The newer 330s have a easily removable access plate for bilge and generator. My 2006 needs to be caulked. I'm wondering if there is any way to modify so my access is like the newer ones or so i dont have to caulk it. Seems like I caulk it and then I need to get back in there. I really like the way the newer boats are set up. Any ideas?
Generator access plate 2006 330 Express
- Thread starter grady33
- Start date
I have a 03 330 and feel your pain about the access plate. I no longer caulk my mine. I use a gasket material that fits around the access hatch. I dont even screw it down it fits pretty tight.This has worked verry well the last couple of years. I havn't had any problems with leaks or any other problems. It is easy to get into and to put back.
jip40
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- Location
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- Express 330
I have a 2002 330 that I purchased in Aug 2011. It too was caulked in and the local service guy removed the caulk to do a service - he said that there was gasket material originally installed and it wasn't necessary to re-caulk. The hatch is secured with 3" screws that push into grommeted holes. I dry store the boat and drain the bilge before having it put back in the barn. I do get some bilge water coming out and assume it is getting in from that hatch, but IMHO that is what the auto bilge switch is there for. I have not seen any water on the generator or other components. :noob
put wax paper on the deck side of the joint and then re-caulk. The caulk will not stick to the boat because of the wax paper. It will, however, stick to the hatch. Remove the hatch, remove the wax paper, then you can put the hatch in with essentially a caulk sealed joint that is removable at anytime.
The gasket material is something I saw in a surplus store. It is round with a sticking backing. Sorry not much of a description.
I like the other suggestgion about using the wax paper. Sounds like it would work well also.
I like the other suggestgion about using the wax paper. Sounds like it would work well also.
I have a 2007 33 and have the same problem. I contacted Grady to see if I could buy the two pieces that make up
the new configuration with the hinges.. According to the email I received they where to contact the engineers to see if it
would fit my 2007. Have yet to hear back from the and its been a month. I'll let you know if and when I receive an answer...
the new configuration with the hinges.. According to the email I received they where to contact the engineers to see if it
would fit my 2007. Have yet to hear back from the and its been a month. I'll let you know if and when I receive an answer...
Please do. It would be great if they could offer that cause it is a real pain to have to keep caulking and un-caulking that opening.
Guys,
For what it is worth, in the past when I have sent questions via email to GW, I would never hear anything back. Granted, I am not the most patient guy in the world. So I took to calling them and they were always very pleasant and helpful on the phone.
Jim
For what it is worth, in the past when I have sent questions via email to GW, I would never hear anything back. Granted, I am not the most patient guy in the world. So I took to calling them and they were always very pleasant and helpful on the phone.
Jim
Well I got a reply from Grady. The long and short is the new configuration does not work on the older boats. They said
it would take major changes to that area. According to them it would leak like a sieve if you where to just install it. So there you have it.
Not the news I wanted to hear. Guess where back to caulking.
it would take major changes to that area. According to them it would leak like a sieve if you where to just install it. So there you have it.
Not the news I wanted to hear. Guess where back to caulking.
Why not add a hatch? I had to add one to my Marlin. I was killing myself changing the fuel water separators so I added a hatch. Since I have not broken the code on how to post pictures, send me your email address and I can email the photos to you. My email is: g0tagrip@bellsouth.net
The 0 is a zero not an ooooooo.
The 0 is a zero not an ooooooo.
Why not make a hatch same as the one you have but with a hatch and gutter. A fiberglass guy could make you one maybe 400-500 bucks?
I have a 2005 model year GW330. I never liked the generator access so I had a local fiberglass shop shape and install a gutter lip around the edge of the deck opening. I attached a "C" gasket to it. I installed two turn latches on the deck hatch (like the ones for the vertical hatch) that pull the hatch down on the gasket. It isn't water tight, but what water that does get in drains into the bilge without getting near the generator. Now accessing the generator is simply a matter of turning two latches and lifting the hatch out. I have pictures. If you are interested, send a private email and I'll forward them.
Would like to see pics of your mod. I just put an offer in on a 2005 Marlin with same problem. Thanks.
I have a 203 265 and had a glass shop convert my access into a hatch with a hinge. Do a search on the site as a few have done the same.
EPPE
EPPE
The area around the genset hatch cover is the wettest part of the boat. All water and all blood and guts from fishing flow there.
My 2006 330 has the sealed cover plate and I like it because:
1. I don't go down into that bilge area often (once every 2 years to change the impellor on the FP genset), and
2. All hinges and rubber gaskets leak. I am confident mine leaks far less than the new design. If it wasn't the wettest part of the boat, I'd think differently!
My 2006 330 has the sealed cover plate and I like it because:
1. I don't go down into that bilge area often (once every 2 years to change the impellor on the FP genset), and
2. All hinges and rubber gaskets leak. I am confident mine leaks far less than the new design. If it wasn't the wettest part of the boat, I'd think differently!