holder nor the wiring were very expensive but it's also nice knowing that it'll work since it's their own brand.


 
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SkunkBoat

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regarding fuse or breaker switch.
In my experience, in a salt environment, when you leave power applied to unused jacks they tend to turn green on the positive connector.
This happened to several electronics power plugs on a boat that did not have a House switch. Especially on plugs to equipment that I removed each time I left the boat. The + pin corroded badly. That taught me to put a dash switch on those pieces of equipment.

If you go with a fuse then at least connect it to the switched side of your house and not direct to battery. That way it will be only be powered when you are on the boat. If you are using the plug on most trips due to your type of fishing then it makes sense.

I will rarely use them because I have to go 90 miles east for deepdropping. This boat has a House switch but I plan to use a switchable breaker and leave it off unless I am using the electric reel or UW light.


Oh... Scotty has the same design plug/sockets as the Marinco 2-pin
 

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Marinco's have a cover to keep water out. Connectors are always powered. 12 AWG wire is good for 20 amps which is good enough for me. Because the connectors are on opposite sides they have wires that run direct to fuse block. Too much work for me to run them to helm switch so they go direct to fuse block. Fuse block wired to battery 4 (bow thruster, windlass, stereo amp, large bait well and electric reels). Charged from engine 2 (house charged charged by engine 1). Unlikely you will run both reels at the same time but mine don't draw that much anyway. Engines are never turned off. Small AGM 31M battery (high CCA lower capacity). Never had a low voltage problem. Granted I'm not hammering the battery with constant draw. This fuse block can be switched to the house battery but bow thruster, windlass and amp stay on battery 4.
 
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drbatts

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Should be enough room under the gunnels to mount a box and receptacle. Probably the best place as it is hidden and protected from water. I don't now about you boat but on mine I have a cable tv input next to my shore power input. Which if not used could probably easily be turned into a 12v power outlet. There is also a lot of dead space underneath the steps on either side.
 

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I did the easy install. Used Marinco 2 prong fixtures, drilled a hole in the plastic supports that hold the side rod holders. I used 4 30W circuit breakers near my batteries so I can turn off power. The breakers are mounted on epoxy sealed marine plywood affixed to the side.

I find it a pain to plug in my reels, always have to get on one knee to reach up and plug them in. Be sure to orient them in the same manner, that way you avoid having to turn the plug 180° when you plug in. My plugs are mounted high, up under the gunnel so I can't see them. I still get some corrosion. I see I need to cleanup some connections. The flaps on the outlet don't have a positive closure. I get spray from the washdown up on the outlets.

In retrospect I would go with waterproof boxes and a better lid. My downriggers and crab davit use the same outlets. Many use the 2 prong fixtures so it is nice if I go on another's boat.
 

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wow, I did not even think of mounting them on the Starboard gaff holder. That would be quick & easy. Depends on how "last minute project" this becomes in the spring.;)
I was thinking higher up under the gunnel in a box so they don't get salt washdown

I can't put them on the bulkhead under the gunnel because I moved the battery switches there so i don't have to pull tubs every time
KlacVnlm.jpg
 
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