Is Grady Construction worse than they tell us?

gregsnow

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Restore my faith fellas.. Why have I seen multiple reports like this in the past couple years? Will my new GW be rotting out soon. What logical reason can be given to explain rotting GW boats that are less than 10 years of age? :?

For the record my boat was sold to me with the explanation of a no-rot system..
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=195468&posts=6
 

Grog

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Many problems come from the owners not sealing holes they made or not up-keeping the boat.

In general they seem to be decently made boats. Older transomes can be problems but if they've been fixed or modified will be better than most. One weak spot is the coring on the hatches, but it's not a hard fix. What boat doesn't have "issues"?
 

gregsnow

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Grog said:
Many problems come from the owners not sealing holes they made or not up-keeping the boat.

In general they seem to be decently made boats. Older transomes can be problems but if they've been fixed or modified will be better than most. One weak spot is the coring on the hatches, but it's not a hard fix. What boat doesn't have "issues"?

Will you explain what you mean with coring on the hatches. Strength issue?

Thanks
GS
 

JUST-IN-TIME

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gregsnow said:
Restore my faith fellas.. Why have I seen multiple reports like this in the past couple years? Will my new GW be rotting out soon. What logical reason can be given to explain rotting GW boats that are less than 10 years of age? :?

For the record my boat was sold to me with the explanation of a no-rot system..
http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=195468&posts=6


lets wait and c what model
 

gradyfish22

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If proper maintenance is taken, it should not rot, but they do from time to time. Grog is correct, most problems occur from not sealing holes correctly or not tightening fasteners after years of use. Many boaters do not think to do this work and encounter problems. Not all problems can be avoided, but many can. Transoms and stringers are known to rot, but often it is because owner's did not know how to prevent issues, that isn't to say there are some who did preventivie maintenance and had issues. Grady's are not alone, there are many builders with issues, and it is not only wood. Foam core can disintegrate over time from vibrations or pounding, they can absorb water and become mush quicker then wood if holes are not sealed correctly and fiberglass layup is not done properly. To prevent any issues, check all your thru0hulls first, if any are corroding or cracked, replace them immediately. Usually the bronze pipe that goes from the motor well to the scuppers goes first, if you see the lip falling apart or a crack, seal it with 4200 right away and get them fixed, the 4200 is only a temp fix. Make sure when you drill holes for transducers of anything else in the hull that you seal the holes with 4200. Make sure all your deck screws are tight, if any seem loose, you really need to remove the screw and fill the hole with 4200 and put it back to be safe. Every other year at a min you should replace the seals on your inspection hatches, every year ideally, the gasket is not expensive, and this will prevent water from getting into the bilge. Check hoses to avoid leaks, this will also keep your bilge dry. Most Grady's, especially new one's do not drain anything to the bilge, if you have a bit of water in there, chances are it is getting in through the deck or a leaky hose or fitting. Water in the bilge can saturate the hull, and for some reason Grady does not always seal screw holes correctly inside the hull. Also, check your caulk in the deck's, if it looks bad, chances are it is and should be replaced, if water leaks through there it will rot the deck core and its supports. Watch the metal trim along the transom, this needs to be sealed along its edges and if it pits badly, replace it. Many think just because it is there it keeps water out, water can get behind and under it if it is not sealed with a good marine caulk. Grady's are not the only boats with these issues or only brand that uses wood. Many brands have issues, but guys blow the issues with Grady's out of proportion because they think they should be 100% problem free for ever. I think Grady builds one hell of a boat and uses great materials, sometimes I think there are steps they miss or do not attend to 100% perfectly, but they are far beyond many comparable builders out there.
 

Grog

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gregsnow said:
Grog said:
Many problems come from the owners not sealing holes they made or not up-keeping the boat.

In general they seem to be decently made boats. Older transomes can be problems but if they've been fixed or modified will be better than most. One weak spot is the coring on the hatches, but it's not a hard fix. What boat doesn't have "issues"?

Will you explain what you mean with coring on the hatches. Strength issue?

Thanks
GS

The coring is made of 6" squares, not the best way to do it. The good part is when it goes bad it's easy to remove and do it right. If your decks are hard, keep the screws and gaps sealed and don't worry.
 

gearadrift

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I agree with Grog. There is a lot of upkeep that goes along with owning any boat whether you perform the upkeep yourself or you have someone else do it, it needs to get done, and done right. All boats have potential for problems, a lot of boats have common problem areas. Grady White boats are not the only boats with wood, not the only boats with thru hull fittings, not the only boats with fuel tanks.
Understanding your particular boat and becoming familiar with every corner of the bilge and every system on your boat is essential to sucessfully owning and enjoying your boat. Bottom line is knowing your boat stem to stern will build your confidence, provide peace of mind, and help you stay safe on the water. There's no such thing as a trouble free boat!!!
Pat
 

gregsnow

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Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS
 

jbukie

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What is the best way to seal the metal trim along the top of the transom?
Can it be done without removing the engine?

Where can i get the gaskets to replace on the deck hatches? Do i need to order from grady or can i get at a marine supply store?

Why 4200 and not 5200?
 

Brad1

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I believe the boat in question has the lifetime guarantee wood, so rot should not be an issue. Note I say "should not". However, I would think it could still delaminate.

Before I bought my Grady White, I had purchased a brand new boat that was found to have water in the transom. Scupper wasn't sealed and the transom had a void between the coring material (not wood) and outer layer of glass. My Brother's "wood free" Scout has a serious problem with water in the transom. Now neither of those boat's transoms would rot, but delamination could occur.

