Had a sweet deal on one of those carry-on AC units. The owner let me use it for a weekend to see if I liked it. Wife picked up her end to help put it on the hatch and quickly said NFW so it's on to a hard installation. Read lots of posts on this and working on plan and parts list. For you guys that have done this, is there a mounting platform under the galley sink? Is there a dedicated cable for power? Did you use the microwave power line? Are plans available from Grady, will they supply them? Pump location? Thru hull location? Thanks Guys!
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New A/C on a '99 Sailfish
- Thread starter Tucker
- Start date
ahill
Well-Known Member
The good thing about the hatch mounted unit is that is self contained and cools the cabin altho I've never used one. A 110 connection is required. Much like a roof mounted RV unit.
Marine air requires a 110 v outlet thru hull fittings, pump and a remote mounting location plus routing supply and return ducts.
I went with a marine unit on my 272 because once its installed it requires little maintenance as opposed to mounting and connecting the hatch mount everytime you want to use it.
In any event, cold AC is delightful!
Marine air requires a 110 v outlet thru hull fittings, pump and a remote mounting location plus routing supply and return ducts.
I went with a marine unit on my 272 because once its installed it requires little maintenance as opposed to mounting and connecting the hatch mount everytime you want to use it.
In any event, cold AC is delightful!
ocnslr
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No platform. Build your own.
Not prewired. We had an unused breaker slot at the bottom of the AC power panel. Added a breaker there and wired from there.
Installed 6,500-BTU Reverse Cycle Mermaid Marine Air. If I had it to do again, I would get the one with the electric heating element instead of reverse-cycle.
Agree on go permanent or NFW.
Not prewired. We had an unused breaker slot at the bottom of the AC power panel. Added a breaker there and wired from there.
Installed 6,500-BTU Reverse Cycle Mermaid Marine Air. If I had it to do again, I would get the one with the electric heating element instead of reverse-cycle.
Agree on go permanent or NFW.
The Marine Air packages have reverse cycle. What are the disadvantages? Where is the return grill mounted? Ahill, I recall reading a post saying your supply is in a step riser. Has it ever been kicked when unconsiously running up or down the steps? Sent Grady an email about plans but nothing yet. I'll give them a call and see how they feel about giving out any plans or procedures. Thanks Gents.
BobP
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Tucker, go to Grady website and look at your year and model owners manual. It will show the layout of where the components are. And the photos in the catalog may show the vent locations. Your year model I believe was offered with optional A/C.
Defender Marine has occassional sales, very good ones, bought the same as Brian - was on the fence for a while.
Had the choice for the electric heat but went with the reverse cyle, would go electric heat next time, there is more ampere draw with electric heat, not so good if using portable generator on water instead of shore power. I had prewired a 15 amp circuit and was too lazy to rerun 20A and new breaker. The reverse cycle mode is noisy, and obvious about it, but I believe can generate more BTU of heat than the electric 1500W, depending on water temp.
My model year didn't offer A/C, I built access into and a new floor under the closed galley area to locate the unit, a lot of wasted space under there.
Make sure you tilt floor properly to drain condensate, had to do it all over again when I didn't.
A thru hull fitting, valve, 120V SW pump, strainer, get installed at stern, hose it up to ac unit, SW goes out the side of hull. Mermaid Marine has good instruction on website. The better controller was offered for free and basically you wire it all together, has a junction/control box on an umbilical cord.
I used the step for the outlet with a round rotary adjuster than can change direction. Can send you a website linke for various vents. The return draws mostly from the lower berth area. See how the grady owners manual located the outlets and returns, perhaps they blow air into lower berth also.
I would have liked to get a cold air line into head but crossing over beam was a challenge from where unit is. Best to mount unit than in rear service area behind lower berth, I would have but have the vacuflush vacuum generator/storage unit is back there now.
Defender Marine has occassional sales, very good ones, bought the same as Brian - was on the fence for a while.
Had the choice for the electric heat but went with the reverse cyle, would go electric heat next time, there is more ampere draw with electric heat, not so good if using portable generator on water instead of shore power. I had prewired a 15 amp circuit and was too lazy to rerun 20A and new breaker. The reverse cycle mode is noisy, and obvious about it, but I believe can generate more BTU of heat than the electric 1500W, depending on water temp.
My model year didn't offer A/C, I built access into and a new floor under the closed galley area to locate the unit, a lot of wasted space under there.
