Does any one have any advice on trailer bearings?? I am in fresh water only. My trailer has grease fittings right in the end of the axles. You pull a little rubber plug and grease these fittings. Today I pulled my wheels only to find chunks of grease around the inside of the rim on all four wheels. I was told to pump grease into the fitting until it started to come out the dust cap hole and then replace the rubber cap. Can't understand why it came out of my grease seals, the seals are a double lip deal made for this type of set up ( putting grease in the end of the Axel) Has any one had any experience with this type of bearings and seals or had any problems.
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Trailer Bearings
- Thread starter Double Eagle
- Start date
Amigo
Well-Known Member
DE
I worked in the industrial bearing industry for 30 years. Sounds like you bought a used unit. I have bought a few used trailers. Tthe wheel bearings are the first things I check.
For some folks, when lubricating, they think" if a little bit is good a whole lot is better". From the way you describe the application the only place excess grease can exit is through the back seals. Pressure will build inside the hub with the heat that will build up. Typically, lip type seals will only hold about 5 pounds of pressure - or less.
I also have similar hubs on my boat trailer. Yearly I remove the hub cap and inspect. If there is any sign of water/moisture a rebuild is in order. Sometimes water will run out and sometimes the grease will be a white or gray color indicating moisture mixed into the grease.
I worked in the industrial bearing industry for 30 years. Sounds like you bought a used unit. I have bought a few used trailers. Tthe wheel bearings are the first things I check.
For some folks, when lubricating, they think" if a little bit is good a whole lot is better". From the way you describe the application the only place excess grease can exit is through the back seals. Pressure will build inside the hub with the heat that will build up. Typically, lip type seals will only hold about 5 pounds of pressure - or less.
I also have similar hubs on my boat trailer. Yearly I remove the hub cap and inspect. If there is any sign of water/moisture a rebuild is in order. Sometimes water will run out and sometimes the grease will be a white or gray color indicating moisture mixed into the grease.
Amigo
Well-Known Member
Further thought -
If you remove the hub from the axel and take a good look at the bearigs, - and I would urge you to do so - if you see spalling on the bearing surface obviously they would be replaced. However, if you see dark stains on the raceway surfaces or on the rollers the bearing should also be replaced. This is "moisture" stain and spalling will eventually occur directly on the stains.
Always replace both the cup and cone. The cup is pressed into the hub and the cone, with the rollers, is a slip fit on the axel.
If you remove the hub from the axel and take a good look at the bearigs, - and I would urge you to do so - if you see spalling on the bearing surface obviously they would be replaced. However, if you see dark stains on the raceway surfaces or on the rollers the bearing should also be replaced. This is "moisture" stain and spalling will eventually occur directly on the stains.
Always replace both the cup and cone. The cup is pressed into the hub and the cone, with the rollers, is a slip fit on the axel.
All bearing , races and grease seals will be replaced. I bought this trailer new and have greased it as I was told or should say as I thought I was told!!! I have a lot of clean up to do and looking forward to packing those new bearings.
G8RDave
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you have either posi-lube (pump grease until it comes out the front) that went bad or sur-lube (pump grease until it comes out the back). Probably sur-lube working correctly and you were just mis-informed on how to use it. I have posi-lube and love it. I would think it would be tough to clean off the extra grease of sur-lube hubs. Maybe that's where your grease chunks are coming from on the inside of the rim. Of course, I could be completely wrong on all counts and your rear seals are just shot.
I think what happened was that I over greased them and then when the bearings warmed up and the grease expanded a little it had no where to go but out the back at the seals. The bad think was that water had also mixed with the grease and got to my bearings. Not a disaster yet but if not corrected it will be. Knock on wood I have never had a bearing fail as of yet and I'm not wanting to start any time soon. So If you are a trailer person be smart and check your bearings and look at your grease and make sure it doesn't have water in it. You'll pay the price sooner or later!!
Amigo
Well-Known Member
The biggest problem for the DIY person is getting the old cups (outer raceways) out of your hubs. The cups are an interference fit in the hub.
You could find a local auto repair shop that has a press that would do this for you. They can also clean out the old grease and install the new cups into the hub.
Have the inner seal and inner cone available. Put the inner cone in the hub (small end in) and then have them press in the seal also.
Dealing with the bearing cups in the hubs is the toughest part of the job.
It is also difficult getting the seal pressed into the hub without misalignment. The metal case is thin and can easily be distorted which will effect the rubber lip.
You could find a local auto repair shop that has a press that would do this for you. They can also clean out the old grease and install the new cups into the hub.
Have the inner seal and inner cone available. Put the inner cone in the hub (small end in) and then have them press in the seal also.
Dealing with the bearing cups in the hubs is the toughest part of the job.
It is also difficult getting the seal pressed into the hub without misalignment. The metal case is thin and can easily be distorted which will effect the rubber lip.
OakIsland
Member
Sounds like you have this sort of spindle....
http://www.championtrailers.com/spindles_n_parts.html
I had these and they never performed properly.... always tending to heat up and then suck water in at the boat launch.
I took the original "spindle-lube" dust cap off and.....
http://www.championtrailers.com/dust_caps.html
replaced it with standard bearing buddies..... end of problems.
http://www.championtrailers.com/bearing_protectors.html
http://www.championtrailers.com/spindles_n_parts.html
I had these and they never performed properly.... always tending to heat up and then suck water in at the boat launch.
I took the original "spindle-lube" dust cap off and.....
http://www.championtrailers.com/dust_caps.html
replaced it with standard bearing buddies..... end of problems.
http://www.championtrailers.com/bearing_protectors.html
You have to be real carefull with the bearing buddies, you can not fill them too much because the heat will expand the grease and it has no where to go but out the back. I think most people tend to pump them full and watch that spring expand to the max.
OakIsland
Member
True....Here's the proper filling procedure:
Q. How do I check the grease level in the hub?
A. Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the Bearing Buddy® piston. Lubricant level can be checked by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. If the piston won't rock or move, add grease until piston moves outward about 1/8 inch. When adding grease, always use a hand grease gun. An automatic grease gun will destroy the hub's inner seal.
See:
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/faqs.htm#7
Q. How do I check the grease level in the hub?
A. Grease can be added to the hub through an easily accessible grease fitting located in the center of the Bearing Buddy® piston. Lubricant level can be checked by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled. If the piston won't rock or move, add grease until piston moves outward about 1/8 inch. When adding grease, always use a hand grease gun. An automatic grease gun will destroy the hub's inner seal.
See:
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/faqs.htm#7