Recent content by JDS535

Getting ready to rebuild my transom. A couple of my questions answered. 1. in my boat the stringers are separated from the transom wood by a wall of glass. ( thats a very good thing ) 2. There is no opening in the top of the side sections except where the fuel hose goes through. So, I cut and...

Thanks Fishtales, I was able to save my tank for re-use after all. It was painted, or coated before installation, and the foam was only used in 4 spots with the bottom clear to let water out. There was no outside corrosion on the tank at all but I bent the filler pipe pretty bad taking the...

on my boat the tank sits on 2 stringers and they are 3-4 inches higher in the bow than the stern. Its a 63" long tank. That makes it level with the deck cover.

Hey, how did you make out with your tank? FYI, I have a 1984 Overnighter 20 and just removed my tank. The dimensions match the tank in the PDF you attached except that the filler neck, vent neck and the pickup are all on the same end. I just got the boat and have not used it yet so I am not...

My thinking was, the further up the boat they are, the higher above the waterline they would be. I am assuming that the deck on this model is not level with the water when afloat. I would only gain 4 or 5 inches ( maybe ) towards the bow if I do what you did. But its a simple change. Maybe I...

So, I had another thought on this project and wanted some feedback on it. I saw a video where the owner moved the deck scuppers from the transom to the sides of the boat. It seems like a good idea to get them out of the transom while I am replacing it. One of the threads on this forum talked...

So, the way I understand this with the liquid transom material is that the new material ( Seacast, Carboncore or Arjay ) is the strength of the transom. The skin is just a covering really. But that said, the liquid material bonds to the skin completely anyway so the seam that you cut really...

Hey Crang, Thats great information. That was my concern with seacast. I am looking at Carbon core now because they are supposed to have a cold weather formula and that does not have the fibers in it so it pours easy. I had the same idea to just drill like a 1" hole in the bulkhead on each side...

I looked at 2 websites and it said I needed 4 buckets. $250 each is not too bad. It sounds like this is the better way to go. When I did my Mako I took off the back skin at around 4" inside the corner all around the bottom but I had full access to the top so I just dropped the pcs of plywood...

LOL, update on my plans. So I calculated the Arjay material needed ant it will cost $2000 to use that material. Much more than I was expecting. Seacast would cost about $1100 but with all of the strand fiberglass in it I worry about voids when pouring it. I am now considering using plywood and...

So, I guess I will just open it up from the outside and see what I see.

I have seen a couple guys do it that way, I always wondered if the structural putty would hold.

Thanks, Skunkboat. I watched the Vids. Good stuff. I saw the blowouts on your boat while pouring. I am hoping GW has the transom and the stringers seperated by a layer of glass so I dont have to worry about them. I like the electric chainsaw idea. I cant imagine going at that with my Stihl...

Hello all, I am new to the forum and new to Grady White boats. It has been a few years since I sold my Mako and I and super excited about the 1984 GW Overnighter 20 I just bought. I knew immediately that this boat needed a new transom. There was no motor on the boat and half of that cheap...