I am planning on replacing the existing tranducer to a B260 and install separate temerature sensor this spring. the issue is not the transducer hole rather the fairing bolt hole on new fairing doesnot line up. What product(s) should I use to fill that hole prior to installing and setting the new fairing? Any suggestion would be appreciated.
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Changing transducer and fairing block - filling the hole?
- Thread starter Moxsea
- Start date
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Epoxy....you can thicken it up with milled fibers and cab-o-sil to make it a strong and peanut butter consistency paste if working upside down....maybe a little less stiff if working from above and want the resin to fill the hole easier. Make sure the hole is clean and roughed up a bit...you can wipe it with a little alcohol or acetone on a rag or little brush/Q-tip. Wet the hole first with some neat epoxy then fill in with the thickened stuff....let cure and do what you gotta do....make sure its painted afterwards. If you need to squirt it into the hole, they sell little plastic injectors for just a few bucks. Inject and then toss it.
BobP
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Thanks for the responses, the hole is 5/8". I like the idea of milled fiber reinforcement in an Epoxy base. I can't help but worry about a catasprophic Blow-Out. But on the otherhand it will be sandwiched between the fairing block and i'll apply 4200 inside and ouside on the hull before overlaying the fairing block. Do you think a fiberglass mesh patch on the outside or inside is overkill? I'm overnighting offshore several time a year just want to cover my bases! I'm doing this job myself since the orignal tranducer was not installed tight to the hull since I was drawn to it by seeing fishing line that got in between the hull and the fairing when I got hauled this season. Doesn't leave you with a warm fuzzy feeling.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
A layer of glass to cover the hole can only help.......you can even take some 6oz cloth and wet it out and roll it and stuff it into the hole with some thickened epoxy as well...the more glass the better...with the epoxy, milled fiber and a little glass, its not going anywhere and it will be water tight.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Haven't yet removed the old unt, planning it first week in march. Then i will get a good look. still have to remove the caulking and lift the deck to get in there. My guess would be 5/8" to 3/4" if i was a gambling man. Jack
Hoghunter
Well-Known Member
Moxsea said:Haven't yet removed the old unt, planning it first week in march. Then i will get a good look. still have to remove the caulking and lift the deck to get in there. My guess would be 5/8" to 3/4" if i was a gambling man. Jack
Your guess is pretty good. My hull on the 305 at dead center two feet forward of transom was a little over 3/4" and solid glass.
BobP
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Bevel both openings on inside and outside hull to 45 deg angle or so.
You can use a dremel tool with the sanding drum or other attachment.
A thin round hand file works too. Thisnk of a flat head machine bolt, want to create a similar V shape.
Clean out area with acetone.
Duck tape bottom of hull side, 2 layers.
Wet all surfaces with unthickened epoxy resin, use those brushes West Systems sells or the like.
Then mix up and fill hole with thickened epoxy resin using silica, thick enough so it pours ever so slowly, fill hole slowly not to trap air bubbles.
Remove duck tape when cured.
Nothing with blow that out except a SHOT GUN !
However if still nervous, one layer of 1708 over inside hole - 3 inch diameter patch. If you sand the area first, can lay it right over top of filled hole when still wet.
You can use a dremel tool with the sanding drum or other attachment.
A thin round hand file works too. Thisnk of a flat head machine bolt, want to create a similar V shape.
Clean out area with acetone.
Duck tape bottom of hull side, 2 layers.
Wet all surfaces with unthickened epoxy resin, use those brushes West Systems sells or the like.
Then mix up and fill hole with thickened epoxy resin using silica, thick enough so it pours ever so slowly, fill hole slowly not to trap air bubbles.
Remove duck tape when cured.
Nothing with blow that out except a SHOT GUN !
However if still nervous, one layer of 1708 over inside hole - 3 inch diameter patch. If you sand the area first, can lay it right over top of filled hole when still wet.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
If you were to make a repair on a hole that wasn't covered by the fairing block, then you definitely need to bevel around the hole, but the bevel/diameter is based on the thickness of the laminate in that area. If your hull for example is 3/4 inch thick, you need to bevel a diameter at a 12:1 ratio or better....that means a 9 inch gradual more shallow bevel....this will allow the layers of glass to remain as flat and perpendicular to the load, just like the factory layup, with plenty of surface area for the epoxy to bond. If its 1 inch thick, you need to go 12 inches around....if its 1/2 inch thick, then only 6 inches around...etc.
