What is everyone using when they take the large DECK PLATES over the fuel tanks up and then reinstall. I know their was a thread about building new plates and reinstall, but a search did not show anything. Thank, you. Jim
CAULKING FUEL TANK DECK PLATES
- Thread starter jimintheair3
- Start date
I like Life Seal, (by Boat Life).
Large tube for cauking gun - http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 8&id=15221
Also available in a smaller, 2.8 oz tube, (c&p link) - http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 8&id=14781
Large tube for cauking gun - http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 8&id=15221
Also available in a smaller, 2.8 oz tube, (c&p link) - http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... 8&id=14781
Hookup1
GreatGrady Captain
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Order the O-rings from McMaster.com but check you size. These are what I ordered for my '97 Islander.
McMaster.com p/n 9452K516 Their are 5 in a package. $4 but with shipping it will cost you $10. Buy them locally at your own risk!
I caulked my plates with fast setting 5200 or the LifeSeal equiv. These products are polyurathane and have adhesive properties in addition to sealing.
NOTE!!!! Just to clarify, I caulk the deck plate outer ring to the deck and install new rubber O-rings on the inserts with a little silicone lube (no caulk).
For the deck I used a high quality silicone bath and tub sealant from Home Depot. The silicone is easier to remove the next time you need to take the deck up. Scrape most of the caulk is off and wipe down with lacqur thinner. Use masking tape to tape out the edges and re-caulk. Squirt plenty of caulk in the gap to fill it.
McMaster.com p/n 9452K516 Their are 5 in a package. $4 but with shipping it will cost you $10. Buy them locally at your own risk!
I caulked my plates with fast setting 5200 or the LifeSeal equiv. These products are polyurathane and have adhesive properties in addition to sealing.
NOTE!!!! Just to clarify, I caulk the deck plate outer ring to the deck and install new rubber O-rings on the inserts with a little silicone lube (no caulk).
For the deck I used a high quality silicone bath and tub sealant from Home Depot. The silicone is easier to remove the next time you need to take the deck up. Scrape most of the caulk is off and wipe down with lacqur thinner. Use masking tape to tape out the edges and re-caulk. Squirt plenty of caulk in the gap to fill it.
I've used 5200, lifeseal and GE II, and prefer the GE II in almond. It holds up better, the color matches Grady gelcoat almost perfectly, and silicone is what the plate makers recommend. Especially with the lifeseal, I've had the adhesive caulks come unsealed and let water drain down onto the tanks. I use electrical tape to outline the deck recess, then use a liberal dose of the silicone on the plate. Once screwed into place, I use a finger to make a nice fillet between the edge of the deck plate and the lip of the deck around the plate. If the silicone bead eventually separates from the plate you can easily see it and then reseal. If you keep the silicone only directly under the plate, you can't tell as easily when the seal is compromised. The almond GE II looks great when the deck plate is also almond/gelcoat colored.
Depending on the year of your boat the white or almond GEII is great for the edges. Use 3M 4000UV to seal the screws, you don't want water seeping past the screws.
catch22 said:
Best stuff..!! Just re-did my deck this morning. You may need 1-1 1/2 large tubes to finish the job.
GE 1700 series in almond is what Grady uses. I purchased a GE silcone 2 in almond, very close match and can be bought at home depot or lowes, 1700 series would need to be ordered. Use boatlife to seal all screws into deck and support below to make sure they are water tight. I would even consider 4200 for this application personally, no need for 5200 would be way overkill. If it is a deck hatch on the floor, 4200 it then fill in seem with GE silicone. Boatlife is good stuff but would not be my choice for your application, only thing I would use it for is screws if at all, 4200 would be best to seal them.