Make sure you tilt floor properly to drain condensate, had to do it all over again when I didn't.
A thru hull fitting, valve, 120V SW pump, strainer, get installed at stern, hose it up to ac unit, SW goes out the side of hull. Mermaid Marine has good instruction on website. The better controller was offered for free and basically you wire it all together, has a junction/control box on an umbilical cord.
I used the step for the outlet with a round rotary adjuster than can change direction. Can send you a website linke for various vents. The return draws mostly from the lower berth area. See how the grady owners manual located the outlets and returns, perhaps they blow air into lower berth also.
I would have liked to get a cold air line into head but crossing over beam was a challenge from where unit is. Best to mount unit than in rear service area behind lower berth, I would have but have the vacuflush vacuum generator/storage unit is back there now.
BobP
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By the way, Brian gave me some tips before I did mine, even though the Islander is a different configuration because of narrower beam.
And I never hit the outlet vent on the step side going up and down a zillion times.
I have only one vent now on a 4 inch line (I think), should really have two per instructions (certain square area outlets and return).
My A/C model has cold air outlet at top, there are three different choices available.
I also had to change galley sink drain style to tight 90 deg since it's right above AC.
A tight fit, a lot of work, and not cheap. The tight almost impossible fit was one reason I was on the fence for a few years. If it didn't fit, long return ride back to Florida factory!
The SW pump makes some noise that's why best at stern, was going to install it under cabin deck.
I actually scoped out using a 5K BTU window unit at 110 bucks incl remote control from Best Buy- right thru the cabin bulkhead, but it would have to be slid out and dock stored each time not using it (leaving dock). No water, hoses, thru hulls, pump, vents, returns, hoses, seperate feeds and breaker, etc.
And I never hit the outlet vent on the step side going up and down a zillion times.
I have only one vent now on a 4 inch line (I think), should really have two per instructions (certain square area outlets and return).
My A/C model has cold air outlet at top, there are three different choices available.
I also had to change galley sink drain style to tight 90 deg since it's right above AC.
A tight fit, a lot of work, and not cheap. The tight almost impossible fit was one reason I was on the fence for a few years. If it didn't fit, long return ride back to Florida factory!
The SW pump makes some noise that's why best at stern, was going to install it under cabin deck.
I actually scoped out using a 5K BTU window unit at 110 bucks incl remote control from Best Buy- right thru the cabin bulkhead, but it would have to be slid out and dock stored each time not using it (leaving dock). No water, hoses, thru hulls, pump, vents, returns, hoses, seperate feeds and breaker, etc.
Big help, thanks Bob. Where do you have the control? Are the digital units that much better than the old syle with knobs? Grady wasn't much help. I asked for plans and was told they aren't available. Cust rep did say the unit is mounted in the aft cabin and all the rigging tubes are in place. Checking the manual tonight for any details. They don't supply the head. Believe I've read about guys putting the unit under the steps. According to the Mermaid site the 5000 BTU unit may be too small, so looking at the 6500 model. Need to get in the aft cabin with a cordless and start taking things apart. How difficult was it to fabricate a base for the unit? Are any fasteners exposed?
ahill
Well-Known Member
My Marineairrr is under the galley.
Condensate drains to the shower sump and is Teed into the galley sink drain.
When running the ac I close the sink stopper to limit drain noise.
Condensate drains to the shower sump and is Teed into the galley sink drain.
When running the ac I close the sink stopper to limit drain noise.
BobP
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The FX1 controller was a free upgrade, mounted it near the cabin ceiling over the port windows. Screwed it into the cabin rod rack on a 90 deg bracket. The FX1 varies the fan speed automatically, among some other features. I have no problem with old school knobs but even the cruise/air marineair (both now owned by Dometic) have digital controllers.
5000 is too small if you intend to be in cabin in daylight. Gets very hot in there like a car, no difference. The 6500 doesn't get the job done either unless cabin door stays closed but it's good enough especially in humidity which is the worse for me, not heat.
9000 is actually same size as 6500 Mermaid, but way too big at night will cycle too much I figure. Otherwise wished I went with 9000 as is same size.