You add each layer one at a time, starting with the largest patch first and working you way out getting smaller, so when you finish grind/sand you don't cut through multiple layers underneath. Then just fair and do your new block. Squeeze out the bubbles as you go along and because you're upside down, a little thickener will help hold it in place. You can cover it in plastic and brace it into place until cured if needed...the plastic will remove easily later.
You don't need to bevel the inside like the outside, but as Bob mentioned a flat layer from the inside should be done to cover the hole initially and give something to the outside patches/layers to bond to at the point of the hole..do this first.....just need to prep an area from the inside close to the same size (diameter wise) as the outside (if you can) and lay a couple layers of glass tape or the one layer 0f 1708 will do it.
This is a typical repair technique for a hole or hull damage....as mentioned before, with the fairing block covering the old hole, its not AS critical....but if you want the ultimate satisfaction, this will be virtually shotgun proof.
You add each layer one at a time, starting with the largest patch first and working you way out getting smaller, so when you finish grind/sand you don't cut through multiple layers underneath. Then just fair and do your new block. Squeeze out the bubbles as you go along and because you're upside down, a little thickener will help hold it in place. You can cover it in plastic and brace it into place until cured if needed...the plastic will remove easily later.
You don't need to bevel the inside like the outside, but as Bob mentioned a flat layer from the inside should be done to cover the hole initially and give something to the outside patches/layers to bond to at the point of the hole..do this first.....just need to prep an area from the inside close to the same size (diameter wise) as the outside (if you can) and lay a couple layers of glass tape or the one layer 0f 1708 will do it.
This is a typical repair technique for a hole or hull damage....as mentioned before, with the fairing block covering the old hole, its not AS critical....but if you want the ultimate satisfaction, this will be virtually shotgun proof.
BobP
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None of the advise in these threads is no good, it all works.
Much of what one feels is more important, for instance, if the guy is staying up nights thinking his boat is sinking at the dock from a hole he sealed below the water line, then we are here to offer advise on getting a good night's sleep, too.
Much of what one feels is more important, for instance, if the guy is staying up nights thinking his boat is sinking at the dock from a hole he sealed below the water line, then we are here to offer advise on getting a good night's sleep, too.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Bob, I agree....but there are varying degrees of a repair based on size, location. and risk factor. Above and below the waterline. So each scenario is different.
This is what was taught to us by West System at their facility.
This is what was taught to us by West System at their facility.
BobP
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Yes it is.
For a 5/8 inch hole which I consider substantial, I would bevel a bit both sides. No 12/1 ratio, but a bevel. 60 grit all surfaces.
Wouldn't use any glass inside, just fill hole with silica thickened epoxy then just paint over bottom with bottom paint.
That's how I would do it on my boat since that's what I need to sleep at night.
For a 5/8 inch hole which I consider substantial, I would bevel a bit both sides. No 12/1 ratio, but a bevel. 60 grit all surfaces.
Wouldn't use any glass inside, just fill hole with silica thickened epoxy then just paint over bottom with bottom paint.
That's how I would do it on my boat since that's what I need to sleep at night.
Started the project
Just started the project Saturday into Sunday. No one told me how much fun I was going to have. Saturday was a waste of time all I did was clear the snow away that drifted around the boat and start the removal of the access panel to get in the well. Sunday, 2-1/2 hour to get the transducer and fairing off (it was installed with 5200), used a hand saw to remove the 5200 from between the fairing and the hull. Next is the existing hole is 2" not the 1-1/4 I was hoping for. Now I have to fill both the ducer and the antispin bolt holes and drill out new locations to avoid obstructions. Did I mention that the stringers and generator intake are in the way. I guess I was dreaming this would be a straight forward project. The tips on beveling and setting the epoxy are going to be the only easy parts of this job.
Just started the project Saturday into Sunday. No one told me how much fun I was going to have. Saturday was a waste of time all I did was clear the snow away that drifted around the boat and start the removal of the access panel to get in the well. Sunday, 2-1/2 hour to get the transducer and fairing off (it was installed with 5200), used a hand saw to remove the 5200 from between the fairing and the hull. Next is the existing hole is 2" not the 1-1/4 I was hoping for. Now I have to fill both the ducer and the antispin bolt holes and drill out new locations to avoid obstructions. Did I mention that the stringers and generator intake are in the way. I guess I was dreaming this would be a straight forward project. The tips on beveling and setting the epoxy are going to be the only easy parts of this job.
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Moxsea. If you have any issues in regards to the epoxy and glass repair call or email West System technical advice and leave your email and phone. They will call you back and offer excellent step by step advice on the repair. As far as the rest of the work?? Welcome to the world of boating. Have fun and let us know how things progress