Aside from taking every precaution to avoid water intrusion that a boat owner can take, what can you do?
 

gw204

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jbukie said:
What is the best way to seal the metal trim along the top of the transom?

Remove the engine(s), then remove the trim and throw it in the trash. Glass, fair and gelcoat the joint.
 

gradyfish22

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jbukie,
4200 will seal it well enough, 5200 is more permanent and harder to get off if you do need to replace the metal trim on the transom or the thru hulls down the road. You can get 5200 off but it is not nearly as easy. I agree with gw204, glassing the top of the transom is the best idea, but is also labor intensive compared to resealing the area. A local marine parts store should be able to carry the gaskets you need if you bring and show them the lid and gasket. You can seal the area with 4200 by inserting it between the trim and hull, but it is a small area to work, ideally removing it works better but cannot be done in many cases. Try and fill the area between the rounded edge of the trim and the hull itself and every year check the area and touch up if it seems to crack or space is apparent.
 

jaydub

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gregsnow said:
Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS
Gregsnow, I have a 222 also and noticed the rear deck access panel on my boat was not caulked either. I noticed I was getting water in the bilge when it rained or when I washed it down, so I caulked mine with GE almond bath caulk. That solved the water problem and if I need to remove the panel, I just cut through the silicone with a razor and it lifts right out.

I was wondering why Grady didn't caulk this panel either. Maybe because that is the access panel to get to the livewell pump and washdown pump, but there is still a port to access the valve handles. I replaced my livewell pump and it was easy to cut the silicone, remove the panel then reapply the silicone after. My bilge hasn't had the water accumulation since.
 

CJBROWN

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Having been around boats all of my life, and I've built a few and restored a few, Grady's are better built than most any other brand.

Examples of quality construction compared to other brands:
woven roving in the hull layup vs. mat and chopper gun
gel coat that is thicker than most any other
design development and improvement over may years, much like a BMW 3-series
sufficient glass thickness so that surfaces don't flex (for the most part)
good access to bilge areas
flotation
good utilization of space and design features, like storage, cup holders, compartments, etc. and occupant comforts for sitting, operating, etc.
seaworthy hull design
premium hardware

These are just off the top of my head, but I'm sure there are many others.
It is a shame that some owners are having issues with water intrusion in cores and internal wood components. That should not happen, but as mentioned, if proper maintenance isn't carried out these can be issues.

Would the elimination of wood in these boats make them inherintly better? I don't think so, but some others may.

Hope this helps.
 

GulfGrady

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jaydub said:
gregsnow said:
Guys, come to think of it (not currently with my boat) , there is an area on my deck over the bilge, in front of the motor that is sectioned off without any caulking. The rest of the seams on the deck are full. Does this area of a Fish. 222 not ever need the caulk. I would imagine if it did, the manu. or dealer would of caulked it. And thanks for all the insight.

GS
Gregsnow, I have a 222 also and noticed the rear deck access panel on my boat was not caulked either. I noticed I was getting water in the bilge when it rained or when I washed it down, so I caulked mine with GE almond bath caulk. That solved the water problem and if I need to remove the panel, I just cut through the silicone with a razor and it lifts right out.

I was wondering why Grady didn't caulk this panel either. Maybe because that is the access panel to get to the livewell pump and washdown pump, but there is still a port to access the valve handles. I replaced my livewell pump and it was easy to cut the silicone, remove the panel then reapply the silicone after. My bilge hasn't had the water accumulation since.
Did you guys buy your boats new or used? This is an access panel for the rigging compartment and comes unsealed from Grady with a label on it warning that it must be sealed. Look in your owners manual on page 8-16(of a 2005 model 222) and it shows the label. Here is a link - http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/manuals/ There are a lot of Grady's running around out there that do not have the panels sealed and any water on the deck will leak into the bilge from there.
 

Average Joe

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I love my Grady for all of the reasons CJ mentioned and then some but our GW club has a factory tour planned in May and you can bet I will be asking a few questions about this part of the boat-building process.
 

jbukie

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this post has been a help to me. I'm taking delivery of a used 2003 222 on may 4th and you can bet i'll be checking that panel to be sure it is sealed. Just to confirm we're talking about the small one inside the splash guard? What about the larger panel for gas tank access, i'm assuming this is sealed.

Also as far as the metal trim i think i'm going to use gradyfish's idea and 4200 around the metal trim for this season and take a look into removing it and glassing over the joint next spring. Not enough time this year and the bass are coming.

Another question for you guys, if i have to redrill holes below the water line say for the trim tab screws, should those be filled with 4200, 5200, re glassed, or epoxied before i redrill the screw?

Thanks guys, so much info on this site. I'm looking forward to my grady, wood core and all.
 

gradyfish22

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jbukie, fill those holes with 4200 and put the screws back in. I plan to unscrew many fittings and seal them with 4200 myself before my boat splashes, I have 2 weeks before then. The previous owner did not do so and when we bought last spring it went in before I had time to do work that was beyond a necessity at the time.
When you take delivery, make sure the deck plate in the well is caulked, that should be the dealers responsibility, not yours!!! Any dealers not doing so are not doing their job properly. As stated in the manual, it is done at the factory unless rigging is not done there, if the dealer rigs the engines, they should be doing this. If a dealer has a problem doing so, I'd call Grady direct and it will get taken care of quickly. Good luck with the new rig!!