258 Livewell drain hose replacement

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Stonesplitter

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Wondering if anyone has experience in replacing the livewell drain hose? The existing hose is failing and easy enough to remove at the thru hull fitting but seemingly impossible to remove from the fitting at the bottom of the livewell, can’t reach or see, without cutting a hole through the bulkhead in the auxiliary fuel tank area which I’d like to avoid. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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DennisG01

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On your model, no. But from your pictures, it looks like you can get your left hand on it through that access plate? would it help to cut and install a bigger access plate?
 
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glacierbaze

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Other models, like the 228 and Tournament, have the same sort of seat bases, and have another pie plate on the front, for the fresh water pump. If you have to cut another, measure from the drain to find the closest access point, preferably for your strongest hand. I would hate to be wrestling that old hose with my left.
If you can get your hand under there to put the nut on, another option would be to cut the flange off, and drop the old drain and hose out the bottom, and put in a new drain.
Another option is to just plug that drain, and cut another hole closer to the port side, where you can reach it. The drain won't be recessed, but I could deal with sponging up a little water.
 
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Hookup1

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You can't get a hand on that? I would cut out the drain fitting with a step-bit and replace it with a new one and hose.
 
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Stonesplitter

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glacierbaze said:
Other models, like the 228 and Tournament, have the same sort of seat bases, and have another pie plate on the front, for the fresh water pump. If you have to cut another, measure from the drain to find the closest access point, preferably for your strongest hand. I would hate to be wrestling that old hose with my left.
If you can get your hand under there to put the nut on, another option would be to cut the flange off, and drop the old drain and hose out the bottom, and put in a new drain.
Click to expand...

Hookup1 said:
You can't get a hand on that? I would cut out the drain fitting with a step-bit and replace it with a new one and hose.
Click to expand...
DennisG01 said:
On your model, no. But from your pictures, it looks like you can get your left hand on it through that access plate? would it help to cut and install a bigger access plate?
Click to expand...
Fortunately I’m left handed, I can barely get my hand on the fitting. Unfortunately, the screw on the hose clamp faces the stern and can’t get a screwdriver on it. I bought a 3” angle grinder today to cut the hose clamp off but can’t fit the tool under the livewell to make the cut. I might just have to cut the drain from the inside of the livewell and then try to make any repairs necessary.
 
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You could try a Dremel tool with a fiber cutoff wheel. Small version of what you brought.
www.homedepot.com

Dremel EZ Lock 1-1/2 in. Rotary Tool Mandrel Starter Kit for Metal (6-Piece) EZ406 - The Home Depot

This Dremel EZ Lock Mandrel Starter Kit is a perfect addition for a Dremel rotary tool. Changing cutting wheels is easy thanks to the 1-piece mandrel design which requires no tiny mandrel screws. Dremel
www.homedepot.com

I have had success drilling out plastic thru hulls from the mushroom side with a step bit. May work on your metal one.

www.harborfreight.com

Titanium-Coated High-Speed Steel Step Bit Set, 2-Piece

Amazing deals on this Titanium-Coated Hss Step Bit, 2Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
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family affair

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Stonesplitter said:
Fortunately I’m left handed, I can barely get my hand on the fitting. Unfortunately, the screw on the hose clamp faces the stern and can’t get a screwdriver on it. I bought a 3” angle grinder today to cut the hose clamp off but can’t fit the tool under the livewell to make the cut. I might just have to cut the drain from the inside of the livewell and then try to make any repairs necessary.
Click to expand...
I think you are on the right track.
Cut the drain tube from the inside with a Dremel and drop the entire assembly out the bottom with the hose attached. You can likely install the lower half of the drain from the bottom with the hose attached and thread the mating piece from the top side. Yeah it's a little more work and an extra part, but at least you aren't cutting more holes in your boat.
 
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When I suggested cutting the flange and dropping everything out the bottom, I was thinking that it was like a through hull, with a nut screwed onto the bottom side. Family Affair may have nailed it, if the drain is like the fixture in this attachment, and screws in from the top.
A closer look at your first photo shows two little notches on the inside of the drain, for holding or tightening from the top. Try digging out as much of that sealant around the drain as you can, and see if you can possibly unscrew it. If not, I would cut, drop, and replace with this.

www.boatoutfitters.com

90° Flat Head Drain

Stop searching for the perfect drain for your boat! Get the 90 Flat Head Drain from Boat Outfitters. Shop now for the best selection and prices!
www.boatoutfitters.com www.boatoutfitters.com
 
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glacierbaze

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If you do go that route, here’s an idea, since you can’t reach both sides of the connection at once. When you get ready to install the new one, run a line down through the opening and through the new bottom fixture, and the hose, and tie a big knot. Pull it up snug to the bottom of the hole, drop the top half of the fixture over that end of the rope and thread it into the opening.
 
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DennisG01

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Yes, either the thumbwheel ratchet or a shorti 1/4" drive. The downside is that since the screw faces aft, it makes it even more difficult given the way your hand will be orientated.

Along the lines of cutting the fitting... I'd be replacing that fitting, anyways. Since that is original (aside from the look of the hose, the only way that band clamp was put on was at the factory before the top and bottom of the boat where put together), there's a really good chance it's going to break or crack during all this... or only slightly crack and then you realize it halfway through the season and get to do a "re-do" :mad: I don't mind work... I hate re-do's!!!
 
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fishin trip

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It’s easy to just cut the line take the live well out put the hose on the well and then hook up to fitting on the hull .wile you have it out put a little grease on the levers for wash down and live well
 
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glacierbaze said:
When I suggested cutting the flange and dropping everything out the bottom, I was thinking that it was like a through hull, with a nut screwed onto the bottom side. Family Affair may have nailed it, if the drain is like the fixture in this attachment, and screws in from the top.
A closer look at your first photo shows two little notches on the inside of the drain, for holding or tightening from the top. Try digging out as much of that sealant around the drain as you can, and see if you can possibly unscrew it. If not, I would cut, drop, and replace with this.

www.boatoutfitters.com

90° Flat Head Drain

Stop searching for the perfect drain for your boat! Get the 90 Flat Head Drain from Boat Outfitters. Shop now for the best selection and prices!
www.boatoutfitters.com www.boatoutfitters.com
Click to expand...
This is the solution. Unscrew and remove the piece inside the livewell, the hose on the elbow underneath will keep that from spinning.
The you will be able to bend the hose around and remove it from the elbow thru the port.
Put the new hose on the elbow and line it up under the drain hole in the livewell and screw in the inside piece.

Just like deck drains...
 
Fishtales

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wondering if you cut the drain out of the livewell and glass a new bottom?
 
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