With the rear and side blocks out is there enough room to slide the tank to the rear out from under the front blocks and raise the rear of the tank up to remove?
When you get into it check the anti-siphon also if equiped. Had to change one out on my old boat cured the fuel starvation. If I loosended the filter, just crack it, it would release the anti-siphon and it would run again for a while. Get me home.
Fuel tank, engine and transom/hull intigrity would be high on my list. Make sure it is seaworthy and stucture is sound before you get too carried away with the accessories. That's and old girl you have there.
I did the same thing at the end on the '23 season. Went to a smaller skiff type boat. This was my first season with the new boat and it has worked out well. Kingfish was just to much work at this point in my life and like Glaciarbaze the walkaround was becoming problematic. Man's got to know...
Could you post more pictures of the cabin? Been a long time. Does the Pro have the quarter berth to port under the cockpit? Can you do away with the tackle storage area, I think it was to the Port side of the cabin and turn the forward area into a V berth? with a fold down bunk over? IIRC with...
Not really as the deck screws (fuel tank cover) came right out when I replaced my tank. Never tried to remove the screws in the old tank as it had failed. I replaced the the tank with new and purchased a new fuel level sensor so no issues there. Previously I had removed the screws that held in...
Silly question...Are you speking of the screws that hold the deck panel down or the screws in the aluminum tank. On my old boat the screws that fastened tank cover (deck) just went into the stringers. The screws that held the fuel level sender etc. would be another story.
Well perhaps info on where different systems have been mounted with good access etc. and first hand feedback from owners of electric vs hydraulic on a similar model would be useful to the OP.