What size brass drain tube for Grady Adventure

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#1
I need to replace one of the brass drain tubes in my 1995 Adventure - anyone know the diameter and length brass pipe I need? I am checked out the varies threads on this repair, and thinking of enlarging the hole and using some epoxy to seal - has anyone gone this route and did you have any issues enlarging hole (looks tough given the clearance between the flange inside the well and the well floor).

Don't have the boat local at the moment and want to order parts to make the repair.

Also looking for a flange tool if someone is looking to sell (also posted in the for sale/wanted section).
 

Fishtales

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#2
I'm thinking these are all the same on the GWs. You could measure the ID with a digital vernier/caliper. To get the ID. Assuming you get it out clean, you can measure the OD as well as the hole.
In parallel, shoot GW an email via the Customer Service link on their website. They should be able to provide the part. Another is to talk to your local dealer, they may have the part number (if you want to buy from GW) or potentially have industry part number so you can obtain locally.
 

SkunkBoat

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#3
If you are going to widen and epoxy the holes, you don't need the brass tubes.
Just color the epoxy or finish it with some paint. Put some scupper flaps on the outside.

They only use the brass tubes to save time....drill hole, hammer in tube, flare end, done... they don't seal very well

Just like the aluminum transom cap...to save production time...
When they connect the cap to the hull, the rub rail hides the seam except at the transom. If they glassed and sanded and tried to match the gelcoat it would take two days...
 

DennisG01

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#4
I agree. There's is absolutely nothing special to a brass tube and no reason to NOT get rid of it in favor of resin/glass.

The garboard drain on my Grady was actually a brass tube. When I rebuilt the floor I also drilled that brass tube out, glassed the hole and then re-drilled for a proper garboard drain plug (screw in). There was no way I was going to let my boat sit on a mooring with just a silly, expanding rubber plug to keep it from sinking!
 
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#11
Parts on the way. Forgot to mention in the PM I included some left over brass tubing I used (bought from McMasterCarr).

You may find you’ll end up changing all the brass tubes once you see how easy it is to do.

Good Luck
 
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#13
When I did mine a few years ago I went a few steps further. Reading about the dreaded rotten GW transom syndrome I unbolted my 150hp Yammy, lifted up a few inches with a gantry crane, removed and resealed all hardware penetrating the transom, including kicker bracket and swim platform. It was a huge relief everything was dry underneath. Hopefully yours will be too.

IIRC some wet/rotted transom problems could be traced to leaking scupper or splash well drains.