Well I went to the marina today to mess with the boat. I wanted to make sure the bilge pumps were working properly. When I got in there I could smell gas so I cut the panels out and sure enough gas in the bulkhead. Cant tell yet but probably going to need a 93 gallon fuel tank. There is no tank in the rear bulkhead and I already knew that. It looks like I will have to cut some of the lip behind the tank to remove it as it is longer than the opening. Will also replace the fuel fill, gas supply and vent hose's too. So does anyone happen to have a spare 93 gallon tank laying around? Probably not but worth asking. Think I will put a fresh water tank in the rear hatch while it is opened up. Either that or maybe a smaller fuel tank in the rear and just drain the front. She seems bow heavy like she is. I will be posting another thread about auto bilge pumps in a Grady. Boat ownership is awesome. :roll:
May need a fuel tank!
- Thread starter Got Grady?
- Start date
Not much input here let me ask a specific question. If the tank is longer than the opening will i be able to tilt the tank to slide it out. Thinking no that the bottom of the tank will hit the edge of the floor as i try to tilt it. It seems the floor where the two panels meet is reinforced with extra fiberglass so if i cut it back a couple inchs will I be weakening it to much? Anybody replaced this tank and come across this?
You will be able to get the tank out, slide it back and pull up, it's wedged in with wooden wedges and some cross over 2 x 4s. Plenty light as long as fuel is pumped out, tilt up bow when pumping.
Pump gas ior siphon into 6 gallon gas containers, buy a few, and fill your cars and relatives' cars with free gas, then the neigbors cars until used up. Get you some goodwill with neigbors.
I'm thinking between 1 and $1.5K for new tank. Take tank to fabricator to replicate and dispose of.
Replace fuel feed and fill hoses at same time, new deck plates or at the minimum O rings, have to keep water from dripping down onto tank from deck.
Caulk very well floor cover when reinstalling, it's screwed into the tops of the (wooden) stringers and bulkheads.
Pump gas ior siphon into 6 gallon gas containers, buy a few, and fill your cars and relatives' cars with free gas, then the neigbors cars until used up. Get you some goodwill with neigbors.
I'm thinking between 1 and $1.5K for new tank. Take tank to fabricator to replicate and dispose of.
Replace fuel feed and fill hoses at same time, new deck plates or at the minimum O rings, have to keep water from dripping down onto tank from deck.
Caulk very well floor cover when reinstalling, it's screwed into the tops of the (wooden) stringers and bulkheads.
I have a 27 gallon tank and 3 6 gallon tanks which will get me close to empty. May have to get a couple more small ones. I will try to tilt it out but it looks like they left the lip a little longer than normal where the back of the hatch cover sits down. There are 2 cuts already made but they didnt cut across from one side to the other. I wont discard the tank if it is only a couple bad spots. I have done tank removal before in a hydra sports and will know more once the tank clears the decks. The last one I did had a cracked weld and no holes just a few spots of minor corrosion. I had the end cut out and rewelded then gave the tank 2 coats of 2 part primer and 2 coats of 2 part epoxy paint. The stuff worked fantastic and the primer was probably good enough, they were both thick. I was looking at the routing of the fuel fill and vent hoses. That part looks like a nightmare. Any tips on that? Thanks for the input as well.
This is what I dealt with on my last boat, 85 gallon tank. My wife was real happy when I had it on the kitchen table for 2 days. Got pics of that somewhere too.
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This is what I dealt with on my last boat, 85 gallon tank. My wife was real happy when I had it on the kitchen table for 2 days. Got pics of that somewhere too.
Got Grady? said:
You may have to do some serious cutting in order to simply remove the old lines. Looking on the bright side, that will make installation of the new ones all that much easier. To gain access to the hose clamps on the deck fill, I had to cut out a hole big enough to later install a full size deck plate. In the fuel tank compartment, a large rectangular hole had to be cut in the fore and aft running bulkhead, from which the lines were extracted with a come-a-long. The rectangular cut-out was later glassed back into place. If you think yours will be a nightmare, you're probably not too far off. Mine was.
I had a feeling it would be and thanks for confirming it. I think i will make 2 small holes in the end of the new and old hose and using small diameter rope tie them together. This will hopefully pull the new hoses through as the old ones come out. Sounds good in theory anyway.
Scott W.
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93 Gallon Gas Tank
I just replaced my 19 year old original 93 gallon gas tank in my 1991 Seafarer by myself. Replacing the gas lines was easy, except the fill line was a real bitch. The trick is to attach a smaller hose inside the existing fill hose and screw same tightly together so that it won't come apart. Then you attach the replacement fill hose to the smaller hose in the same manner. Then you pull the new hose through the inlet by pulling hard from the side that was attached to the old tank. This is the only direction that worked for me. Warning - do not remove the old fill line unless you follow the above procedure or else you may not be able to install the replacement fill line.
I paid about $750.00 for an exact replica of my old tank, which came with a WEMA sender. In getting out the old tank, there was about 1/4" play on the width of the opening. After siphoning all the gas out and removing all of the wood shims and cross bracings from around the tank, I attached two rachet straps to my hard top supports, slid the straps under the tank and slowly raised the tank up to the deck.
Good Luck.
I just replaced my 19 year old original 93 gallon gas tank in my 1991 Seafarer by myself. Replacing the gas lines was easy, except the fill line was a real bitch. The trick is to attach a smaller hose inside the existing fill hose and screw same tightly together so that it won't come apart. Then you attach the replacement fill hose to the smaller hose in the same manner. Then you pull the new hose through the inlet by pulling hard from the side that was attached to the old tank. This is the only direction that worked for me. Warning - do not remove the old fill line unless you follow the above procedure or else you may not be able to install the replacement fill line.
I paid about $750.00 for an exact replica of my old tank, which came with a WEMA sender. In getting out the old tank, there was about 1/4" play on the width of the opening. After siphoning all the gas out and removing all of the wood shims and cross bracings from around the tank, I attached two rachet straps to my hard top supports, slid the straps under the tank and slowly raised the tank up to the deck.
Good Luck.
Well they must have had a new guy when this one was built. In another post it is said that the plug for the fuel tank lockers is in the rear bilge area. Mine is in the rear fuel tank locker. You said you could lift your tank out. Mine has enough room as far as width but the tank is 2 inchs longer than the opening is long. I can see cut lines length wise into the section between the two compartments but it looks like they just forgot to make a cut width wise to remove that extra 2 inchs. Just my luck, can not wait to see what else is messed up. I was going to use rope and tie the new fuel fill hose to the old fuel fill hose to pull it through but I like your idea too. It will get done for sure. Did you do your vent hose the same way? Oh and where did you get your new fuel fill hose?
Do you think they knew that running those fuel fill and vent hoses would be a bear? I guarantee they did because mine only came with one tank but the fill and vent hoses are run to the second compartment just in case the second tank was added.
Scott W.
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Yes - I replaced the vent hose in the same manner. I purchased all of my new fuel lines and the fill hose from a local marine supply store, Fred Chall Marine in Freeport, NY. Kindly note that the fill hose is a specialty thick and rigid hose, not to mention a very costly one. Before I replaced the fill and vent lines, I consulted with Jeff, a great Customer Service representative at Grady White's main office. He informed me that replacing the fill line on any Grady-White boat is a very difficult task because the hose does not take a straight route to the gas tank.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Scott W.
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The fill hose had to be cut with a metal hack saw to cut through the spiraled steel wire inlay. The exterior surface was not smooth - it had circular grooves to make it more flexible. I believe the cost was about $8/foot.