Trailer issues

[RussGW270]

Sorry guys, going to try to keep the issues separate so I can address them as needed.

The trailer. Since I am going to need a new winch, I figured to address the entire trailer need.

1 - I cannot get anything specific on this trailer. I called McClain Trailers and they tell me it is "probably 5600lb axles" but, who the heck knows as they do not put jack.. or DID not put jack.. on the titles etc 15 years ago. The tandem axle wheels always look like they are overloaded.. but, what do I know. Nothing on the trailer tells me anything at all.

2 - The bunks look "tired" as well. They were supposedly replaced the week before I bought the boat, and when I loaded the boat back onto the trailer, the padding/carpet was coming off already.

3 - The winch broke. I figured it was junk... did not last one trip. The arm it sits on is loose as well. So, time to replace/reinforce all of that.

4 - With all of this, time to make sure the boat has the right trailer, and also sits correctly on the trailer.

That being said, no earthly idea where to start.. lol..

Okay, I have an idea.. but, since I cannot afford to just flat out replace the trailer...I have to make it work...at least till next year when I can afford to replace it....or, let is sit the way it is until I can replace it in March... and spend the time working on the rest of the boat. Since I need to do the maintenance and replace the water pumps and impellers and then, I guess,, do the oil changes and.. why the hell not.. swap plugs.. clean the wires etc.. by that time, it may very well BE next March so.. will not waste money on the trailer till I flat out have to By then, may just try to sell it and get a new one.

BUT.. if I was going to fix this one.....

Any tips on a good winch to get for a .. call it 8000lb boat?

Also, the anchor gets in the way of the roller...lower the roller? (may have been the angle, but we had to move the anchor to get it past the roller when on an incline.)

Here is a photo of the winch (below).

Also, think it sits okay on the trailer?

Russ

 

[DennisG01]

You won't be able to lower the winch roller. If you do, the bow eye won't snug up underneath the roller. Sometimes, it's just the name of the game with a pulpit and a hanging anchor. Next time, just set the anchor up on deck before coming into the ramp.

Generally speaking, the proper winch carries a rating of about 1/3 of the boat weight (with gear, etc). It's not a "set in stone" thing, but that's the general idea. Dutton-Lainson or Fulton.

From that picture, it appears the boat is a bit too far forward. It also appears that it's compressing the springs too much (too heavy for the springs) based on the gap between the tires and the fenders - but that could be due to the boat being too far forward, sagging fenders, or even just the angle of the picture.

Russ, are you saying that when you called McClain with your VIN number, they couldn't tell you what axles they put under it? Wow. Remind me to never buy one of those trailers! A title (and your purchase agreement) should ABSOLUTELY have a VIN on it (been that way for decades and decades and decades) - if not, it sounds like something fishy was done by whomever you bought it from. If I remember correctly, you were also never able to find the ID plate on the trailer? As if someone took it off? Back to being fishy again...

 

[RussGW270]

I have a registration from the 2nd buyer. They had a VIN, but McClain just said, "yes, those should be 5600lb axles"... but they could not tell by the vin, just by the fact it was sold "with a Grady and tandem axle"...there is no model # etc.. they had it listed as like 900lbs on the registration with the model as MCCI (mcclain) and the body as TL (trailer)...so, no, they did not have any info on it, but I agree it is not enough for this boat....but, nothing I can do about it at the moment. It tows it fine, once I get the stupid brakes to stop locking up.. and a winch that works.

btw, I also found the pictures of when the last owner bought the boat and it is the exact same trailer. So, it is a McClain.. but I am thinking it is either flat out worn out.. or never should have had this boat on it.

