Yamalube 2M 2 cycle oil

ROBERTH

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Has anyone had experience with the oil deteriorating? Not sure what to call it really. Just noticed as I was pouring it into the oil tank, there were some lumps in it. I stopped and got a funnel with a screen filter. It clogged up immediately. Upon more investigation, the oil has a lot of what looks like crystals or seperation and oil lumping like maybe sludge.
This oil was purchased in Jan. 24 and I store in the garage.
I have never had this issue before when I used to use Pennsoil synthetic and semi synthetic, then switched to Amsoil, no issues, then went to Yamalube due it claimed lower ash content therefore less carbon on the O2 sensors which is the issue with the HPDI's.

So, I will be switching back to the Amsoil now that this has occurred. Losing 2 cases of the Yamalube as result of this issue!
 
No, I haven't see that before. Odd.

But when you say "lower ash"... was that in comparison to Penn Synthetic... or just a general comment? Reason being, I have found that Penn smokes noticeably less than Yama. Evinrude XD100... even less.
 
Unable to return as I got it online from Domo.
I used the pennzoil for a few years and had a lot of carbon fouling the O2 sensor. Less with the Amsoil, but it was not as good as the yamalube regarding the carbon issue. I will just know to service the 02 sensor every season, approx 100 hrs. I just don’t trust the yamalube anymore.
 
Check the other containers. I would call Domo and Yamaha customer service.

Is this coming out of the Yamaha bottle or in your oil tank?


AI Overview

Yamalube oil showing crystals, separation, or sludge is often carbonized, unburned oil and fuel mixture from the exhaust, especially after long storage or idling, and is not necessarily a problem with the oil itself. However, if you find milky or sludgy oil by draining the gearbox, this indicates water contamination, which requires a lower unit inspection and repair for a faulty seal. Check your engine's fuel/oil mixture and consider running the engine at higher speeds to burn off the accumulated exhaust sludge.

Sludge in the Exhaust (Normal)

  • Cause:
    This black, oily sludge is a mixture of oil and carbon that builds up in the exhaust system and can get washed out. It's common if the engine has been idling for extended periods or has a faulty oil pump.
    • Run the engine: Hard running or a good period of operation at higher speeds can help burn off the accumulated carbon and oil.
    • Check your mixture: Ensure you are using the correct fuel/oil ratio (e.g., 50:1) and not running the engine "rich".
    • Inspect for leaks: If the sludge seems to be coming from the lower unit instead, it could indicate a leak in the seal, according to Louisiana Sportsman.
Milky or Separated Gearbox Oil (Problem)
  • Cause:
    If you see milky-looking oil after draining the lower unit, this means oil and water have mixed due to condensation or a leak.
    • Check for leaks: The lower unit seal is likely the culprit, so inspect it for any damage or corrosion.

    • Flush and refill: You may need to flush the lower unit to remove water and then refill it with the proper gear oil.
Other Potential Issues
  • Water in fuel:
    .

    Old or contaminated fuel can cause the oil mixture to separate, leading to issues.

  • Faulty oil pump:
    .

    If the engine's oil pump is stuck open or misadjusted, it can result in too much oil being mixed with the fuel, causing excess exhaust residue.

  • Crankcase seal leak:
    .

    A leaky crank seal could be allowing gearbox oil to be sucked into the crankcase.

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This is all new out of the bottle as I am refilling the remote tanks. I usually have to add 1 gallon to each tank after each offshore trip.
 
AI seems to think the oil can go bad!

AI Overview

Crystals or sludge in a fresh container of Yamalube 2-stroke oil usually indicates the oil has gone bad due to contamination, moisture, or age, and it should not be used. Check your oil supply, and if you see any particles, separation, or it looks hazy or significantly darker than usual, it's a sign the oil has lost its effectiveness. This can lead to engine problems, so always use fresh, properly mixed oil to ensure your 2-stroke engine runs efficiently.
  • Oil can degrade over time, causing additives to separate from the base oil, leading to the formation of sludge or crystals.

 
Thanks for the intel about this. Been boating for over 50 years and never heard of oil going bad like this. Learn something new! Not to mention losing over $300 in the old oil. Amsoil on the way. Might need to pull the floor and clean the remote tanks and change their filters. That will be fun!
 
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Had the same issue with Yamlube some of it made it into the oil tank and clogged my inline oil filter the next time I was out on the water. That day of fishing I had to manually fill the engine oil reservoir. I was planning on switching to Pennzoil but now you are making me rethink the idea. So your experience is that Yamalube is better for the o2 sensor? I clean mine every 2 seasons only use Yamalube.
 