Check owners manual for location of A/C components, I did same research on newer Sails and Marlins. Under the steps toward the hull wall / sink is where my unit is, but I recall Grady had it in the lower berth somewhere perhaps mistaken or it was the Marlin. The cold hose comes out the top truns 90 deg goes to behind upper most step for 4 in round adjustable vents. It would fit behind the lower berth rear service panel as I recall. Makes for an easy return air grille, but longer haul for cold air supply, easy supply to starboard side say inside head. I created a large opening in the lower berth wall behind the steps for access and return air source.
Unit sits on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood, 4 screws at corners. I added a few more pieces of ply to the hull tabed in and/or existing grid to get the angle right. Needs to tilt down forward a bit if the drain is out the bow end. No big deal for me working with plywood, resin, and glass. All the wood is either glassed or soaked with resin. I used the project 3/4 in. ply sold at the depot, the one with the many layers of ply.
5000 is too small if you intend to be in cabin in daylight. Gets very hot in there like a car, no difference. The 6500 doesn't get the job done either unless cabin door stays closed but it's good enough especially in humidity which is the worse for me, not heat.
9000 is actually same size as 6500 Mermaid, but way too big at night will cycle too much I figure. Otherwise wished I went with 9000 as is same size.
Check owners manual for location of A/C components, I did same research on newer Sails and Marlins. Under the steps toward the hull wall / sink is where my unit is, but I recall Grady had it in the lower berth somewhere perhaps mistaken or it was the Marlin. The cold hose comes out the top truns 90 deg goes to behind upper most step for 4 in round adjustable vents. It would fit behind the lower berth rear service panel as I recall. Makes for an easy return air grille, but longer haul for cold air supply, easy supply to starboard side say inside head. I created a large opening in the lower berth wall behind the steps for access and return air source.
Unit sits on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood, 4 screws at corners. I added a few more pieces of ply to the hull tabed in and/or existing grid to get the angle right. Needs to tilt down forward a bit if the drain is out the bow end. No big deal for me working with plywood, resin, and glass. All the wood is either glassed or soaked with resin. I used the project 3/4 in. ply sold at the depot, the one with the many layers of ply.
BobP
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If behind the lower berth rear service panel, the floor already exists, should be 3/4 in. formica double faced same as under berth cushions, I think. It's that way on mine.
Thanks Gents. Printed out New Installation Tips from Wright Marine Air Conditioning. They mention a mistake on many installations is allowing bilge air to enter the return. They indicated that sealing off bilge air is imperative because the unit will never be able to keep up with bilge humitity. They also indicate that is is best NOT to have the evaporator directly behind the return grill; should be spaced 3"-4". Is this a real-life concern. I'm considering installation behind the steps and a single supply to a vent in top stair riser. Was planning on using pressure treated lumber. Not much of a carpender and have even less skills with fiberglass. Comments? criticisms?
Cut 8" access hole in rear 1/2" glassed bulkhead directly behind steps yesterday. There appears to be a stiffner running from the outboard side across the middle as additional support for the bulkhead. I almost cut all the way thru it before noticing it. Got half the hole cut and stopped. Seems to be a stiffner coming up from the stringer to the bottom of the step. Bob did you cut any of this to install your unit? Reading your post better, it appears the evaporator is actually against the opening in the bulkhead so you didn't need to seal off any bilge air correct?
Bringing this to the top...again. Ahill & Bob. Did you bother to seal off bilge air when installing your units. Not sure evaporator coil can go directly against the bulkhead behind the steps. Thanks Guys!
ahill
Well-Known Member
The installation was done by PBMC, Grady dealer.
The data sheet says not to hard duct the unit so it is open to bilge.
Unit is under galley.
My RA is in aft cabin behind steps. Make sure it is uncovered when the unit is running.
Main supply is in cabin step riser, second supply inside head on front bulkhead. Supply vanes shut to avoid shower water intrusion.
FX controller mounted in front galley bulkhead right of stove, above bunk cushion.
Mine is a rev cycle & heats well on the occasional day we need it in S. FL
The data sheet says not to hard duct the unit so it is open to bilge.
Unit is under galley.
My RA is in aft cabin behind steps. Make sure it is uncovered when the unit is running.
Main supply is in cabin step riser, second supply inside head on front bulkhead. Supply vanes shut to avoid shower water intrusion.
FX controller mounted in front galley bulkhead right of stove, above bunk cushion.
Mine is a rev cycle & heats well on the occasional day we need it in S. FL
Thanks ahill. The data sheet is what I tried to get from Grady, but they're not offering much help. Closest Grady dealer is about 100 miles away so I'm using local guys.