If those thruhull fittings are below waterline, you HAVE to change them to bronze, if not, is up to you, but if it was me and i was there already, i would change them to stainless steel, the plastic ones eventually they will break right where the hose connects to the barb portion of the fitting, the question is when and how serious of situation you are at.
Installing Brass Drain Tubes
- Thread starter mashenden
- Start date
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
That seems like good advice. Thank you. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense - Plastic thru-hulls, if used, are always above the waterline. If anyone has converted their thru-hulls to metal and have a suggested part number (and estimated cost), please let me know.
I believe they're generic but I would measue each one to be sure, I have 3-different sizes. If you're going through all the trouble, I would definately go with 316 SS. I have bronze and they look like crap if you don't keep them polished. My scuppers drain to the sides and I'm trying to figure out some type of drip edge so I don't get the scum line down the hull.
I am thinking about using the Attwood 66553-3 SS Scupper to replace the plastic scuppers that are now below the waterline. They are about $60 a piece.
Does anyone have any better ideas?
Does anyone have any better ideas?
Ok mash we went from brass motor well drains to scuppers right? You motor well drains aren't underwater right? That Attwood scupper is really nice. It's only good for 3" hull; aren't our transoms about that thick? Or, do your scuppers drain to the sides?
Yep, somehow we did go from drain tubes to scuppersTucker said:
although they are not too far removed. You are correct, only the cockpit scuppers are half submerged (due to the heavier 4 stroke). They drain to the stern. The motor well drains are above the waterline. NOTHING ELSE MATTERS made the recommendation that I swap out the plastic scuppers since mine are half submerged. It seems like good advise.
I am thinking the transom is a bit less than 3" since I used 3" drain tubes. Regardless, that does not leave much for the nut to grab. Has anyone else used something better to replace the plastic scuppers that go thru the stern?
I think you're going to have problems installing the Attwood scuppers. I don't believe the pitch of the drain hole and angle of the transom are perfectly perpendicular. You can check by putting a straight edge thru the drain and a straight edge on the transom. The plastic scuppers are flexible and bend. Has anybody put those stainless scupper this style boat?
To quote myself...
Did I say "next week"... HA. I can't believe it has been almost 2 months since I thought I would finish up. As usual, I got side tracked on a few other projects. ADD
Regarding this project, I decided to drill out the screw holes to 3/8" and fill the voids with fiberglass rod and epoxy. This makes it so that if water gets past the screws, it will not get to the wood in the transom. This worked very well.
In summary, the drain holes were drilled out with 3 layers of epoxy applied, then the brass inserts were installed with silicone on the inner part and 5200 on the very ends (idea being 5200 will provide a better seal and the silicone will help keep the water out but will break free if I ever need to remove them again). The flaring tool did the job just fine. I almost did not want to cover them up with new scupper flaps.
fishhrd from West Point, VA: Sorry this took so long but if you still need to borrow the flaring tool, please let me know. I can swing through WP one day, but probably not until after the middle of July, if that works.
mashenden said:
Did I say "next week"... HA. I can't believe it has been almost 2 months since I thought I would finish up. As usual, I got side tracked on a few other projects. ADD
Regarding this project, I decided to drill out the screw holes to 3/8" and fill the voids with fiberglass rod and epoxy. This makes it so that if water gets past the screws, it will not get to the wood in the transom. This worked very well.
In summary, the drain holes were drilled out with 3 layers of epoxy applied, then the brass inserts were installed with silicone on the inner part and 5200 on the very ends (idea being 5200 will provide a better seal and the silicone will help keep the water out but will break free if I ever need to remove them again). The flaring tool did the job just fine. I almost did not want to cover them up with new scupper flaps.
fishhrd said:I have a 2007 222 that I need to install new transom tubes in. Grady sent me the brass thru hulls but I have not put them in yet. I need to get the tool.
mashenden said:Where in VA do you live? I am in Richmond, north near Va Ctr Commons mall and/or Lancaster Co near Lively. I would be glad to loan it (with a refundable deposit, of course
fishhrd from West Point, VA: Sorry this took so long but if you still need to borrow the flaring tool, please let me know. I can swing through WP one day, but probably not until after the middle of July, if that works.
Yeah I would still like to borrow it. The middle of july will be fine. The best way to contact me so I can give you an address is by email at mattvosnick@gmail.com.
Thanks
Thanks