Timcan, after a lot of trials with oil each season, it seems the yamalube had less carbon buildup in the O2 sensor chamber. But, in the end, still has enough carbon to warrant cleaning every 100 hours or sooner if startup idle starts to suffer.
I prefer the Amsoil over all oils due to its superior quality. Amsoil is the near the same price as the yamalube if you join the Amsoil annual membership and shipping is free.
 
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A mis adjusted oil pump linkage can also cause o2 fouling. The linkage check and possible adjustment should be included in the normal maintenance cycles.
 
I have not seen fresh oil like mentioned. I have seen the remote tank with sludge settling to the bottom. I am not sure what causes the buildup but it happens in some cases. It takes a while for the sludge to develop.
I am also not sure if switching from non synthetic to synthetic and visa versa is advised. Maybe it is, I would investigate.
Regardless If I purchased oil in standard OEM packaging and it had clumps when pored into a funnel, I would stop using it, and make a stink with the vendor.

May I asl if the filter funnel was clean when used?
 
Hi Seasick, many posts about the carbon issues over the years. Oil pump linkages are correct. Even saving a lot of oil since I finally got them right. The O2 sensor issue is inherent with 2 strokes overall being a pita. HPDI's especially.
I have never used a filter funnel over the years as new oil was as expected, clear and clean. As mentioned, this is something very new to experience and very unexpected. When I got the funnel with the filter screen from my shed, it is like new and I even wiped it down with a clean towel and blew the screen and filter with my air compressor to make sure it was clean. I then wrap it with a clean towel to store it in the boat now. I am very anal on making sure the fluids are clean so I don't get any contamination. Example is using the 2 micron fuel filters and changing every 100 hours to make sure the HPDI's injectors stay clean and functioning properly.
Bottom line here, I purchased oil Jan. 24 and vendor will not do anything about it now as it is over a year and a half later.
Switching oils has not been any issue as they are all compatible.
I have had 2 offshore trips since some of the first contaminated oil was poured into the reservoir tank and have been watching the oil sensor status on the gauges when running to see if it was showing any issue. So far, it is ok, but I am suspecting it can become a problem after more of the oil is consumed and more of the particles collect in those tiny filters.
Thanks for the feedback and thoughts! I now know my mission forward.
P.S. The oil normally would not age this long, but in last 2 seasons, I have since retired, moved and between new family needs and/or crappy weather and health issues at times, I made it out only once last year and so far this year only twice.
Taking the boat to A&J this week to get new canvas and after that, will do my best to get out for some wahoo trips before winter hits. ;)
 
Got it. Unusual for sure. Enjoy your retirement and be well.
 
Thanks Seasick for the kind words! Definately enjoying the retirement phase!

Just for kicks, I pulled the 1 gallon jug of emergency 2 stroke oil out of the cabin. It is one of the last gallons of Pennzoil that I used to use which is Semi synthetic. Not for sure how old it is, but looks like the date stamp say 19JUN17, So if it is 2017 or 2019 oil, we are talking 6-8 years old, stored in the cabin in heat and cold in winter. I just poured it into a clean container using my paint strainer filter and it was pure with no residue, clumps, lumps or granules.
I think that either the Yamalube, which is not semi or full synthetic to my knowledge might be the difference with a synthetic blend or full synthetic? Dunno, but for sure moving off the Yamalube. Just more info for ya'll to be aware of....
 
You could add Ringfree to your fill ups - it makes a noticeable difference in things like the O2 sensor and barbell - so I'm sure it helps keeps injectors and such cleaner, too.
 
Hi Dennis, I should have mentioned. I use ring free plus and startron religiously.
HPDI’s are just notorious for O2 carbon buildup.
 
Hi Dennis, I should have mentioned. I use ring free plus and startron religiously.
HPDI’s are just notorious for O2 carbon buildup.
That's exactly what I do (RF + Startron), as well, Robert.

Are HPDI's worse with carbon buildup than OX66's (which is what I have). I honestly don't know - I just would have assumed HPDI's were the same or better.
 
Hi Dennis, not sure about the OX66's, but for the HPDI's, the only side affect I know of is low idle on cold startup. Usually they should fire up to 600 or 700 rpms once started. They also when started will have a quick short rev up and settle the the 600/700 rpm idle.
When O2 is carboned up, it will only come up to 400-600, sometime requiring restarts to get them going, else when going, rev up while still on the trailer once backed in and put in gear, rev up and hold for a moment until they get cleared up a bit/warmed up a bit, then they will idle normally. A minor issue, but nonetheless, isn't right regarding perfection.