Recent content by GW Miami

If you remove all the batteries, and are small enough, you can get inside the battery hatch area and reach to remove and replace. Using a heat gun to make the hoses softer for removal and install is a must. it is a pain in the ass for only small workers, but you have no hole left behind.

Thanks for posting pictures. It definitely helps with the project specifics and just as important, to build the confidence needed to take on the task / challenge. Greatly appreciated.

I have that in mind as well. I have already purchased a pair of TH Marine backing plates for the top set of bolts, with bolt holes spaced at 12-7/8 inch on center. In addition I’m having a pair of 1/2 inch aluminum backing plates made up for the bottom bolts, with bolt holes spaced at 9-7/8...

Looking at the stainless steel poli I’ve done more research and confirmed the outboards are made of aluminum, so the aluminum spacer can remain as is and there’s no issue with disimilar metals between the outboards and spacer plates. Also choosing 6061 will help with corrosion issues. As for...

This is the short and sweet version of what’s recommended: Quick Reference Chart – Choosing an Aluminum Grade Formability or Workability Corrosion Resistance Alloy 5052 Good Excellent Alloy 6061 Good Excellent Alloy 6063 Good Good Alloy 7075 Poor Average This is the detailed long...

Greatly appreciate the cost input, as it’s tough to guage what’s what when you slap the word Marine in front of anything. I’ve had good luck with a local metal fab shop, but I try too avoid the word Boat / Marine at all costs. Thanks again.

To Greyduk, I never thought about the galvanic issues, as I’ll be on a lift. But that’s a good catch. I was thinking more along the lines of avoiding the use of disimilar metals. I’m assuming the outboards are made of aluminum, but I’m not sure. Looks like a little more research is needed...

That’s my intent, but was thinking of going with aluminum for the angle iron, in order to match the sheet of aluminum spacer I’ll need to account for the added Bang plate thickness, to allow for the outboards to sit flush. On my Sailfish, I only need a straight 5 feet of angle iron, as it’s a...

I need some feedback on my attempt to repair the transom bang plate on my Sailfish. I intend to replace the existing very thin aluminum 1.25 inch x 1.25 inch angle iron, with a larger beefier .125 inch thick, 1.75 inch x 1.75 inch aluminum angle iron, after ensuring that the area underneath the...

That’s them !

It was an exact match to what was found on my 1999 Sailfish. Ask to speak with Mark, as he was very helpful and knowledgeable with older Grady trim specs in general. I found them through this forum and with direct recommendation from Grady themselves. He has old stock of some hard to find...

This is what I ordered: F8252 = Flexible Trim with VHB tape / Creme / 105' coil

Forgot to mention, that when I removed the older vinyl strips, I removed all the left behind residue from the previese adhesive backing and cleaned everything up with good old acetone, to ensure the area was ready to receive the new strips adhesive backing.

It came with an adhesive backing on the vinyl strip.

I replaced all of the vinyl trim on my 1999 Sailfish, with the original product sourced from Barbour Plastics. I had to buy a entire 105 foot roll, as they don’t sell it by foot. I’m keeping the extra material left over, for the future inevitable replacements I will need. I also got the...