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- Jan 31, 2005
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Hi,
Finally got up the nads to install these. Need to drill a 3" hole in the hardtop and (4) 9/16" mounting holes. Had to measure 5X and drill once. I put in the Taco GS270s with 15' telescope poles and used the Taco premium rigging kit along with the line caddys. Bought everything on ebay for less than $1K all-in.
The line caddys allow you to neatly store the rigging on the outrigger pole near the base without the rigging being attached to the gunnel when the riggers are not in use. A nice feature with the WA models to keep clean access to the bow.
I used the 7.5 degree wedge plates to compensate for the hardtop roll off on the top side and the backing plates on the bottom. I'd recommend using the plastic tube spacers as well (this is why you need a 9/16" mount hole versus a 7/16". The hard plastic tube spacers are cut to the same height of the hardtop and are installed inside the mounting holes as a sleeve which the 7/16" mounting bolt slides in to ensure the hardtop does not collapse when the bolts are tightened. Also be sure to use plastic washers between the aluminum and the stainless washers if ss hardware is used. I sealed all exposed coring with 4200 and bedded the spacer tubes and riggers as well.
Everything went fine... Sent in a few pics to the moderator. Maybe he will post. This is an easy job for one person once you get the nerve. You can save ~$3K in the process too.
Finally got up the nads to install these. Need to drill a 3" hole in the hardtop and (4) 9/16" mounting holes. Had to measure 5X and drill once. I put in the Taco GS270s with 15' telescope poles and used the Taco premium rigging kit along with the line caddys. Bought everything on ebay for less than $1K all-in.
The line caddys allow you to neatly store the rigging on the outrigger pole near the base without the rigging being attached to the gunnel when the riggers are not in use. A nice feature with the WA models to keep clean access to the bow.
I used the 7.5 degree wedge plates to compensate for the hardtop roll off on the top side and the backing plates on the bottom. I'd recommend using the plastic tube spacers as well (this is why you need a 9/16" mount hole versus a 7/16". The hard plastic tube spacers are cut to the same height of the hardtop and are installed inside the mounting holes as a sleeve which the 7/16" mounting bolt slides in to ensure the hardtop does not collapse when the bolts are tightened. Also be sure to use plastic washers between the aluminum and the stainless washers if ss hardware is used. I sealed all exposed coring with 4200 and bedded the spacer tubes and riggers as well.
Everything went fine... Sent in a few pics to the moderator. Maybe he will post. This is an easy job for one person once you get the nerve. You can save ~$3K in the process too.