Some of the input amazes me (on tht)... "take off aggressively to make sure it releases every time"... remove the wheels and see if they spin freely.. if not, it is the surge apparatus".... well no duh... lol.. that was why I asked

Ya killin me, Smalls!.. heh

R

 

[Ky Grady]

Take the good with the bad on THT. I don't contribute much on there anymore. As soon as you mention Grady, the wrath of THT descends upon you. If it's not a Yellowfin, Regulator, Contender, Freeman, some other CC brand, your boat is a worthless piece of crap that will rot out from under you, motor fall off transom, tippy, and any number of other negatives that the keyboard boat captain's can come up with. There are some good ones on THT, but you have to weed through the haters to find them. For a good 10 page read, start a thread and ask is a Bayliner better than ________ (insert boat brand). I had a '02 Trophy 2002 that did what I asked of it, had it 16 miles offshore and I survived to fish another day. Can't complain about it and yes it's entry level, got to start somewhere.

Off the soapbox,,,

 

[DennisG01]

Still a shame they can't tell you more about it based on the VIN. I've dealt with multiple trailer companies over the years, and they can ALWAYS tell me EVERYTHING about the trailer based on the VIN. Sounds like McClain isn't so good with record keeping! Like you said, though, it is what it is.

 

[RussGW270]

I was just talking to someone and I think I may have an idea what is going on. I have to check when I get home though....

The master Cylinder in the Titan Model 10 has an actuator arm that goes forward of the cylinder.

The cylinder is encased in a spring-sided 'case'. As the actuator is compressed, the arm goes backwards and pressurizes the lines via the cylinder valve.

Now, the trailer is 15yrs old. The case surrounding the cylinder has rusted springs. That entire thing is pretty worn. When "I" manually 'pump' the brakes, via the emergency cut off lever, it works fine, but I am not an 8klb boat...

What I think is happening is the boat and truck are compressing the actuator and it is worn just enough that the "arm" is catching on something and thus it is stuck inside. Since I removed the assembly, not thinking it was stuck, I never got a chance to check, but...if I bleed the brakes and re-create it all, I bet you I will find the arm gets compressed just enough, and the mechanism is worn just enough, that it is catching on the internal bar crossing that entire thing that is supposed to block it from going further.

I will test this theory and let you know.

R

 

[UCPA111]

Would it be worth replacing the hydraulic surge brake actuator? If you intend to keep for a while, it may get you going....

 

[RussGW270]

Going to see if the actuator can be clean and adjusted. If not, I can replace it.

 

[RussGW270]

They sold me the master cylinder for a drum brake system. I did not catch it till I was looking at something last night.



So, sending the master cylinder back. Installing the old one as it was fine, I only replaced it because it was attached to the reverse lockout. Now that I have it off the trailer, I can remove that and reuse the master cylinder.



I also ordered all new internal parts for the actuator. They should all be here in three next three days, so will have to bleed the brakes again, but at least I know what I need to do this time.

 

[trapper]

Russ, is it not cheaper to buy a new actuator than the sum of the parts and install time? Don't believe they are that expensive. Somehow I think you like the messing about with parts????? Maybe?

 

[RussGW270]

Actually, that was my thinking.. but, turns out the only two real parts are the parts that hold the master cylinder in place and the shocks that keep the actuator from slamming forward. Here are the parts I bought (got both sides):

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=T0838900

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4749501042.html

That is the cylinder inside those...already have a cylinder, so..

I looked at the money... the cylinder alone was like 81 bucks.

The side parts are 25 each.

BUT.. if I buy it all together, it costs me $192....more than buying them separately.

Same with the actuator itself... since the "shell" of the actuator is 351, all that I need is the cylinder, got that already, and the two parts inc.
half the price.

Only reason to get the entire actuator is if you break the hitch.

R

 

[RussGW270]

Just checked the master cylinder that I replaced. Turns out they had the wrong master cylinder as well.

 

[jtselios10]

I assume you have a 272 islander? I have a 282 that I trailer every weekend, it rides on a tri-axle trailer. A few things I did to make it ride better and load better, v block now stop moved winch to top of pole cut off the roller so it doesn’t hit anchor on pulpit. The other major was went up a grade on tires from c-d this added more ply and trailer ride way better.

 

[ocnslr]

I assume you have a 272 islander?.

No such thing as a 272 Islander. Early Islander was 268, then 270. LOA 26’11”, beam 8’6”.

The “272” was the Sailfish that preceded your “282”. A foot longer and a foot wider than an Islander, and about 25% heavier.