Another A/P question

30marlin

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I pretty much made up my mind that I want the Simrad Autopilot.
I like the color display in the Raymarine but it seams everyone on all the boards I checked say the Simrad unit is the way to go.

My question is the about the A/P pump. Has anyone installed the Teleflex pump that bolts up to the power assist unit or should I go with the Simrad pump? I tried talking with the guy in that mobile Raymarine trailer that they had set up in West Marine when I was looking at their system but he was clueless and could only tell me what was in the brochure.

Is the Teleflex one any good. I would be nice not having to cut into the lines.

Thanks
 

kmhitecman

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I HAVE INSTALLED A LOT OF AP PUMPS WITH POWER ASSIST STEERING ON GRADYS.BUT IT IS BETTER IF INSTALLED BUY SOMEONE WITH POWER PURGE SYSTEM FOR BLEEDING . I HAVE ALL THE DATA AND DRAWINGS FROM TELEFLEX. THAT U NEED.FOR INSTALL.
 

bc282

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Did you consider the Garmin A/P?
I considered Simrad 24 series, Garmin and Raymaine X series and ended up choosing the Garmin (which is mostly the old TR1).
One feature i really like and believe it makes it an extremely nice safety feature is the shadow drive.
I usually give everyone on board the safety speech, MOB procedures and show them where the safety stuff is, but i think it's a lot to ask newbies how to shut off or operate the AP so having the shadow drive allow people to instinctively turn the wheel and override the pilot is a great safety feature. also to very quickly react and grab the wheel to avoid a collision or worse and not fight the pilot is sweet as it's much faster to do than push buttons.
only one full season with my AP which i installed myself, and i absolutely love it and would not have another boat without a pilot.
 

30marlin

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Thanks guys.

I was looking at the Garmin again today. I like their color display and the Shadow Drive is a great feature.
Most times when I spot debris I don't think I would have time to reach and disable the A/P.

Looking at the install manual I see it needs to be tapped into the Yamaha Command Link for RPM.
I don't think that should to be much of a problem with the right adapter.
The 2.1 L pump looks a bit complicated if that is what is need for twin 250's
Maybe I will go back and do some more research again. I wish Garmin would have a little better web page on their
A/P.

Thanks again.
 

bc282

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You do not need any expensive adapters to tap into the Yami gauges as you just in-line splice into the 'green' tach wire off each tach gauge.
i used the appropriate marine bullet connectors with an in-line bullet spice and was done in a couple minutes--very easy.
FYI, i had contacted Yamaha to see if an adapter exists, but they had no knowledge of one, and besides its easy and cheap enough to do without an expensive OEM part.
here's a link a splice similar to what i used> http://www3.3m.com/catalog/au/en005/uti ... utput_html

i'd recommend to download the install manual off the Garmin website and study it and plan the install.
what most AP do not tell you about the install is about the hydraulic line. they spec the min. requirements and then you are off to decide from there.
i choose to save some $ and bought a AP hose kit from Teleflex and made my own lines using their stiff plastic lines and fittings from my local marine chandler. Definitely more time consuming to make your own lines. you can use anything from common rubber hydraulic lines and std fittings to brass or expensive stainless fittings and quick disconnects. I'd recommend getting stainless if you can but brass would be fine (avoid standard steel fittings as they will eventually freeze and may not be able to remove it later). Modern plastic hose is better than the much less expensive rubber hose lines as it should be more chemical resistant and is much thinner in diameter, but generally more stiff and difficult to with (the pre-made Teleflex or Uflex hoses are not stiff and fine for handling). Here's a link for brass quick disconnects > http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/pr ... 700-xx.htm
if you go the pre-made hose route, you'll need to know the near exact length (a little over is fine, short and you're hooped) of the lines you'll need (Teleflex come in 2' increment lengths from what i can remember).

for the Garmin AP, you'll need 6 lines (2 long runs from pump to steering ram line, 1 short from helm to shadow drive, 1 from shadow drive to pump, 2 from helm to pump)
The 2.1L pump is not complicated--but i'd spend a bit more here on install to go with quick disconnects to speed and make the install much easier as the location of the pump and helm rear access is never ideal nor easy.

This is something to consider> level of difficulty for install 3 out of 5 IMO., and very time consuming as planning is key (i spent more time planning than installing!).
if you have no desire to do your own install consider a technician or shop that is NMEA200 certified as that i believe will lengthen your warranty by an additional year and should something break or fail, the repair including labor would be covered by Garmin.

Good luck, i think you've made a very good decision on getting an AP, i love mine and wouldn't have another boat without one.
 

30marlin

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Thanks again for the write up.

I have been looking the manual over good.
One thing I didn't like is that you have to mount the control unit with 19 inchs of the pump. I was hoping to mount the
unit inside the dash console and put the pump down on the helm floor next to the Seastar pump.
They don't have extension cables for it either.

I do see a lot of places selling the components cheap on closeout. I hope Garmin has not discontinued it.
 

bc282

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i mounted the various components as follows: (perhaps on the Marlin it could be very similar)
- pump > starboard side in the aft bunk. mounted on an alum. bracket that's fastened to a stringer like piece of the boat
- ECU > on a bulk head on the starboard side in the aft bunk
- Gyro/compass > under storage area of the aft bunk fastened to the forward bulkhead in this area (i think i bought a 6' extension for this NMEA2000 cable as it was just a foot too short)
- shadow drive > console

I dont' think Garmin is disco'ing their pilot as it has been successful and Garmin is a big company.
you have to use all Garmin parts including the pump as it's proprietary to the system unlike other pilots.
 

dduflo

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I installed the Garmin on my Islander 270 and it is one sweet unit. We slow troll on Lake Ontario and it works very well even in a cross wind and choppy seas. NO rudder reference needed.
I looked at Simrad and spoke to a technician that had installed several of them and he said that the first thing that Simrad will say when you have a problem is to add the rudder reference. They are owned by Navco and their Customer Service leaves a lot to be desired.
A couple hints. I made several copies of the installation manual so that one was on the bench, another on board and another on my nightstand so I could reread the directions. The control unit being near the pump was no problem, I mounted it on the bulkhead and once installed I've never looked at it. Be sure to use a decent hand held compass to locate your fluxgate away from anything magnetic like pumps, anchor chain, or wiring. I needed to purchase a longer cable that goes between the fluxgate and control unit and ended up with an extra. PM me if you need one. Mine is wired into my GPS and that is really handy for following a Track or goint to specific points, following Routes, etc. I bought a Teleflex 2nd helm station kit from West Marine and got some of the fittings from Home Depot. I carry a couple extras on board just in case one pops loose. I also bought a PVC cutter from Home Depot that makes cutting the lines a snap. Your Yamaha Tachs are already set up to accept Bullet Connectors. Be sure you completly purge your lines to get all the air out and, once installed, I had to run through the setup proceedure 2 or 3 times to get the compas oriented correctly. Good luck and PM me if you have a question.
 

bc282

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here's a couple pics of pump and ECU that are installed on the starboard area beside the aft bunk.
the Gyro/compass is mounted in the under storage area under the aft bunk.
yami tach; green wire is the tach wire with bullet connections

AP%20pump%20ECU%20resized.jpg

gyro%20under%20aft%20bunk%20resized.jpg

yami%20tach%20wiring.jpg
 

30marlin

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Thanks bc282 and dduflo.
The pictures are a big help and gave me a few ideas. I will have to pull the covers in the aft bunk and see what kind of room I have to work with.

Thanks again guys.