Where to mount 2 under water lights 86 offshore

[lime4x4]

Where would be a good place to mount 2 5 inch underwater lights?

 

[Fishtales]

My first response was nowhere on a wood cored transom would I mount them.
That being said, it could be a good test if you do put them in as you will see what the coring looks like when you drill.

tx

 

[lime4x4]

I know the wood core is nice and dry yet.. Last winter i had the engine bracket off to be linex'ed. While i had the bracket off i coated the bolt holes with epoxy to keep it dry...lol

 

[DennisG01]

How about mounting them on the trim tabs? If you want them to be on the transom, then I suppose keeping them to the outboard side of the outboards would be best, otherwise the engines would probably block a lot of the light. If you go that route, you could: oversize the hole for the mounting screws (longer than the anticipated screws, too), cover with tape, drill an 1/8"-ish hole above the screw hole and at a steep angle down into the hole, fill with epoxy. By drilling above, you'll be able to keep filling and allowing the epoxy to not only fill the hole, but also to SOAK INTO the surrounding wood. It might actually take a number of "fillings" until the hole stays full and the epoxy stops seeping into the wood.

 

[beachbum]

I have a 336 Canyon and didn't want to drill holes below the waterline. I had fiberglass "blocks" made and each block had a channel cut into the back for the wire to go up towards the top of the transom. I attached the lights to the blocks and screwed the blocks to the boat. I ran the wire out of the top of the fiberglass blocks and brought it into the bilge above the waterline. I filled the screw holes that attached the blocks to the transom with 5200 and filled the above the waterline holes with 5200 and covered the wire entrance holes with SS clam shells (to dress them up) .

Maybe a bit overkill but I figured it would reduce the chance of water getting into transom and, if lights failed, I could replace the lights without digging into the transom (just take them off the blocks)

Much the same idea that some guys do with starboard and their transducers. In this case, starboard wasn't think enough for the light housing.

 

[Strikezone]

If sealed properly you shouldn't have a problem going through the transom. My Grady has scuppers all the way through, trim tabs, etc. I do have a transom block but wouldn't have a problem mounting lights.

 

[DennisG01]

Beachbum - if you really want to overkill it... fiberglass the block to the transom. That way you won't have any screw holes AT ALL going into the transom. As it is right now, you pretty much have the same final outcome as if you simply screwed the accessory directly to the transom.

Be sure to countersink or chamfer any screw holes you make so you don't get spider-cracking or stress-cracking of the gelcoat - especially below the waterline.

Also, any 5200 that is exposed to the sun should be painted or somehow protected. The UV will damage it and cause it to yellow and crack.

One last tidbit... be careful of where 5200 is used. It should ONLY be used in areas that are considered to be 100% permanent and there is no anticipation of EVER having to remove it. The removal process can pull the gelcoat off the fiberglass. In most cases, there are much better options when it comes to sealants.

 

[beachbum]

great suggestions- the 5200 is painted- bottom paint- since its below water, not much sun. I agree, i could have/should fiberglassed them- i wasn't so concerned about making it water tight for the first mount, my concern was mainly ( from transom mounted transducer experience- when the fail, they are a paint remove, replace) what would happen if lights failed and had to be replaced- remove lights; break 5200 seal, now holes are larger,The hole for the light wires would have also had 5200 as it would pass through the transom below the water line- it would have to be drilled out. So i figured beating up the blocks if the lights needed to be changed or if better lights came on the market, the blocks up would be a better alternative. I am not totally paranoid about making holes in the boat ( I already have 5 seacocks and two thru hull transducers) As a side benefit, I was also able to build an angle into the blocks to better direct the lights across the back of the boat and cover more area.
As for removal, I have found that 5200 that is around screws it is pretty easy to break the bond if you use a heat gun before you attack the screws.

But I do agree, fiberglassing the blocks take it one step better, if you truly what to be watertight.